I did send them to my PC. They are correctly oriented on my PC. They only load that way when I upload them here. And it seems after a day or so they are correctly oriented on here. I just don't know .
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2015 POTD Thread Archive
- Thread starter jumps4
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I did send them to my PC. They are correctly oriented on my PC. They only load that way when I upload them here. And it seems after a day or so they are correctly oriented on here. I just don't know .
Between my and my friend's shop, we have a half dozen broken band saw blades ( he has more than me, I only have one ). I decided it was time to make a blade welding jig. I have the silver solder ribbon, flux, and a little torch that uses mapp gas and oxygen for brazing, so we need a jig . I raided my scrap box for pieces I could use.
I took a piece of 3/8" thick, 3" wide aluminum bar 8" long. I milled a .100" deep fab bit on one edge .50" wide. This gives a shoulder to butt the blade up against. I milled an opening 2" wide and 1.5" deep. The blade ends will be in this opening for brazing.
The nifty little clamps are cut from a piece of aluminum truck molding. The had a nice little rounded lip to hold down the blade.
On the bottom is a piece of 3/4" square steel bar to hold in the vise. The clamp bolts have little springs under them to relapse them when loosened.
The photo shows the jig in my bench vise ready to use. I also made a block of aluminum with a saw kerf at a 25 degree angle . The blade gets inserted and passed across the belt sander to bevel the end of the blade for brazing. This complete jig took about an hour to build, but will save time by making and repairing my own band saw blades .
I took a piece of 3/8" thick, 3" wide aluminum bar 8" long. I milled a .100" deep fab bit on one edge .50" wide. This gives a shoulder to butt the blade up against. I milled an opening 2" wide and 1.5" deep. The blade ends will be in this opening for brazing.
The nifty little clamps are cut from a piece of aluminum truck molding. The had a nice little rounded lip to hold down the blade.
On the bottom is a piece of 3/4" square steel bar to hold in the vise. The clamp bolts have little springs under them to relapse them when loosened.
The photo shows the jig in my bench vise ready to use. I also made a block of aluminum with a saw kerf at a 25 degree angle . The blade gets inserted and passed across the belt sander to bevel the end of the blade for brazing. This complete jig took about an hour to build, but will save time by making and repairing my own band saw blades .
Soon..... Tomorrow my buddy is going to try to polish it up and make it pretty. I haven't tried it yet. I downloaded a youtube video about brazing blades and how to do it. That is where I found the info on the fixture. Theirs was a little crude but worked. I always try to make things look nice.
- Joined
- Apr 20, 2014
- Messages
- 76
That is a nifty jig that I am going to have to copy.
I have been improvising with some wooden blocks clamped to a table then mig welding the blades. Nicely done! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
It looks kind of rough right now, but we are going to polish it up to make it prettier. I am going to try silver soldering some blades. I have read and heard that silver soldering is as good as the welding. I don't know but will soon find out.That is a nifty jig that I am going to have to copy.
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Mine isn't as refined as yours Mark but works quite well. The silver solder joint holds up pretty well. The blade has so little mass a simple propane plumbers torch will supply enough heat.
- Joined
- Feb 24, 2015
- Messages
- 1,382
Looks good, Mark.
I saw a presentation of a similar rig. He used cam-action clamps to hold the blade. It might have been in Home Shop Machinist, or the other magazine.
He over-lapped the two ends of the blade in the clamp, and used a Dremel with a cutting wheel hand held at an angle to cut the mating surfaces of the blade, cutting an overlapping bevel to increase contact surface for soldering. He used silver solder ribbon.
As the solder cooled, he repeatedly reheated the joint slightly in decreasing passes to slow cooling and minimize brittle tempering from the heat of the solder job.
I saw a presentation of a similar rig. He used cam-action clamps to hold the blade. It might have been in Home Shop Machinist, or the other magazine.
He over-lapped the two ends of the blade in the clamp, and used a Dremel with a cutting wheel hand held at an angle to cut the mating surfaces of the blade, cutting an overlapping bevel to increase contact surface for soldering. He used silver solder ribbon.
As the solder cooled, he repeatedly reheated the joint slightly in decreasing passes to slow cooling and minimize brittle tempering from the heat of the solder job.
- Joined
- Dec 27, 2014
- Messages
- 658
I drove to Pittsburg in the The Peoples Republic of Pennsylvania today and pick up my new PM1340GT...
Matt had a 3ph one with a nice big ding in the top, and a stand with a nice rip in the sheet metal. As Garp said "we'll take it, it has been pre-disastered." I actually prefer stuff to not be perfect, other wise I waste time cleaning it more than needed. I also like discounts