A better way to oil your machines.

JimSchroeder

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I have found that oiling my machines was a nuisance. I used a squeeze bottle type oiler with an “O” ring sealer to force oil into the Git fittings on my lathe and milling machine. The bottle weeps oil around the top and eventually that oil ends up on the surface of where ever the oiler is stored. Over the years I have tried other solutions to the problem but they all have their share of problems. In this months Home Shop Machinist there was an article by Alan Anganes on refurbishing an old oil pump he had come in possession of. He modified his oiler to work on Zerk fittings and actuated it via a foot peddle. I liked the basic concept of more useable oiler and since I did not have one to modify I decided to make one.

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Photo #1 – Completed oiler mounted next to the lathe.

I constructed my oiler from scrap that I had from other projects and hence am not providing any specific dimensions since I expect that others whom desire to make one will probably do likewise. I started by using a short piece of 1 ½” galvanized water pipe for the body. I finished off the outside and inside to provide a clean surface to work with. On one end (the bottom end) I threaded a 32 TPI thread which will hold the base piece in place.

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Photo #2 – Machining the body from a piece of water pipe.

The piece of stock in photo #2 is cut to length, I finished one half of the outside in this position and then reversed the piece to finish the other half.
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Photo #4 – Base piece with check valves and pump piston installed. I used a large "O" ring to seal the body and base joint.

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Photo #5 - The hose barb is machined from a piece of 1” diameter brass and contains a recess for the check valve. The “O” ring surrounding the check valve fits into a recess in the hose barb flange. The flange is held against the base with 2 #4 x 40 screws.

I used a piece of 12L14 for the base making the outside diameter to match the body diameter and the threading step to match the inside diameter of the body plus the amount needed for the threads.

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Photo #6 – Check valve, ball from a thrust bearing, spring from a ball point pen.

The check valves were made from a piece of 0.250” brass rod, the ball is from a thrust bearing and is 0.1875” in diameter, the spring is part of a spring from a pen and the brass collar holds everything together. You want just enough spring pressure to hold the ball against the seat and no more. The check valves are press fit into the base.

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Photo #7 – Piston and handle.

The piston has a protrusion on the end which serves two purposes, first it is a positive stop and second it reduces the volume of the pump chamber. The volume was calculated so that one stroke of the pump would provide about the amount of oil you would want for a single fitting. Trial and error was the method used to arrive at this value. The grooves in the piston hold “O” rings (0.375” x 0.0625”). The piston bore was drilled undersize and finished with a chucking reamer. The 12L14 provides a very good finish and with two “O” rings to seal the pump I would not expect any leakage.
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Photo #8 – Machining the Git fitting from a piece of 3/8” brass. Note the adapter made from a piece of scrap aluminum that holds the fitting at a 45 degree angle.

I needed the adapter to fit against the Git fitting at an angle since there are several fittings that are not open to a straight fitting. Using a 3/8” piece of brass rod I drilled 0.093” for 1.5”. I then machined the hose barb to a diameter of 0.190, the hose is OD .250” and ID of 0.1875 clear vinyl.

Looking closely at photo # 9 you will see a 2 x56 brass screw protruding into the opening of fitting, this is to depress the Git check ball making it somewhat easier to fill with oil.

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Photo #9 – The finished Git oiler adapter fitting.

As shown in the first photo I mounted the unit over the lathe and put a 5 foot piece of hose on it which is more than enough to reach all of the lathe fittings. The “O” ring on the Git adapter does a good job of keeping the oil where it is supposed to be and not allowing it to run all over the adjacent areas. I use Mobil #2 Vactra way oil for my spindle bearings as well as the other areas requiring lubrication. The reservoir holds about 5 ounces which should last several months. I oil the spindle and bed ways each day of use.

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Photo #10 – The top is turned from a piece of 12L14 and 0.405” hole is through drilled at a 45 degree angle to hold the Git adapter when not in use and allows any oil in the fitting to drain back into the reservoir.

Jim

Finished unit.jpg Oiler body.jpg Oiler body 2.jpg Base and pump.jpg Base and hose barb.jpg Check valve.jpg Pump piston and handle.jpg Machining the Git fitting.jpg Finished Git fitting.jpg Mounted unit.jpg
 
Way to go Jim, I am impressed. That is a really fine piece of work. The workmanship is fantastic. I have the same problem with the oilers on my import lathe but haven't the time for a solution as nice as that....yet. Maybe after I retire, that is, if I get to.

Patrick
 
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Photo #6 – Check valve, ball from a thrust bearing, spring from a ball point pen.

The check valves were made from a piece of 0.250” brass rod, the ball is from a thrust bearing and is 0.1875” in diameter, the spring is part of a spring from a pen and the brass collar holds everything together. You want just enough spring pressure to hold the ball against the seat and no more. The check valves are press fit into the base.

Jim

Question about the check valve ...

Is that the 'check valve' that is in the pump as part of the piston\pump assembly or is that one of the check valves that would go into the end of each line to keep gravity from pulling the oil down the line and into the fitting ... i.e. preventing the oil from just running down hill and out of the lines, albeit slowly, even if not pumped?

Arvid
 
Hi Arvid, the check valves are mounted in the base with a press fit. The top valve limits the return of oil to the reservoir during the pressure stroke. The output check valve is pressed into the bottom of the base and protrudes into the brass hose barb body that mounts on the bottom. This picture should give you a better idea of this arrangement.
Base and check valves.jpg







































Jim

Base and check valves.jpg
 
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