90 degree V Twin build

Thanks Cadillac you are too kind

I made some cylinder base gaskets and installed the cylinders and the lifter bushings.

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Bored out the inside of the pistons with a 5/16" end mill.
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I also roughed out the connecting rods.
I hope they are the right length as I checked and rechecked all measurements at least 4 times.
I am shooting for a 6.7 to 1 compression ratio.
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I also spent 2 hours cleaning up the shop and the machines for the third time on this project.
There sure was a lot of swarf.

Thanks for looking
Ray
 
The connecting rods have a brass inserts on each end.
I drilled a 1/4' hole in each rod end to locate the center distance for the bushings.
The rod bolt holes are drilled next #6 X 32 for the rod cap bolts.
Then I milled off a slot on each side for the rod cap for the bolt heads and then I cut the cap off using a hand saw.
Tap the holes in the rod and enlarge the cap holes and reassemble.
Now I drill out the 1/4" hole to match the outer land of the brass bushing and install the bushing in the rod.
This shows how I make the rod end bushings and cut them in half.

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After the bushing is cut in half and reassembled on the rod the inside of the bushing is reamed to the rod journal size.

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Drilling the piston wrist pin holes in the piston.

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The small end of the rod has a 5/16" brass bushing pressed in with a hole for the wrist pin.
This is the completed rod piston assembly and the other installed in the block.

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Well I was shooting for 6.5 to 1 compression ratio but it ended up right at 7 to 1.
Just 0.015 in overall length of the stack up makes a difference.
I am very happy with the way the crank turns smoothly through all 360 degrees of rotation as that is not always the case.
The connecting rod bolts miss the lower frame by about 0.040 as that was another area of concern for me.
I will disassemble the engine now and make the oil pan and side covers.

I still need to figure out how the engine will be mounted and where to put the feet. (any ideas?)

Thanks for looking

Ray
 
Really coming together. 7 to 1 compression ratio should be fine.
 
I'm curious about the wrist pin. Would you please tell a bit about that part? How is it made? What holds it in place, press fit??
Thanks!
 
After looking through my stock of small small round steel I found I didn't have the size that I wanted for the wrist pin. I had 1/8" and 1/4", one being too small and the other being too big.
Over the years I have salvaged many pieces from worn out electric motors and many are held together with long steel rods of different diameters. I found one of them the size that I liked and drilled the rod end bushing for a slip fit. The piston was drilled just a little smaller but really not a press fit. I cut the rod to length and tapped it almost all the way through the piston with the connecting rod in place. A drop of red Loc-tite on the pin still sticking out and another drop on the other side of the piston and then finish tapping the wrist pin into place.
You have to be careful not to use too much Loc-tite as you may end up with the connecting rod stuck to the piston. (yes I have done that)
Sorry I didn't take a picture of the connecting rod with the brass bushing for this engine but here is one from a different engine I built a while back.

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Ray
 
The last couple of days I have been making covers.
Two side covers, one cam cover, one oil pan cover and two motor mount plates. The plates attach to the side covers with the bolt heads inside the engine.
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All of those covers need gaskets cut for them and this shows how I do it.
Sorry the picture doesn't show this too well but if you look closely you can see where some have been cut.
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Its called a drag knife and it cuts very nice gaskets on the CNC mill. I mounted a vacuum box on the mill table to hold the material and with the mill motor shut off it drags a blade to cut the gaskets. I tried cutting some with a scissors once but that was a disaster.

I cut the grooves for the piston o-rings and assembled all the pieces I have done so far.
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And a view from the bottom.
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The crank shaft even turns and the pistons go up and down so I must have done something right.

Thanks for looking

Ray
 
The cedar base is the from the donor engine so why not use it.
I made 4 standoffs and mounted the engine.

Front view
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Rear view
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Side View
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With all the covers in place there is no way to check or add oil to the engine.
So an oil dip stick that doubles as a port to add oil.
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I added 30 ml of engine oil and ran the engine over with my drill for a few minutes. I then took the cam cover off and confirmed that the oil was being dispersed through out the interior. I don't know where the oil level should be and too much is not good so I will start at 30ml and see how it works.
Shortly after that I discovered I had an oil leak. It is either from one of the side covers or the pan gasket but that investigation will have to wait for another day.

Thanks for looking

Ray
 
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