- Joined
- Oct 20, 2014
- Messages
- 133
Keep it as a flagpole, then when you have a good idea, you can run it up the pole and see who salutes.
pete
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2018 POTD Thread Archive
- Thread starter 2volts
- Start date
Keep it as a flagpole, then when you have a good idea, you can run it up the pole and see who salutes.
pete
Repaired the booboo on my mill table using JB-Weld. If this doesn't hold long term I'll weld-fill it. I was just going for a quick and easy way to fill the gouge so it doesn't get chipped from normal usage. So far so good.
Oh and yes CNC will bite you if you're not careful- I entered .7" depth of cut when I meant .07". Garbage in, garbage out.
Oh and yes CNC will bite you if you're not careful- I entered .7" depth of cut when I meant .07". Garbage in, garbage out.
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- Joined
- Jun 12, 2014
- Messages
- 5,068
Another variation on a ball turner, this one mounts to the QCTP. I adapted a Doriain 5C holder to use as a shaft support because I picked it for $50, but one would be better off using a 1" or 1.25" boring bar holder to hold the shaft. The O1 shaft has a staggered step to fit the 5C holder, it is threaded with a 1.5-18 thread for a Shar's 3" boring head and a 1.25-20 thread on the tail end to match a 5C collets, and the stop rings and lever holder have a 1" bore. Turned all the hardware, the Knurled 5C retaining nut has two set screws yo lock it in place and stop rings also have two set screws to set the stop positions against the stop bar which is counter sunk into the holder. I turned a bronze washer to provide an interface and resistance for for the handle. I still need to mill the cutter, I am planning on using a CCMT insert cutter mounted in some o1 3/4" rod that I will heat treat.
The Dorian 5C holder was a bit of a disappointment, in particular if one paid full price for it. As is typical of their holders there is not enough height adjustment for the BXA holder for my 13" swing lathe, so I milled the holder to allow the holder to be adjusted higher. Also many of the holder threads needed to be chased with taps/dies. The holder tolerances were not that good so fitting the shaft took a lot of TLC. One would be better off using a boring bar holder which is a straight bore holder.
Flats use the same 1 1/16" wrench as my QCTP nut, I may consider adding a left hand bolt or a set screw to retain the head.
Handle cap is counter board and anled the same as the QCTP handle.
5C holder vs. boring bar holder. If doing it again I would go with the latter or mill my own holder.
The Dorian 5C holder was a bit of a disappointment, in particular if one paid full price for it. As is typical of their holders there is not enough height adjustment for the BXA holder for my 13" swing lathe, so I milled the holder to allow the holder to be adjusted higher. Also many of the holder threads needed to be chased with taps/dies. The holder tolerances were not that good so fitting the shaft took a lot of TLC. One would be better off using a boring bar holder which is a straight bore holder.
Flats use the same 1 1/16" wrench as my QCTP nut, I may consider adding a left hand bolt or a set screw to retain the head.
Handle cap is counter board and anled the same as the QCTP handle.
5C holder vs. boring bar holder. If doing it again I would go with the latter or mill my own holder.
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Carrying on with this project (https://www.hobby-machinist.com/thr...you-make-in-your-shop-today.67833/post-576905)
Made the second block-off plate:
made a new plate for covering the original inlet port as the one I made needed a couple more rivets to hold the cover flat against it, but there wasn't enough overlap to do it, reassembled the cover and installed it.
Then, fashioned a handle for lifting the engine and cut the hoses to fit:
This will teach me to leave "stock" lying on the ground next to where I park my truck:
Now, the only remaining tasks are to:
-make some wear plates for the nozzle
-make some brackets to put on the bagger cover, to hold a long tube/nozzle for vacuuming in harder to reach spots, like flower beds
-determine the best spot to locate the rear wheels, so the unit has good balance both when the engine/blower is installed and when it is removed
But it looks like tomorrow it will be a snow removal day:
Made the second block-off plate:
made a new plate for covering the original inlet port as the one I made needed a couple more rivets to hold the cover flat against it, but there wasn't enough overlap to do it, reassembled the cover and installed it.
Then, fashioned a handle for lifting the engine and cut the hoses to fit:
This will teach me to leave "stock" lying on the ground next to where I park my truck:
Now, the only remaining tasks are to:
-make some wear plates for the nozzle
-make some brackets to put on the bagger cover, to hold a long tube/nozzle for vacuuming in harder to reach spots, like flower beds
-determine the best spot to locate the rear wheels, so the unit has good balance both when the engine/blower is installed and when it is removed
But it looks like tomorrow it will be a snow removal day:
- Joined
- May 10, 2017
- Messages
- 1,199
I finished the VFD upgrade on my milling machine. Runs smooth as silk. So quiet I can’t hear it running. I will add LED’s
to the run station in the next day or so, green for running, red for stopped. I have a MachTach that I still need to build, it will be mounted under the DRO box. The speed pot will be in the MachTach box also.
2 hp 145T Motor, Delta 2 hp drive
to the run station in the next day or so, green for running, red for stopped. I have a MachTach that I still need to build, it will be mounted under the DRO box. The speed pot will be in the MachTach box also.
2 hp 145T Motor, Delta 2 hp drive
- Joined
- Oct 21, 2017
- Messages
- 504
Here's what the new box connected to the VFD does -
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="
" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>
This is the job which gave me the impetus to build the control box -
It's a Titanium pin with a short 6.35mm section and a 50mm long 3.92mm section, tuning the cutting speed for good chip control with the roller box is critical as if the chips foul the rollers surface finish suffers.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="
This is the job which gave me the impetus to build the control box -
It's a Titanium pin with a short 6.35mm section and a 50mm long 3.92mm section, tuning the cutting speed for good chip control with the roller box is critical as if the chips foul the rollers surface finish suffers.
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2013
- Messages
- 4,395
very nice! I'm planning on doing the same at some point with a boring head I got from extropic. I want to be able to use it on the mill and the lathe, so I'll be making a similar straight shank arbor with flats at the end for a handle.
