2020 POTD Thread Archive

@GoceKU - I really have to admire the quality and thoroughness of your work. You make it both functional and good looking, and I'm sure you'll be proud of it every time you make use of it. Thanks again for showing us how it's done!
Thank you for the kind words, i'm a big believer if your making something make it right the first time.
 
Knocked this out for a brother-in-law. He uses some kind of special paper product for his art projects that comes on a 24” wide roll and that needs to be rolled out and adhered (I think) in a controlled fashion. So he came up with this idea and I just provided the wherewithal to make it. Three inch diameter ABS sewer pipe with a couple modified end caps and cap screws for pivots. Had a couple short blocks of UHMW that were perfect for bearing blocks too, and the pine board had been in my rack for for a few years already just waiting to be repurposed.

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The roller assembly just lifts off the bearings to load his paper, and it can be easily clamped or unclamped from his table when it’s not needed. And everything looks better with a couple coats of varnish...

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Thanks for looking.

-frank
 
Read some posts on how usable the basic swing-type drill sharpeners are so decided to grab one a while back. Made this simple mount for it. The black part is steel so I can stick it on the surface grinder mag chuck. Made a 3/4" rail for it so I can also use in the belt sander. The sander seems to work decent, but I hear its not ideal. Also was a chance to give cold bluing a try. A quickie project; nothing special.

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Definitely a fan of the sharpener itself; not bad for the price and can knock out a totally shot drill in under a minute. The heels were knocked down by hand.
 
Today after putting a 16 hour at work i got home and seen some of the bad spots that i've missed yesterday in smoothing the inspection pit, i fix them. Also i bought some steel tubing to make the steps and when i unloaded them i figured out i'm short by one metre on the big thing, probably mistake in communication, so i need to go and get it before i can start. I also bought some flat steel for the pit drain and for reinforcement in steps of the ladder.
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Cannot wait to see what you have in mind. I am amazed at how thorough, and quick you get things done. I'm still looking at and thinking about the several dozen projects I have started over the years.

Great job
 
Still unpacking stuff from long term storage. It's a long row to hoe with my junk. This week I sorted and organized 400 lbs worth of welding rod. That's a lot of $12 tubes, maybe I'd better plan a long-term solution.
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Still unpacking stuff from long term storage. It's a long row to hoe with my junk. This week I sorted and organized 400 lbs worth of welding rod. That's a lot of $12 tubes, maybe I'd better plan a long-term solution.

Long time ago when i had only a buzz box (stick welder) i bought 0,5m PVC pipes, like used in sewage, and stacked them, i used them for welding rod storage, it was cheap and worked very well, i used 50mm for stenless, 70mm for 7018s and 100mm pipes for 6013 so i can just grab a electrode without looking.
 
I made a tap today. More like a clean-up tap if there is such a thing and not to cut metal but dried oil.

I’m working on an old Singer Model 27 that needs some TLC. By the serial number it was made around 1909 but for the last forty years or so has belonged to one of my older sisters. I know she never used it and maybe had intentions of fixing it up, I don’t know, but that ship has sailed and it’s here at my place for some rehab.

The tap comes into play for cleaning out two threaded holes in the bed casting. The holes are for fixing one of the supplementary attachments and almost never used, so consequently they get filled with bits of lint and then somebody thinks they’re oiling holes so puts a few drops of oil in there, etc etc. And after a hundred years the oil turns to varnish reinforced with lint and it’s impossible to get a screw in there anymore.

So why make a tap? Because the holes are smaller than a #8 but larger than a #6, and I couldn’t see a #7-40 tap within easy reach from anywhere else. Besides, it only needs to de-gunk the existing threads so I figured I didn’t need a real cutting tap.

I used some W1 rod I had in the rack and copied the 0.140” major diameter from the thumbscrew belonging to my own machine, then turned the threads to 40 tpi .

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I was originally going to cut the gullets using a small slotting saw but decided to just use the corner of a regular end mill instead. There’s obviously no relief on the trailing edges of the threads but I thought it would still do what I wanted. I had also thought that I wouldn’t need to use a handle with it but after the first attempt I brought it back down to the shop and milled a turning square on the end.

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And here’s the finished effort. Works great, fits the holes very nicely and runs nice and smooth so I know it’s not removing any metal, just the dried gunk. And all that for two holes. But hey, that’s what we do, right?
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Thanks for looking!

-frank
 
I made a tap today. More like a clean-up tap if there is such a thing and not to cut metal but dried oil.

I’m working on an old Singer Model 27 that needs some TLC. By the serial number it was made around 1909 but for the last forty years or so has belonged to one of my older sisters. I know she never used it and maybe had intentions of fixing it up, I don’t know, but that ship has sailed and it’s here at my place for some rehab.

The tap comes into play for cleaning out two threaded holes in the bed casting. The holes are for fixing one of the supplementary attachments and almost never used, so consequently they get filled with bits of lint and then somebody thinks they’re oiling holes so puts a few drops of oil in there, etc etc. And after a hundred years the oil turns to varnish reinforced with lint and it’s impossible to get a screw in there anymore.

So why make a tap? Because the holes are smaller than a #8 but larger than a #6, and I couldn’t see a #7-40 tap within easy reach from anywhere else. Besides, it only needs to de-gunk the existing threads so I figured I didn’t need a real cutting tap.

I used some W1 rod I had in the rack and copied the 0.140” major diameter from the thumbscrew belonging to my own machine, then turned the threads to 40 tpi .

View attachment 344154

I was originally going to cut the gullets using a small slotting saw but decided to just use the corner of a regular end mill instead. There’s obviously no relief on the trailing edges of the threads but I thought it would still do what I wanted. I had also thought that I wouldn’t need to use a handle with it but after the first attempt I brought it back down to the shop and milled a turning square on the end.

View attachment 344155
View attachment 344156
View attachment 344157

And here’s the finished effort. Works great, fits the holes very nicely and runs nice and smooth so I know it’s not removing any metal, just the dried gunk. And all that for two holes. But hey, that’s what we do, right?
View attachment 344158

Thanks for looking!

-frank

Great job Frank.
Judging by the paintwork it looks like a beautiful machine.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Yeah it is, and considering how old it is that’s saying something. Shuttle bobbin machine though so might not have seen much work once the rotary bobbins came in. The newer design was more reliable, less hang ups, and had reverse stitching feed.

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