2016 POTD Thread Archive

The HTTP looks fine to me. I can access the image.

It shows up when the image is hosted on photobucket.com (see second image), but not when the image is on tapatalk-cdn.com.

I wonder if the tapatalk-cdn.com site is on a filter of some kind?
b8a419e2a1fabbe3bdc65142a601a4b4.jpg
b8a419e2a1fabbe3bdc65142a601a4b4_zpsect2vy7e.jpg
 
Yeah, even the printed (?) ruler on the cabinet/table in front of the machine is in flawless condition. It's like how some guys have new-in-box Shopsmith Mark whatever machines in their garage, having had grand desires when purchasing it but not ever using it.

It included all of the original presser feet (up to $25 each to buy them online), the manual, bobbins and carriers, etc. It even had the original belt, though it had long since broken down. $4 part. This machine goes for hundreds of dollars in good condition, without all the accessories.

Not a bad score for $80. :-D
 
I realize it's not the point of your post, but just incidentally: I abhor photobucket. If I had a nickel for every photobucket-hosted image that was not available when I was studying a forum thread a couple years after it was posted, I could probably buy a brand new mill. With very few exceptions, including this Tapatalk one that could be related to their recent app update or this forum migration to a private server (or some other factor I'm unaware of), when an image is missing in a forum post (on any forum) odds are it was posted on photobucket.
 
Well, I had an unusual experience today. I was working on my South Bend 9A and every measurement was coming up within .002". Even intermediate check measurements. At one point I was going for .260" and got .2599. OK, I had one intermediate measurement that was .007 off, but easily fixed.

Now I realize that this may not be a big deal to a lot of people, but rarely does everything come out so well for me. It kind of annoyed me. Because...

I was making daubers for my South Bend lathes. I didn't really need to be that accurate. But I'll bet you that if I needed to line up two holes precisely or make a tapered pin this wouldn't have happened.

I made them to some dimensions that I got off "Practical Machinist". I didn't realize how small they were.

dauber 4 s.jpg dauber 3 s.jpg


Incidentally, my 9C is from 1942 and my 9A is from 1947. The dauber hole is wider and deeper in the 9C than it is in the 9A. I adjusted accordingly. The one shown is for the 9C that I made yesterday.

I made four more today and they are currently in a rock tumbler in a mix of milling swarf and 5W-20 synthetic oil. It appears to be giving them a nice satin finish. I'll probably buff them up with white buffing compound.
 
After two years of procrastinating, I finally got the power feed hooked up on my Burke mill. I stripped the pulley off the back of the spindle and set up a separate motor for the feed.
power feed3.jpg I put a longer motor support post in the mill base and made a mount for a DC motor that works like the spindle motor mounting.

power feed2.jpg The weight of the motor keeps the belt tight.

power feed1.jpg I mounted the DC motor drive above the forward / reverse switch.

power feed.jpg It works fantastic and I get much better finishes now. I really should have done this sooner.
 
Had a play day yesterday, went with a couple of buddies to a Forestry Expo a couple of hours from here. Lots of neat and BIG equipment. They had a skidder there that was huge, grapples had to be 8 feet long and Im sure you could have parked two pickups between them. Lots of firewood processors to admire and sawmills to ogle over. Seams most now use ceramic or powdered metal blade guides. Need to look into that.
Anyway back to work. So we'll bore you with wood again.
So far the case has no fasteners.
IMG_2264.jpg

The writing surface / front lid might warp due to the width so I'll edge band it for strength. This joint gets guess in the middle and pins at the edges to hold it in place but still allow seasonal movement. Not unlike allowing for temperature expansion in shafts and weld joints.
IMG_2265.jpg

Greg
 
Finished installing my new air compressor. Said screw it, not paying $80/litre for Ingersoll Rand air compressor oil, and just used the Rolair $60/4l jug of synthetic oil instead. Also replaced the guts of the pressure switch because the original one broke while getting the compressor off it's pallet [the compressor is REALLY top heavy]. And evidently the 'contact email' for a bunch of Ingersoll Rand service companies here in Edmonton go to /dev/null, got no response from any of them. Fortunately, kmstools had a Hobart-branded pressure switch that had exactly the same guts as the original switch for $60, less than what I could find online for non-oem replacement switch for IR's part number.

Also added a hour meter to my 52" walkbehind Snapper mower. Used a zip-tie to hold the wire wrapped around the spark plug wire, which was much faster and should hold better vs my previous method on other mowers of using rtv to glue the wire to the spark plug wire [really messy to do, and didn't hold very well].

Edit: Also replaced the thumb-screw drain valve with a drain valve connected to a cable from kmstools ($15). It sucks getting under the tank whenever I use it to drain the water. This way, just walking by I can pull on the cable and it drains the water. I considered an automated drain valve, but at $200+, I think I would rather remember to pull the cable every once in awhile.
 
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Had a 15 HP 220/440 volt 3hase motor around for a long time. Son in law able to get it checked out by an electrician during the past 2 weeks. Now to get the "magic box" with the condensers and switches to get it into service. First usage will probably be checking out a large drill press that was retired in favor of a faster operating machine. Next will probably be a 14" radial arm saw. Being able to demonstrate these machines should help to sell or trade them.
Have a good dat!
Ray
 
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