2014 POTD Thread Archive

Finished the posts and beams for the shed, now the knee braces. Have to saw more material for them.
Quality control seams to aprove.

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Greg

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Just finished up this little project. Making a little spindle index for the lathe from a Bridgeport dial. Had to make a gauge to match my spindle to fit the internal threads to also. Plus it figures after I make the gauge I find a 1.5 x 8 plug gauge at the used tool store for $20. What are the chances. Anyway here are the pictures and of course videos.

Part 1 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mSVzAd21e1k&list=UUG0Oeg2KLMmgFzcsoCUYdeQ

Part 2 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sq_jKLDtZYE&feature=youtu.be


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Really nice camera work, the close ups, overhead shots and fast forward show your processes extremely well. Thanks for taking the time(again!) to make more great tutorial vids. Oh yeah, this project itself was interesting and came out very nice.

Brian
 
Really nice camera work, the close ups, overhead shots and fast forward show your processes extremely well. Thanks for taking the time(again!) to make more great tutorial vids. Oh yeah, this project itself was interesting and came out very nice.

Brian

I totally agree with calstar. I especially enjoyed the demo of measuring threads over wires.
Very concise.

Uncle Harry
 
I didn't get as much done in the shop over the weekend as I had originally planned due to the fact that my son bought a non-running 02 Duramax truck Friday night and I was helping him to diagnose it for a while Saturday morning. I will admit though, I was enjoying my Saturday. It rained here all day and my son and I were working in the shop with the radio on and goofing around and I really enjoyed helping him on his new to him truck. Days like that are hard to come by as he gets older and has a life of his own with school, work and friends. I cherish those times I get to spend with him more and more as I get older. I don't know what I will do when he moves out on his own.

Anyway, I had a couple of projects that I was working on and then when he needed a hand or had a question I would drop and help him. I didn't get anything completed on Saturday but screw it, I had the best Saturday I have had in a while. I didn't want the day to end, we opened up the shop and started a 8:00 am and finally went in the house @ 6:30pm when my wife informed us that dinner was ready. Didn't get either project done so I finished them up Monday night.

I had a blind that came crashing down in our coach the week before when my wife and I took a quick trip up to West Yellowstone and met some friends for a long weekend. The road between Ashton, ID and Island Park, ID has been under construction for nearly a year now and although they are getting closer it is still a mess. There is about an 8" drop off from the new pavement to the old within about a 3' taper with the "BUMP" sign placed about 10' before the drop off. Then again coming back up to grade about a quarter of a mile further, 8" rise in about 3' with the "BUMP" sign right AT the bump this time. A 40k pound coach doesn't like that very much.

Upon the drop off the co-pilot Carefree power blind came crashing down and put a nice little nick in my dash as well as scared the crap out of my wife and I. I found a wide spot to pull over and removed it until we got to the campground. Upon inspection the plastic tab on the end was allowed to flex which pulled it out from under the screw head. I could have merely reinstalled in and been fine but that isn't the way I do things. The coach has 95k miles on it now and has never given me a problem but I want to make sure it NEVER comes down again.

I used a piece of 2"x3"x1/4" wall aluminum square tubing to make the new mount. I figured I may as well make two of them and redo the driver's side as well before it does the same thing. Here I trued up the piece of tubing.
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I cut the little plastic ear off of the end of the blind, near the motor.
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And here is the new mount machined and installed on the blind. I used the same screw holes as original I just replaced the screws with slightly longer ones.
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I rehung the blinds in the coach and they feel much more secure than prior. Hopefully I will never have that issue again.

Next up was a Magnuson supercharger that a guy brought me off of his Honda Civic that he races. Evidently the pulley was loose on the shaft and it took out the keyseat and woodruff key. He brought me just the front half of the supercharger so I had to press the shaft out of the front housing.
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Here is what the keyseat in the shaft looked like.
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Pressed the input shaft apart. The end that drives the internal gears and the bearing press off.
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Shaft, drive end and bearing pressed apart.
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The pulley keyway was buggered up as well. However, this was some crap aluminum, I am guessing some form of 30xx series aluminum because it didn't want to weld for crap. Originally I had thought I would weld it up and then broach a new 1/8" keyway in it. Well I had to regroup and go to plan "B". There was .018" clearance between the shaft OD and pulley ID so the clearance had to be taken up somehow. I thought about machining a sleeve and then boring the pulley and pressing the sleeve into it but once I broached the keyway that would weaken it considerably. I then decided seeing as how I had to weld up the damaged woodruff keyseat in the shaft, I may as well build up the diameter of the shaft and turn it down to match the pulley.
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Masked and beadblasted prior to breaking out the TIG welder.
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First pass, root of the keyseat.
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Second pass I did a weave pass to try to completely cover the worn keyseat.
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I then proceeded around the entire shaft in increments to avoid getting too hot. Building up the shaft using ER-70S2 TIG rod.
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In between helping my son and heating up the shaft, I trued up the bore in the pulley due to it being worn uneven.
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Then got out the broach set and found the correct size.
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Then broached a 3/16" keyway in the pulley.
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Pulley complete.
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After the shaft had cooled I turned it down to a couple thousandths less than the bore of the pulley.
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Set it up in the mill vise in preparation for cutting the keyseat.
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Found center of the shaft, zeroed the knee and took a .010" test cut on the shaft.
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Keyseat complete.
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Cut a piece of keystock and inserted it for test fit.
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Test fit pulley, keystock and shaft as an assembly.
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Pressed the bearing back on the shaft, the drive end on the shaft and pressed the input shaft assembly into the front housing. Then installed the pulley and keystock.

Unit complete and ready to call the client to pick it up.
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A tiny project. I needed some sort of gun rack for my treestand but as I'm already struggling to carry the thing into the woods, I needed to take the minimalist approach. I don't think it could have been any smaller than this;

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I made these threaded plugs I needed for a small project I put in shop made tooling. Turned out pretty easy and I had never seen it before so I'll post it it here.

Stainless steel cap head screw with two stainless steel nuts loctited on. Two other nuts used to hold it in the chuck and removed later. This way I got the threaded plug I needed and still able to use the hex key slot to tighten.

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Here is what it was for:

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Still not metal projects to show, but fished the knee braces for the shed. Soon be assembly time.
Seamed to easy cutting parts that I can put on the saw.

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Greg

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I'm just finishing up a carriage stop I made for my Grizzly G4003G. It has a hard stop and a dial indicator mount. I realize this is a hack job compared to some of the beautiful stops presented in this forum but I don't have a milling machine and so all my milling happens on my lathe or it doesn't happen at all. I was in the wind trying to figure out how to make the angled cut to hug the V-way but finally came up with a solution. I milled a square notch and welded a piece of angle into it to conform to the v-way. It fits like a glove. I'm just presenting this here in case there are other mill-less members trying to figure out a way around this problem.

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