90 degree V Twin build

[Jubil]

34_40 I learn something new every day because of my wife's diligence. .
Her job is to make sure I understand that she is never wrong and I am rarely right.

Ray

I can relate.
Chuck

 

[34_40]

34_40 I learn something new every day because of my wife's diligence. .
Her job is to make sure I understand that she is never wrong and I am rarely right.

Ray

And that is why they are called by "She Who Must Be Obeyed!" LOL

 

[rdean]

There was no room left in the other display cabinets so I made a new cabinet for this engine and some other model parts.



I am still thinking about the oil problem in the engine but I needed some time away from that as I am waiting for an inspiration.

Thanks for looking
Ray

 

[rdean]

It has been about 9 months since my last post for this engine but I haven't stopped thinking about the oil problem. I have been working on this when time permits so I will bring you up to speed quickly.

This is what I have decided to do.
Just don't have any oil.


This is a needle bearing with end seals that I will pack with grease for the connecting rod bearings. I think there will be enough blow by to lubricate the cam, lifters, and cam gears with out any oil in the engine. I even left the oil pan off so I could monitor any drippings out the bottom. In order to use these bearings that means I will have to make another crankshaft and it will have to be one that is made of pieces. The bearings will be installed when the crank is assembled and won't be able to be removed without disassembling the crank. Well I haven't had a lot of luck making a built up crankshaft but I do have some new ideas.
I started with a piece of round steel that I drilled holes for the main shafts, the rod throws, and for alignment pins.


I then cut it into three equal parts.


Here I am grinding a rod that I will use for the needle bearings.



And this shows the buildup with the alignment pins and the bearings installed.


The rod throws are a press fit with loc-tite for a little extra hold. As you can see there are no main shafts but rather they are short ends pressed in later. I made then from 0.625 stock so I would have enough meat to turn them down in the lathe as they definitely would not run true with just pressing them in.
This is how it worked out in the three jaw with the alignment pins removed.


And very light passes to get down to the desired diameter.


And the trued up assembly.


More later.

Thanks for looking

Ray

 

[rdean]

To remove some weight and allow for a future feature I milled off most of the round disks on both sides.


And got this.



Another reason I went with needle bearings was because of a misconception I had about brass bushings. I have been having problems with most of my other models that after a couple of hours running time no matter how much I lubricated them the connecting rod bearing was wearing egg shaped and would start knocking. I put it off to an original poor fit but after doing some research I realized I was using the wrong material. I should have been using bronze and not brass for the connecting rod bearings. Lesson learned and I will be replacing the other brass bearings with bronze when they start to fail.

I was able to use the original connecting rods by just enlarging the throw end of the rod.
The connecting rod clamps around the outside of the needle bearing.


To further strengthen the crank shaft I installed tapered steel pins which were hammered in to expand the pin and make for a strong bond. I also added some loc-tite for good measure. The pins are not expensive but the tapered reamer is so great care was used when tapering the holes.


I then cut off the ends of the pins as close as possible and ground them smooth with the crank.
This shows the crank installed in the engine block.



Thanks for looking
Ray

 

[rdean]

I have made many changes to the engine over the past few months chasing the idea of a slow running engine. Some of the changes have helped and others not so much. This is one that should help to smooth things out and slow the engine down.


Completed and painted.


I had a 5" diameter flywheel on the engine that weighed 3lbs 9ozs. The new flywheel is 8" in diameter and weighs 6lbs 4ozs. I should be able to get below 1200 rpms now. I also have 4lbs of cast iron shavings if anyone is interested.

Thanks for looking
Ray

 

[rdean]

This is the engine as it stands now with the 8" flywheel.


The intake system has been completely changed from copper piping to plastic tubing.
The inside diameter of the tubing is 3/16" to keep the intake as small as possible for a better fuel mix.
You can actually see the fuel vapor going to the cylinders when running but it is hard to film.

To recap
2 cylinder 90 degree V engine
180 degree crankshaft
ball and needle bearings on crankshaft and connecting rods
8" flywheel
smaller diameter intake system
better cooling fans
and
NO OIL IN THE ENGINE

I have ran the engine for approximately 2 hours in 15 minute runs. I opened up the top of the engine to see if the innards were getting lubricated. Everything was covered with a thick film of blow by (oil and gas mix) so no problem there. I have noticed some drops under the engine as well but just a few as there is no bottom cover oil pan on the engine..
All the changes have made the engine more reliable with less vibration and some what slower running. I think I have gone about as slow as possible for this engine design.

Thanks for looking and following along
Ray

 

[Canuck75]

savarin and 34_40 I bow to your request and will leave them polished.

I have been gone for a couple of days to south Florida but I was able to make some progress today.
I installed the hall sensors and made a magnet disk.
View attachment 374628

View attachment 374629

Installed
View attachment 374630

I will be using two of these ignition modules one for each cylinder.
View attachment 374631

The electrical system is all done and tested. The timing is just set close for now.

The cooling fans are next.
This shows milling one of the fan pedestals.
View attachment 374632

Thanks for looking
Ray

Ray, really enjoying your builds.
Am presently working on a boxer 2 cycle which will have electronic ignition and would like to ask what diameter that you have the trigger magnet on. Spark ignition is all new to me so am trying to understand it all.
Any info would be appreciated.

Thanks
Dave

 

[rdean]

It depends which type and size of magnet is used and how closely it passes the sensor.
A rare earth magnet will require a larger diameter disk to trigger the hall sensor correctly with out locking it on. Hall sensors do vary as to their sensitivity to magnet fields also.
I have used a 1/4" rare earth magnet on a 2" diameter disk with a passing gap of about 1/8" that worked fine but this same disk used on another model with a different hall sensor required a little over 1/4" to operate correctly.
Sorry I can not be more specific but there are many variables involved.

Ray

 

[Canuck75]

It depends which type and size of magnet is used and how closely it passes the sensor.
A rare earth magnet will require a larger diameter disk to trigger the hall sensor correctly with out locking it on. Hall sensors do vary as to their sensitivity to magnet fields also.
I have used a 1/4" rare earth magnet on a 2" diameter disk with a passing gap of about 1/8" that worked fine but this same disk used on another model with a different hall sensor required a little over 1/4" to operate correctly.
Sorry I can not be more specific but there are many variables involved.

Ray

Thanks Ray. Am reading all the info I can find and your input will help.

Dave