2016 POTD Thread Archive

[wawoodman]

I started with auto body work in the 60s..

View attachment 122492

Hmm... That's about when I started denting them up...

 

[TOOLMASTER]

I still dent them up.

 

[davidh]

tommy, you will be one of the elite if you can accomplish that. . .

 

[RJSakowski]

Bondo is evil because it absorbs moisture. If a hole is patched with fiberglass screen and Bondo and exposed to moisture from the backside, it will eventually fail. The backside of the repair should be totally sealed from moisture and, of course, the front side is sealed with a proper paint job. Body filler works in that instance. The same is true for polyester resin and fiberglass cloth used for boat repair. The repair must be sealed with a gel coat. Epoxy fillers do not have this problem.

The OP is looking at filling imperfections in a steel weldment which will not be exposed to excess moisture and should be sealed on the back side with weld and the front side with paint. I van see no issue with using Bondo in that instance, IMHO.

 

[dlane]

TommyD , Lead works for filler, old school style.
Don't know of anything that works better ,long life and non plastic.
I'm gona be needing some lead Soon

 

[planeflyer21]

TommyD , Lead works for filler, old school style.
Don't know of anything that works better ,long life and non plastic.
I'm gona be needing some lead Soon

View attachment 122534

But that's bullet makin's!

 

[zmotorsports]

Here is one of my favorite pictures, 7 clamps to locate a section of angle iron. LOL
View attachment 122430

Looks great Dan, but HEY, I see enough room for at least two or three more clamps there.

Mike.

 

[TommyD]

TommyD , Lead works for filler, old school style.
Don't know of anything that works better ,long life and non plastic.
I'm gona be needing some lead Soon

I'd love to learn how to use lead, I have seen them rip it out on some resto shows. I almost bought some lead body irons at my favorite flea market just because they were cool.

I'm on another site where a guy has a monster thread on his builds using patches and mig welding them into place. He describes the method to spot weld them in, planishing the weld to counteract shrinkage, and grinding them flat and start over. It looks easy but..... I practicing on some light gage steel the thickness of my fenders to get the right heat and wire feed. So far I have a bunch of burned through holes with globs of weld and parent material at the edges.

 

[Sharky]

I'd love to learn how to use lead, I have seen them rip it out on some resto shows. I almost bought some lead body irons at my favorite flea market just because they were cool.

I'm on another site where a guy has a monster thread on his builds using patches and mig welding them into place. He describes the method to spot weld them in, planishing the weld to counteract shrinkage, and grinding them flat and start over. It looks easy but..... I practicing on some light gage steel the thickness of my fenders to get the right heat and wire feed. So far I have a bunch of burned through holes with globs of weld and parent material at the edges.

Try a piece of copper as a backer for your weld, absorbs heat and mig wont stick to it. You can buy copper spoons from HF cheap or better ones from Eastwood or other body shop suppliers.

Sent from my SM-T217S using Tapatalk

 

[TommyD]

I learned about copper in that thread I mentioned. I'm still in practice mode with the welding, right now I have most of the rear end out of my truck, finding 60 year old gaskets, packings, etc. is gobbling up my time.

And mig WILL stick to copper, ya just gotta get it dirty enough.