2018 POTD Thread Archive

[jdedmon91]

I purchased a center for my Grizzly to use with my drive dog plate I recently made. The center had .015 runout. So I broke out the CBN inserts and trued the center up. The bad part is I ordered a Phase 2 from Travers and it had .005 runout. Kind of aggravating. Any how I posted a video on my channel in case anyone or interested in seeing it.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[jdedmon91]

I got tired of the cheap looking knob on my dial indicator mount, and figured it would be a good opportunity to work on some,new to me, operations.

I like the knobs, I make a lot of knobs for my projects because I have the time and hand made knobs make a project look way cooler than a plastic one


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[jdedmon91]

Well...was going to make a beautiful knob style chuck key, to adjust the back of my 4 jaw. Instead I had my first crash, on my mill. Ended up taking too deep of a cut, while climb milling, and it broke my 1/2" end mill, as well as put some scars on my work.View attachment 280745View attachment 280746
Had to finish up the squared off section by hand, ie filing. But it fits in the 4 jaw anyways.View attachment 280747View attachment 280748
Need to wait for my new endmill to come in, to finish it up...guess it's on hold for now.
On another note, I decided to use a piece of old aluminum ladder, that I was saving for casting, as a holder for my R8 milling attachments and collets.
View attachment 280750
That came out alright I guess..anyrate, thanks for looking.

Love the ladder idea. I made myself one out of some scrap I had.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[jdedmon91]

View attachment 281330
Wasn’t done in a day about 3days 2 hours at a time. That’s all the free time I can get sometimes. This is actually my first attempt at dovetails. Worked good no surprises. I have a bunch of 2 1/2 round so it seemed perfect for the project. Don’t have any pics of the dovtail work sometimes I get involved in the job and don’t think of it. Here’s a shot of drilling out a 15/16 hole talk about some spiral chips.
View attachment 281329
Then I broke out the boring head and opened it up the 1.000. My second time using this boring head. I love it very well built and a pleasure using no makers mark it bores and faces.
View attachment 281328
Was happy with fit and finish. View attachment 281332
Next was slitting it. This was what I came up with to hold with the arbor I have for the slitting saw. Was a little challenging figure out how to hold and get the clearance.
One question I have is do you cut the hole slot at once full depth or cut a it with multiple passes? I did .100 cuts with no problem it was just my first time using slitting saw. Didn’t want to mess it up. Usually I’d cut on the bandsaw but I wanted a crisp, straight cut.
View attachment 281331
After doing this I found I need to make acouple slitting saw arbors. All that’s left is to drill and tap a hole on top for setting height. I’m waiting for the 2” long fine thread set screw to come in. And I have to make the knurled adjustment ring that comes on tool holders. I need another day in the shop.

After you get the hang of it dovetails are not that hard. I cut my share in toolholders. I have a set of blocks for my small boring bars I made so I don’t have to change them.

Awesome work so far


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[GoceKU]

I've been looking for a new or used trunk lid for the little Niva for almost a month now with no success, all have some rust or have been roll over and are bent so i clear out my work bench and attack it with a wire brush on an angle grinder and took off all the paint and plastic filler, and found lots of rust some suffice rust, some deep, the drivers side will need 3-4 pieces welded it, in the middle whoever drill the badge holes probably used in nail and a rock it dented and distorted the entire trunk lid, i'll weld all the holes shut. The passenger side is the worst, rusted out inside and outside, i'll need to remake the inner parts first then the outside skin and on all of that i'll need to do bodywork to make it straight and smooth, all of this was covered with plastic filler.

 

[Cooter Brown]

I just did a repair to the vise for my Atlas 7b shaper, the previous owner decided it would be a good idea to cut into the vise so that parts will not sit flat anymore... I used Low Fuming Bronze and an Oxy torch... Fired up the heat treat furnace to 700 degrees before I started brazing and as soon as I finished adding filler rod the vise went in the furnace for an hour at 700 and then I shut off the furnace and let it cool to room temperature inside the furnace.... I cut it close with the shaper and then stuck it on the surface grinder...

Going to make new vise jaws now...

 

[GoceKU]

Today i had couple of things to paint in the big garage, so i painted the back of the original Lada wheels, the fronts are still in high build primer but i like running the inner part of the wheel mat black to hide the brake dust and dirt, i first did apply 2 coats of high zinc protection primer then one coat of 2 K mat black paint, the finish looks like wrinkle paint because of the rust pitting, thankfully the holes in the face are small and is not visible, because of the paint fumes i decided not to be grinding and welding the rest of the evening.

 

[Shootymacshootface]

Success!

After several days of eyestrain and working with a magnifying glass, my Starrett 216 is repaired! The shiny spots on the body are where the original owner had his full name or his initials deeply engraved (4 places).
The broken part was a plastic gear that was pressed onto some knurling on the brass part that is on the spindle.

These are the new parts that I ordered from Starrett (nice folks).

It was a total gamble because parts are NLA for my early 216. The guy knew that the window would fit, but that the drive gear was different. He didn't know specifically in what way. I lucked out because it was oversized in just the right places.


The tiny litle drivegear screw was hard to make because I could barely see some of the features it had. There is a .023 dia tit on the end of it that rides in a groove on the spindle.


I used the old drive gear body to hold the screw so that I could cut a screwdriver slot in it. I found the location by eye.

I lightly lubricated it with some Hoppes gun oil.

Its kind of funny that the plastic drive gear had a crack in it that acted like an extra tooth. The further it opened the larger the error became. The new part is a steel body with a brass or bronze gear on it.

 

[Alexander McGilton]

Neat stuff.
While you were on the phone with them did you ask why they don't add the ruler scale on the micrometer. I have their depth micrometer with the odometer like display, and it seams odd that I can't reference the digital to the more reliable ruler.

 

[SubtleHustle]

Nice job Shooty! And nice 216!