2014 POTD Thread Archive

[savarin]

Made some new hanging brackets for my 2 y/o nephews crib that his jumping keeps breaking. The bottom one was made by my sisters friend out of sheet metal and lasted only a short time made mine out of 1/8th steel so it wont break... I hope

A two year old? then they should be made from 3/8" titanium :rofl:

 

[pipehack]

After years of using a bench grinder while kneeling I decided to finally make a stand. I went to my local Metals Supermarket and the guy there sold me some 3/8" plate cut offs and a piece of 4" steel pipe. I sprayed it with Rustoleum Silver Hammered finish.
Oh yeah. I had to add a Holman Moody sticker to it. Why? Why not.

 

[GarageGuy]

Made some new hanging brackets for my 2 y/o nephews crib that his jumping keeps breaking. The bottom one was made by my sisters friend out of sheet metal and lasted only a short time made mine out of 1/8th steel so it wont break... I hope

Sounds like maybe a future football player!

GG

 

[zmotorsports]

After years of using a bench grinder while kneeling I decided to finally make a stand. I went to my local Metals Supermarket and the guy there sold me some 3/8" plate cut offs and a piece of 4" steel pipe. I sprayed it with Rustoleum Silver Hammered finish.
Oh yeah. I had to add a Holman Moody sticker to it. Why? Why not.

Very nice. Looks great.

Mike.

 

[savarin]

Finished my ball turner today. Not the most beautiful finished tool but it works.
Why a triangular base you may ask? because I had 100mm wide steel but my 4 jaw chuck wont take a 100mm square so I cut an equilateral triangle and used the 3 jaw to hold that. A friend milled the large slot in the holder and cleaned up the "L" part of the tool holder but everything else was cut with an angle grinder, that left a heap of filing. I bent the handle between 3 round bars in the vice. A large 14mm countersunk head bolt holds the 2 parts together.
The tool bit is 6mm.


I think I need to shorten the length of the tool holder so it can get closer to the chuck.
first test, a small brass minaret, 12mm dia, it should have been a ball :shush:but obviously I dont know how to correctly use it yet.


second test a 10mm stainless bolt with a concave headhew:

 

[HACKMASTER]

looks great but the hone the tool a little looks like you wore the stone out

Cool projects and really great pictorial of the process. For me good pics are worth more than the "1000 words".

thanks, Brian

 

[Hawkeye]

It looks like the slot in the rotating part is on the centre line, but the bit holder is offset. In addition, the HSS is ground with the cutting tip even further from centre. The cutting tip needs to be as close to the rotational centre line as possible, in order to get a round ball. If you grind a bit with the tip angled to the other side, it could counter the offset of the toolholder slot.

In use, the rotational centre needs to end up directly below the centre of the lathe axis. Set the carriage up so that the tip will end up just cutting into the end of the rod when the ball is finished. All of the movement during the cutting is done with the crossfeed. Lock the carriage before you start cutting.

 

[Cheeseking]

Finally after 1 year sitting in 50 pc's in my shop, decided to put my Harig 612 SG back together. Very happy the lube circ pump actually works! Now I need to get it off the transport dolly and parked in its final destination. Then get my 3-phase panel done and run an outlet to it. Then a dust collector. Yep. Another 2 years I'll be grinding!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Propfool]

Got my Marquette stick welder working. Bought it off CL for $100. It dates probably to WWII. The holdup was putting in a 50A circuit and new wiring and an outlet as it has a lot of horsepower.

It came with a ton of electrodes so I've been burning them yesterday trying to get the hang of stick welding. The electrodes stick to the steel a lot on first contact but once I get it going it lays a heavy bead of weld and is a joy to use. Guess I just need to practice more.

I tried a plain coathanger to see what it would do and it fried the coat hanger in half a second

Try using 7014 "contact rod" welding rods. The flux is rigid enough to maintain the proper arc distance as you drag it across the welding surface. Allows a ham-fisted welder to look like a pro. (Little skill is required to make a very good looking bead.) After each pass, one has to break off the flux to expose the electrode in order to re-establish the arc. Dragging the rod across a cement floor (or a small piece of Hardie cement board on your welding table) will do the trick.
The Harbor Freight electronic welding helmets (under $40 on sale) are wonderful for a new or old weldor.

 

[savarin]

It looks like the slot in the rotating part is on the centre line, but the bit holder is offset.

it is, I modeled it in 3d and animated it, the only difference the placement of the point of the tool made was in the starting point. However, I think having it on the centre line makes aligning it to start correctly easier.

In addition, the HSS is ground with the cutting tip even further from centre. The cutting tip needs to be as close to the rotational centre line as possible, in order to get a round ball. If you grind a bit with the tip angled to the other side, it could counter the offset of the toolholder slot.

This was a mistake I made as the tool bit was semi preground this side (lazy me) I corrected it today and definitely better.

In use, the rotational centre needs to end up directly below the centre of the lathe axis. Set the carriage up so that the tip will end up just cutting into the end of the rod when the ball is finished. All of the movement during the cutting is done with the crossfeed. Lock the carriage before you start cutting.

This is what I did wrong thanks, my attempt today was better, still not perfect but getting there.