2018 POTD Thread Archive

The first thing I've ever made with a metal lathe...

TeeNut_2.jpg
The t-nut for my new quick change tool post.

Had to hacksaw and file 0.215" off each side and then face down to 0.221 thickness leaving a 0.73 width boss in the middle. I was stumped for a while on how to hold the blank in the lathe. Eventually I found a metric bolt (shown at right) that fit and clamped that in the 3-jaw. With a little futzing, it was running about 0.004 from true.

BTW, is it normal for interrupted cuts to throw hot little chips back onto your hands?!? They sting when they land on the web between fingers!

I'm very happy with the fit; nice and snug within the little compound of my Atlas 618. Finish isn't the greatest as there was some chatter. Acceptable to me for what it is.

This hobby may actually have possibilities...

Craig
 
An alternate way to get to the same place is to start with round stock. Face one side and leave the boss just like you did, then flip the part and chuck on the boss to face the opposite side to thickness. Trim two opposing edges to fit the compound width. A tad more wasteful of material this way, but it avoids the interrupted cut. Nothing wrong with your method though, and the end result is the same.

-frank
 
An alternate way to get to the same place is to start with round stock. Face one side and leave the boss just like you did, then flip the part and chuck on the boss to face the opposite side to thickness. Trim two opposing edges to fit the compound width. A tad more wasteful of material this way, but it avoids the interrupted cut. Nothing wrong with your method though, and the end result is the same.
Thanks, Frank. The rectangular blank was supplied with the qctp. Pre-drilled and tapped--metric, 10mm fine as best as I can tell. The supplied nut for the other end has a wider flange, as well. I figured if I really screwed up I could make another t-nut and use 3/8" threaded rod. Happily, it didn't come to that!

Craig
 
The first thing I've ever made with a metal lathe...
<snip>
Finish isn't the greatest as there was some chatter. Acceptable to me for what it is.
Don't apologize for the finish. Tell people that it's deliberately a bit rough to increase friction and hold better on your compound. "It's not a bug, it's a feature!"
Anyway, nice work! I think I can immodestly speak for others on the forum and say that we're all sure you'll continue to learn and enjoy as you do more projects on your lathe.
 
I got hit from behind on the highway, plus the icy road cause me to spin couple of times and the front wheel hit the medium, thankfully no one got injured and the car that hit me never stopped. I continued to work but notice my steering wheel in no longer straight, when i got home i inspected the front end and found the steering rack extension was bent, i had a spare and changed it also took it to an alignment shop to get i align and check, the guy there said no surprise there is nothing else bent is build like a tank he was so impressed with it, he polish out the color transfer rear bumper from the car that hit me, good ending to a bad situation.
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I soaked this carburetor in vinegar and degreaser for two days to get all the varnish off, i wanted to soake it for only one day but because of the accident got an extra day but this morning i blow out all the passages and run wire thru them, then i made some more new klingerit gaskets, the main gasket is different to the other carburetor, this one has an extra accelerator pump and a throttle damper, assembly was easier simpler linkage. But i have a feeling this one will be harder to set up, it has less adjustments points.
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I had bought a faceplate from shars that was machined. It only had a three bolt pattern I need a 6 bolt pattern for my bison. I put the studs in for the d1-4 mounting and installed on lathe to check over. Seems well machined could only get a .0005 twitch out of bore, OD, and face.
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After that I mounted in the RT already centered. Then centered my plate. Naturally the existing hole pattern was a pain to align exactly on a degree of the RT. Ended up being 76* 45sec as my zero. With that I drilled all the holes. And of course I never have the right size tool for the job meaning counterbore cutters. I have a american set but not metric so I ended up using a endmill which gave me .002 clearance.
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I ended up chucking all the screws and taking .005 off the OD of the heads. Once done I anxiously pulled off the RT to check bolt hole alignment. Like I knew what I was doing Awesome! So I remounted on the lathe.
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It was a challenge finding a tool that would cut what I needed. I have a coil cover over my leadscrew and with the carriage al the way to the headstock my cross slide almost fully extended I needed to have almost 3” of stick out on my tool. Luckily no chatter cut like butter. I actually impressed myself on the fitment of register to chuck. Finish was very acceptable and overall very happy with how it came out. After mounting the chuck I threw a ground pin in to check runout. Theirs .0015 runout and I haven’t tried indexing the chuck to backplate yet.
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But for now I think it acceptable. On to the next!

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Cadillac I had to the same on my build of a drive plate. Use a left hand tool on the QC block. It works


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