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2017 POTD Thread Archive
- Thread starter jpfabricator
- Start date
- Joined
- Feb 17, 2013
- Messages
- 4,415
Back in 2015, Brooks Ravenscroft (brav65) posted about using magnetic vent covers from Home Depot as milling machine table covers.
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/way-cover-t-slot-cover.37227/
As Brooks said, "They are magnetic and can be cut to fit any size you want. They stick to the table but are easy to remove. The best part is they were under $4 for a package of 3."
I just thunk up a new use for these. Needed to touch up some parts on the belt sander that were vulnerable to being scratched. I can clean all the grit off the table, but the cast iron table itself would scratch the parts as I slid them across.
So I found my stock of vent covers and cut one to the size of the belt sander table. Easy to keep clean, because you can remove it and take it to the sink for a thorough washing.
PS - I think these would also be useful to cover lathe ways when tool post grinding. Because they're magnetic, there's little or no danger of their lifting upward and being caught by the rotating chuck. And being magnetic, they'll catch at least some of the (ferrous) swarf.
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/way-cover-t-slot-cover.37227/
As Brooks said, "They are magnetic and can be cut to fit any size you want. They stick to the table but are easy to remove. The best part is they were under $4 for a package of 3."
I just thunk up a new use for these. Needed to touch up some parts on the belt sander that were vulnerable to being scratched. I can clean all the grit off the table, but the cast iron table itself would scratch the parts as I slid them across.
So I found my stock of vent covers and cut one to the size of the belt sander table. Easy to keep clean, because you can remove it and take it to the sink for a thorough washing.
PS - I think these would also be useful to cover lathe ways when tool post grinding. Because they're magnetic, there's little or no danger of their lifting upward and being caught by the rotating chuck. And being magnetic, they'll catch at least some of the (ferrous) swarf.
- Joined
- Feb 1, 2015
- Messages
- 9,939
Greg, no way I would be able to have those in my shop. As soon as my wife saw them, they would be confiscated. Beautiful workmanship!
- Joined
- Jan 2, 2014
- Messages
- 9,051
I think you mean "Finely Finished!"
From antique logging boats, thru firewood processing machines and now fine furniture.
Greg you are a Renaissance man.
-brino
- Joined
- Dec 11, 2014
- Messages
- 891
Finally finished installing the DRO on the G0704 Mill tonight.
That Y axis is a PITA to do.
Very little vertical surface to mount the read head brackets to. Ended up using a piece of Delrin to screw to the side of the Y Dovetail, machined a step on the Mill side for clearance to base and a 58 degree angle on the other, had to be careful and only drill .375" deep into the Y Dovetail. Then a piece of 3/8" Delrin from the block to the read head, slotted for adjustment.
The Z and X were pretty easy and took maybe an hour for each with the drilling and tapping taking the longest.
Overall I am very happy with the DRO and it is very accurate. For $251.60 shipped, I am not going to complain to much.
I'll have to figure out all the functions before I use it to it's full potential.
That Y axis is a PITA to do.
Very little vertical surface to mount the read head brackets to. Ended up using a piece of Delrin to screw to the side of the Y Dovetail, machined a step on the Mill side for clearance to base and a 58 degree angle on the other, had to be careful and only drill .375" deep into the Y Dovetail. Then a piece of 3/8" Delrin from the block to the read head, slotted for adjustment.
The Z and X were pretty easy and took maybe an hour for each with the drilling and tapping taking the longest.
Overall I am very happy with the DRO and it is very accurate. For $251.60 shipped, I am not going to complain to much.
I'll have to figure out all the functions before I use it to it's full potential.
Built a manual crank for my new 9x20 lathe this afternoon. The lowest the spindle turns is 130rpm so this should come in handy for taps and dies. I'm a newbie when it comes to machining so go easy on me 
I used my Craftsman bench top drill-press with a small x-y Wilton vise to drill and tap (manually turning the chuck) the holes on the spindle nut as well as the matching holes on the crank handle. Worked quite nicely, who needs a mill?
Oh I did shape the crank body with my RF30 mill to make sure it saw some use too :lol:
I used my Craftsman bench top drill-press with a small x-y Wilton vise to drill and tap (manually turning the chuck) the holes on the spindle nut as well as the matching holes on the crank handle. Worked quite nicely, who needs a mill?
Oh I did shape the crank body with my RF30 mill to make sure it saw some use too :lol: