2014 POTD Thread Archive

I have been gathering parts to add a second motor to my lathe
the original drive setup will not go any slower than 150 rpm and at times, threading can be a bit nerve racking.
I have a dc gear reduction motor that turns 200rpm at max speed and I'm going to make a mount to install it on the lathe and use it as needed. I have a power supply ordered and the pwm dc speed control. The motor has a built in electric brake to stop instantly. I may also make an adjustable carriage stop with a limit switch?
Today I made the pulley for the motor... I know pulleys are cheap but where is the fun in buying one.
Steve

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My wife has bought real old chandeliers to hang in the house. They are all about WWI. The bakelite bulb socket just had the threads turn into powder. I managed to turn the old socket true and make a brass insert with light bulb threads in it(called knuckle threads). If anyone needs to know,there are 7 TPI on a standard light bulb socket. I have glued it in with J.B. Weld(It will stand 600 degrees!) Tomorrow I'll re assemble the old chandelier. At least the threads cannot turn to powder again.
 
My wife has bought real old chandeliers to hang in the house. They are all about WWI. The bakelite bulb socket just had the threads turn into powder. I managed to turn the old socket true and make a brass insert with light bulb threads in it(called knuckle threads). If anyone needs to know,there are 7 TPI on a standard light bulb socket. I have glued it in with J.B. Weld(It will stand 600 degrees!) Tomorrow I'll re assemble the old chandelier. At least the threads cannot turn to powder again.

C'mon George you know:

:worthless:
 
A little more progress, this is one of the long beams for the middle bay, about 19 feet, had to make a splice but the poor photo quality doesn't show it.

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Greg

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this is a pretty minor project but it saved my butt. i needed a small snap ring plier or at least some small tips. i must have sold mine with the business. im not going to buy another $75 set, it just ain't gonna happen. so, , ,
i have a couple hundred 5" long needle scaler needles( these are great for making little picks or little chisels or whatever) i have no idea the metal comp. but they seem fairly hard.
i heated one up to red hot, thinking that might anneal it, i have no idea if i needed to do that, it just sounded like i should, and into the lathe it went. i had to turn the little tip down to .039/.040 to fit in the snap ring holes. i sharpened up a cheap carbide tool with the harbor freight diamond impregnated file and started machining off .005 per cut. no problem.

i then turned the needle end for end and this time i cut about .030 per pass. again, no problem.
then it was removed from lathe and heated one end at a time, red + hot and dipped into casenet (sp) powder, reheated and cooled slowly, then chopped to the proper length and installed into the pliers.

i did the test and it was just great. don';t you just love it when a plan comes together, and only cost is your time ?

now i can go back to cutting the aluminum, using my old time craftsman horz / vert. band saw.
 
I love reading all these posts, so many different ways of doing things!

Here's another little split clamp widget that I finished today. A lot simpler than the other ones (although I still managed to drill the holes off center, grr!) but still some degree of precision required. It's made to clamp onto the chainstay bridge of my commuter bike and act as a mounting point for the end of the rear mudguard, which rattles like crazy on our crappy roads and drives me batty.

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now I've got all the various clamps done I need to get my anodising set up running, then onto the next job!

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I love reading all these posts, so many different ways of doing things!

Here's another little split clamp widget that I finished today. A lot simpler than the other ones (although I still managed to drill the holes off center, grr!) but still some degree of precision required. It's made to clamp onto the chainstay bridge of my commuter bike and act as a mounting point for the end of the rear mudguard, which rattles like crazy on our crappy roads and drives me batty.

now I've got all the various clamps done I need to get my anodising set up running, then onto the next job!

Matt, how about a pictorial take along during the anodizing process. I've not done any research at all on it but it sure would be handy around the shop on many occasions.
 
Just finished up this little project. Making a little spindle index for the lathe from a Bridgeport dial. Had to make a gauge to match my spindle to fit the internal threads to also. Plus it figures after I make the gauge I find a 1.5 x 8 plug gauge at the used tool store for $20. What are the chances. Anyway here are the pictures and of course videos.

Part 1 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mSVzAd21e1k&list=UUG0Oeg2KLMmgFzcsoCUYdeQ

Part 2 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sq_jKLDtZYE&feature=youtu.be


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Finished my MIG welding fabrication table. Had the base done for a while and was slacking on going to the scrap yard to find a top plate for it. I ended up buying a 1/2" thick mild steel plate for $130, dimensions are 44" x 31" (wanted 44 x 32 but couldn't complain they had one already cut within 1 inch of my wanted size).

The top has aprox 4" overhang on the table allowing me to use a C clamp most of the time, but I wanted the ability to clamp almost anywhere so I decided to drill and tap a grid. Rented a 3/4" mag drill from Hertz construction rental and went crazy with drilling and tapping holes. Total of 50 holes drilled and power tapped to 1/2"-13 with 8 through holes to bolt the table down with 1/2" countersunk bolts (yes I realized this was overkill when I went to countersink up to 1" diameter for the countersunk heads). Managed to only use on center drill, one drill bit and one spiral point tap during the whole process.

Now I'm able to use step block clamps typically used on a milling machine for clamping anywhere I want on the table. 1/2-13 set screws remain in the threaded holes not used to avoid slag getting into the threads. Also added slip fit type modular mounting for my bandsaw and vise which allows me to easily remove them for oversized parts.

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that's a really tidy table!

Matt, how about a pictorial take along during the anodizing process. I've not done any research at all on it but it sure would be handy around the shop on many occasions.

will do, although it won't be very interesting. It's mostly "put part in here for x time at y temp, then put in there for.. etc". It would actually be a neat bit of homework for me to write it out so I have all the chemicals ready and have a list of instructions in front of me. I was (as always) extremely lucky to get the whole kit minus the powersupply given to me before I left my last job, so all I've had to do is source the chemicals and plug stuff in.
 
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