2018 POTD Thread Archive

I'm working on another project for a mill-head power lift https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/power-z-conversion-for-pm45.69552/ and need to cut some gears. The gear cutters I'm using are 22mm ID and my existing gear cutter arbor is 1" so.... time to make a 22mm gear cutter arbor.

This is made from 1117 which I really don't care for. Its strong yet cuts like butter but always gives that dull matte finish. Anyhow, here are a few action shots.

Oh BTW, this one is reversible and can be used with 1" or 22mm gear cutters.

1" on one end. 22mm on the other. Just need to make different spacers.
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Key slot. Gotta have a key for gear cutting or that cap won't stand a chance.
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Here's a poor-mans "broach" for the keyway in the spacer. I have a broaching kit but really didn't feel like messing with it. This is quick, dirty and perfectly effective for the intended purpose.
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All the pieces for 22mm setup. The clearance between the shaft and ID of the cutter is well under a thou. You don't want a sloppy fit or it will give uneven wear on the cutting teeth.
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Ready to rock & roll... Different spacers can be made as needed to position the cutter further down on the shaft.
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Fun little project.... These things are expensive (around $50) when you buy them. This cost Zip in materials.

Ray
 
Fun little project.... These things are expensive (around $50) when you buy them. This cost Zip in materials.

Ray, you always make this stuff look so easy! Nice project and pics
 
Ray, you always make this stuff look so easy! Nice project and pics

Thank you!

Ever since I cleaned and organized the shop, everything is easy to do now. I still have much to do in terms of cleaning and organizing and am working on it a little bit at a time.

Ray
 
RayC, I really like the arbor. I have a set of 22mm gear cutters that have been sitting unused because I don't have the arbor. What's been stopping me from taking that project on was the keyway deal. Although I've seen a couple of people here have had success without the keyways but I think I'll give your method a shot, it seems very doable. Thanks for posting it!

Here's my contribution...I made a tool holder for the tool post grinder (a flex shaft for the Dremel in my case). Only tried it once and it worked great. Can't wait to use this tool more for very fine cutting and grinding work.

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I got the idea from Rob:

 
RayC, I really like the arbor. I have a set of 22mm gear cutters that have been sitting unused because I don't have the arbor. What's been stopping me from taking that project on was the keyway deal. Although I've seen a couple of people here have had success without the keyways but I think I'll give your method a shot, it seems very doable. Thanks for posting it!

Here's my contribution...I made a tool holder for the tool post grinder (a flex shaft for the Dremel in my case). Only tried it once and it worked great. Can't wait to use this tool more for very fine cutting and grinding work.

41020861875_3c26c003dc_o.jpg


I got the idea from Rob:


Nice setup with the die grinder. I've been meaning to make something like that but keep putting it off.

If out take that shortcut of drilling a hole instead of cutting a square broach, first drill the small "broach" hole then, bore the shaft to the desired ID. Use a large drill bit to get close then, use a boring bar in the lathe. If you use a large drill bit and if the edge of it cuts into the "broach" hole, it's going to be a rough ride. If you bore it with a boring bar, take small passes and the hole will come out OK even though it's an interrupted cut.

Good luck and shoot me a PM if you get hung-up.

FWIW, whenever I actually use the broach cutter, I always drill a slightly smaller hole first and it makes the broach cutting go much easier.

Ray
 
Being able to do anything is not always a good thing, my brother recently took his car to the dealership for snappy throttle and oil in the spark plug holes, they diagnose it as a valve cover gasket and intake swirl flaps, and quoted him close to 2K which is more then the car is worth.
After putting it off for couple of weeks this weekend i had to deal with it. Saturday after work i took it apart and found out 12mm play between the shaft for the flaps and the intake, the square shaft has eaten the plastic manifold, tried to remove the flaps they broke in my hands with no effort, i caught it last minute. Today had to do lots of cleaning the PCV valve was all gunked up and filled the intake with oil, everything in fact on this engine is dirty. I made a decision to remove the swirl flaps and block off the hole and the vacuum line for the actuator, left the valve connected,for the big holes where the shaft pass thru the manifold, on one side i reuse the cap to block it off for the other side measured and closes was M16 i used M16x1,5 to have more threads for the sealer to seal, then i quickly made an plug from 17mm hex on my lathe and used locktite 243 on it, this is overkill but better to be on the safe side, after reinstalling the manifold i replaced the valve cover gasket which was leaking badly and assemble everything. Now works like it should, linear throttle and more power than ever before. The car is an Ford Mondeo MK3 with the 1,8 duratec engine, the same engine found in many Mazda vehicles.
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Ray, I used a similar approach to make a couple of spacers for my horizontal mill. I just used an end mill to cut the keyway. Quick and easy. If it really bothered me that it wasn't square I figured I could file it. I like your idea of drilling the keyway first then boring out the spacer. I'll do that if I need to make some longer ones.
 
IF that is the plastic intake, I know several that have had problems with it. It was used on several diff vehicles In fact my daughter gout rid of hers because of problems with it. Glade that you go it going.
 
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