2017 POTD Thread Archive

Been there before Tony and got bit. Have the bore 2 thou over. Its going on the old shaft that has some wear, if it was a new shaft I'd bore them after shrinking them in.

Greg

Right on, I used to use a 75% rule of thumb on bushing shrink fits. The bore would reduce by 75% of the interference. It does vary somewhat based on dia and bushing thickness. The larger the dia and/or thinner the ring the closer you get to 100%.
 
Right on, I used to use a 75% rule of thumb on bushing shrink fits. The bore would reduce by 75% of the interference. It does vary somewhat based on dia and bushing thickness. The larger the dia and/or thinner the ring the closer you get to 100%.

Similar to what I've used. I would use the .001" per inch of bore for the interference fit then anticipate the ID reducing by approx. 75% of the interference calculated. Not always exact but usually damn close.

Mike
 
I was able to get some more work done on my work bench cupboard doors last night. Welded some strap down the hinge side to give a little more support then wiped down and painted with Rustoleum Hammered paint to match the benches themselves.

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I also scrounged through my limited supply of sheet and found some 16-gauge brushed aluminum that is just enough for the two doors but not enough for the one side of the storage compartment on the 6’ bench. I was able to also find some 16-gauge polished ATP but seeing as how I have nothing else in the shop that is ATP nor polished I think I will install the ATP with the flat side out and tread in so it more closely matches the coloring of the sheet on the doors.
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While the paint was drying on the door frames I took my patio furniture from the deck and put it up on the mezzanine so it will be out of the weather throughout the winter.

Tonight I was going to finish them up but just got a call from my upholstery guy and he can possibly get going on my Jeep seats tomorrow afternoon if I can get them to him and he had a cancellation for next week and jump right on my coach seats/couches then so for the next couple of nights I will be removing interiors.



Mike
 
I was able to get my doors for the work benches tonight.

I also closed in the side of the 6’ Work bench.
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The 16-gauge aluminum measured and marked for cutting.
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After cutting to size and deburring I marked out a line 4” in from the perimeter to add a small kustom touch.
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Dug out the bead roller and installed the step dies.
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I think it gives the doors a bit of dimension.
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I picked up some inexpensive small tapered brushed finish handles a few weeks ago. I thought these would be low profile enough to not catch on my shop apron while working at the bench.
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I think they finish off the work benches quite nicely.
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That’s another small project marked off the to-do list.

Thanks for looking.

Mike
 
Nice work Mike, very clean indeed. Tell us more about your bead roller, it looks like nice quality and light considering the mass. Have you considered modifying the mount to fit your 2" receiver you incorporated on your bench? Faster and safer for a one man show IMO.
Shop is looking great Mike.
 
Nice work Mike, very clean indeed. Tell us more about your bead roller, it looks like nice quality and light considering the mass. Have you considered modifying the mount to fit your 2" receiver you incorporated on your bench? Faster and safer for a one man show IMO.
Shop is looking great Mike.

Thanks Paco, I appreciate the feedback. Shop is coming together and I LOVE working in my new shop. If I didn't have to sleep I would spend every waking minute out there.

My bead roller is a Mitler Bros. powered unit but I wouldn't exactly call it light, it is still quite heavy and awkward to move around but works out much better for me where I have it somewhat portable and don't have to have it set up all the time. It originally had a stand where it either could be bolted to the ground or a roll cart but when I purchased it I cut the base off and welded the flat strap on it to clamp to the welding table and I could store it by hanging it on the wall vs. on the floor in the corner of the shop somewhere. I may build a hitch stub to fit into a 2" receiver and then weld another receiver or two under my welding table. I like the height that it is when used at my welding table vs. my work benches so I doubt I will use it at the benches.

I really haven't used it too much in the past couple of years but back when I was racing and building sand rails I used it a lot for building fuel tanks, coolant tanks, aluminum side panels, etc. and really like the fact that it is powered. The footswitch is a rheostat so the speed can be varied somewhat which is nice for turning corners or even bead rolling flames into a panel. My buddy has a Pexto manual unit which is a very high end roller but where you have to crank the handle it becomes very cumbersome to use in my opinion. On small panels such as fuel tanks the manual one works fine but on long parts like the side panels to a sandrail that are 6-8 feet in length the manual one really needs two people to make a smooth uniform bead and not look jagged or notched on curves. The powered one is so nice and smooth to do curves with. Even small parts such as tank rolls I still like the powered unit for ease and fluid movements.

Thanks for the comments Paco.

Mike
 
Thanks Paco, I appreciate the feedback. Shop is coming together and I LOVE working in my new shop. If I didn't have to sleep I would spend every waking minute out there.

My bead roller is a Mitler Bros. powered unit but I wouldn't exactly call it light, it is still quite heavy and awkward to move around but works out much better for me where I have it somewhat portable and don't have to have it set up all the time. It originally had a stand where it either could be bolted to the ground or a roll cart but when I purchased it I cut the base off and welded the flat strap on it to clamp to the welding table and I could store it by hanging it on the wall vs. on the floor in the corner of the shop somewhere. I may build a hitch stub to fit into a 2" receiver and then weld another receiver or two under my welding table. I like the height that it is when used at my welding table vs. my work benches so I doubt I will use it at the benches.

I really haven't used it too much in the past couple of years but back when I was racing and building sand rails I used it a lot for building fuel tanks, coolant tanks, aluminum side panels, etc. and really like the fact that it is powered. The footswitch is a rheostat so the speed can be varied somewhat which is nice for turning corners or even bead rolling flames into a panel. My buddy has a Pexto manual unit which is a very high end roller but where you have to crank the handle it becomes very cumbersome to use in my opinion. On small panels such as fuel tanks the manual one works fine but on long parts like the side panels to a sandrail that are 6-8 feet in length the manual one really needs two people to make a smooth uniform bead and not look jagged or notched on curves. The powered one is so nice and smooth to do curves with. Even small parts such as tank rolls I still like the powered unit for ease and fluid movements.

Thanks for the comments Paco.

Mike

Nice unit, light in comparison to a steel one with the same design. Aluminum billet is strong as hell. Reminds me of our Amkus spreaders (jaws of life) we use . Stout billet construction, still heavy but light compared to steel. My welding tables also incorporate 2” receivers for the same reason you mentioned.
Lastly, what model is the bead roller?
Thanks Mike
 
Nice unit, light in comparison to a steel one with the same design. Aluminum billet is strong as hell. Reminds me of our Amkus spreaders (jaws of life) we use . Stout billet construction, still heavy but light compared to steel. My welding tables also incorporate 2” receivers for the same reason you mentioned.
Lastly, what model is the bead roller?
Thanks Mike

Paco, the model I have is the model 202-24. Here is a link:
https://www.mittlerbros.com/24-adjustable-shaft-bead-roller.html

Things I really like about it compared to my buddies Pexto are the 24" deep throat. This makes turning much easier and allows the ability to put steps or bead much further into a panel. Secondly the fact that both wheels are driven which almost completely eliminates skid marks or drag marks on the surface.

Mike
 
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