220 vs 110

The compressor guy should have started a new topic. It would be normal for the lights to dim if you put the lights on the same circuit as a 1 horse motor. Even a half horse motor will cause a slight dimming in lights if you put it on the same circuit. And Compressors are one of the machines that has a very high starting load. Motors should have their own circuit, whether 110 or 220. If in your case, if that is not possible then you will have to put up with dimming lights. That is just the nature of the beast. If your light are on separate circuits and they are still dimming the lights, then you have overloaded the panel, or your service wires are too small.
 
Don't understand the comments concerning compressors. Nobody mentioned compressor problems, only used them as examples of how switching from 220 to 110 can cause problems, even when 110 "should" work. I was not overloading the motor, the breaker or the wires. My problem was solved by lower the operating pressures. I think the other poster did the same. I am not going to rewire my house when a screwdriver will solve the problem.

Bill
 
The fellow with the air compressor should listen to Tony as it sounds as the compressor is trying to start against head pressure.

Else go with refinery Mike as he is right on track. He and I went to the same school to learn the trade. Can't say where the rest of you picked it up.
 
So it's no fair to simply turn the max pressure down to, oh say, 115 from 150?

I'm getting the distinct impression that if we don't do it your way, we're doing it wrong.

Bill
 
Bill you do whatever you want. It's yours. We're just saying that we think there could be a problem with the way it is operating now that may shorten it's life and probably should be looked into. If there is an unloader problem, you are simply masking the symptoms, not really fixing it.
 
stern said:
Not really sure about how the utilities charge for power (I know they list as KWH, but their meters read current, so I can only assume the KWH rating is the current used times a fixed voltage which is probably 110), but I will run anything I have on 220 if given the choice. Running 220 uses less current and makes most motors happier (less heat), plus does reduce the wire size for a given"appliance" as well as the needed breaker size. Wont really reduce your 110 load as all 110 feeds are just 1/2 of the main feed (220) referenced to a neutral line.
If it were me and I had 220 wiring option on a machine I would do it (thats why I used a 220 motor on my mill project)
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The only atvantage to 220V is that the wire size can be smaller, and any controlls such as switches can be sized for the lesser amperage that the 220 volt connection affords. The motor does not care which voltage is supplied to it, as the manner in which the leads are connected for one voltage or the other give the same voltage to the windings in the motor in either case; if you have the motor connected for either voltage and have wiring and controlls appropriatly sized there will be no difference in the preformance of the motor or cost of operation.
 
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