2016 POTD Thread Archive

chevydyl said:
Roadie, it's called a strap wrench
Click to expand...

That's what I thought it was, but wanted to make sure.
That ought to be able to spin just about anything you can wrap it around with a long enough lever.
I needed one one time to spin a 4" conduit out of a fitting and didn't have one around. Ended up taking my leather belt off and wrapping around the conduit and using a 3" long 1" conduit for the lever. Worked great, just stretched my belt a little bit more.
 
The other day I wished I had one longer than my nominally 6" craftsman so I could get my 6" 4-jaw chuck off. Ended up chucking a breaking bar instead, which struck me as non-ideal but everything else had failed. I think I'll need to make one of these as well. :)
 
That makes sense, but again I would prefer to torque on the body rather than the jaws. I could make a large spanner wrench to grab the pinion. I wish they just provided an actual "torque here" spot on the body, at least for these screw-on chucks. An otherwise non-functional piece so there's no risk of damage to the precision parts.
 
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"It's okay, Sweetie! It followed ME home. And it isn't even working. See the broken roller? I didn't get it for you."
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Got the new OEM radiator installed after a long dog walk. I had prepped the rig prior by draining the fluids and breaking all hoses as well as cleaned the mess one always gets when doing a job like this. Tip! always coat the inside of your hoses with Dry-slyde or alike. This allows you to break the seal without too much effort. I had replaced all the hoses when I purchased the rig four years ago and used Napa's version. The hoses pulled right off. I also removed the tires to allow the rig to sit low on the lift when working topside. I'm getting too old to fight with jobs that can be simplified. This is also a good opportunity to inspect the brakes etc.
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The new radiator went in without hassle and lined up, so I was happy. It took a good part of the day, but I was cleaning areas of the rig that normally could not be accessed with the rad in. I also replaced the two lower hoses while I was there as well as the oil cooler hose that comes off the "T" tube.
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The shroud was heavily damaged along with the fan and radiator when I purchased the rig. It seemed to me, a motor mount must have failed at some point resulting in the fan "kissing" mentioned items. The photo above shows the portion of the shroud that was rebuilt (thin strap on edge) as well as a new fan I had to get from Japan. The radiator was the last thing on my list as I have been soldering and nursing along.
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Where on earth can a guy buy a new brass radiator from Japan for $300 and $40 shipping? If any of you guys are in need of vintage OEM Toyota Land cruiser parts, PM me and I can provide you with the contact.
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Old rad on top showed evidence of fan contact at 6'Oclock. After burping the "baby" she ran about 25º cooler (heat gun) than before at normal operating temp. I will now lean the carb a little to sneeze out 13 MPG or better compared to the 11.5-12 MPG.
Remember the Dry-slyde next time you guys fight with pulling a hose that has been in-place a while. I hope this tip helps.
Thanks for looking.
Turn and burn.
Paco
 
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