2014 POTD Thread Archive

[DAN_IN_MN]

I've got an older OMC Stringer '76 that I need to replace a bearing or two. I should get that one up and running one of these summers. Instead of using U-joints, they used ball gears which allows the lower unit the tilt motion.

The 4 cylinder Chevy 120 HP is in excellent condition.

I also need to replace the wood that the engine mounts on.

 

[LEEQ]

That's cool, makes me think I should change the rubber water pump in my outboard. 40hp merc tiller.
Edit: The outboard is in great shape, just got me thinking about a little p.m.

If it was in good shape you might just wait till spring and replace the vanes. They don't weather real well and cost so little.( says the guy who didn't and had to pick the pieces out of everywhere after it failed on the lake.))

 

[hman]

Combined two pieces of junk/scrap into a useful tool today. The first part was a chef's knife sharpening steel - kinda looked worn out, but I recall thinking it might be a nice grade of steel when I picked it up at a Goodwill a while ago. The second was a nylon-faced hammer head I picked up along with some other stuff at a machine shop going-out-of-business sale three days ago. I figured I could fabricate the missing handle out of something I had lying around.

As it turned out, the thru hole in the hammer head was an odd size, and didn't easily fit any of the stock I had. But the chef's steel was just a bit wider. I'd assumed it was some kind of very hard steel, but I was (happily) wrong. I was able to cut it to length with a hacksaw. Then I milled the width to the nominal dimension of the thru hole, belt sanded the sharp edges to curved surfaces with just a bit of taper, and hammered the head on. I'd originally thought I'd need Liquid Metal or something similar to hold them together, but the head seems very secure at the moment.

The plastic handle fits my hand nicely, and hanging ring will probably come in handy, too.

 

[LEEQ]

View attachment 69178 I made a dohickey

 

[jpfabricator]

Is that a "wigglin pin" for the "wobblin shaft" ? Lol

Sent from my H866C using Tapatalk 2

 

[Walltoddj]

Been in the shop for the last three hours trying in vain to clean it. Did find one of my heat problems though the flex hose came loose so this time screwed and taped I hope it stays this time.

• hew:
  

Todd

 

[ARM]

Hey aRM - this is a cultural thing. When a North American says "shop" he means workshop, not a place you buy stuff. So a "shop made" thing is what you (or the ROW) would describe as "home made". Confusing, I know.

Muzzer (Brit living in Canada)

Hi there Muzzer
Know the "shop made" thingy lingo. We are all some kind of "Home Shop Machinists", or so we would like to think of ourselves, excluding the ol' Pros !!!
However, at that time we could not find the post. Another good Guy kindly posted the link
Thanks to all U well-meaning Guys here. Much appreciated.
LORD BLESS
aRM

 

[jvillads]

I started to true up the faceplate that came with my lathe last night. Tonight I will mill the slots true as they are just rought cast as it is.

 

[markknx]

I made a tool to quickly center the rotary table on the mill and arts on the rotary table for non critical work like rounding corners, or radius slots. were a few .001 are of no matter. I made one before and I may have posted it but I think I improved on this one by making the pin smaller so I can use it on small holes. I can drill a small hole mount the part cut the radius and then drill the part out to the size i need. If the hole is already in a part, or needs to be drilled to size in another operation, no Big deal I can just make a bushing.

The first one I made is shown also and still has use as a center.

One other thing I did on the new one is the pin is bolted on so it can be removed for a transfer punch style insert so it can be used from a center punch. Thought, Is this good or bad, How

Mark

 

[Pmedic828]

I ordered a complete board and sensor on ebay for an RPM indicator for my lathe. The meter uses a 12 volt dc supply like the ones that are used on a portable battery light, phone charger, etc. After making a faceplate from an old caliper box for the display, on - off switch, and another switch to change sensors, I drilled and mounted the faceplate to a double electrical junction box. I mounted the sensor by drilling out an angle bracket to 1/2 inch. The other side, I drilled a hole to allow the angle bracket to mount to an existing screw holding my plastic guard over my lathe chuck. The magnet seen in the pictures, is just a medium strong magnet stuck to the chuck mounting - (I will epoxy or use RTV to mount this magnet to make a permanent installation after testing and to keep it from flying off (I have spun the chuck about 500 rpm and the magnet stayed in place. You need to align the sensor so that the magnet is within 10mm or about 1/4 inch of the sensor. I am still testing the accuracy but seems to agree with other Tachometers within 1-2 rpm. (I was surprised that all my preset speeds were about 50 RPM faster than stated. I have taken some pics for the install and the best thing is that this project was under $30 in cost. (I had the power supply and switches but you can order the switches from ebay where I got the Tachometer board for around $1.50 each - the board was about $15.00, and you can find these plug-in 12 VDC 1 amp power supplies from places like flea markets for around $2. I took about 3 hours to solder the connections, but I wanted to be able to switch sensors as I have a drill press, and a Milling machine that can use the same board - just add sensors for about $5.00 each!
See my Pics Following:


This is the sensor and the magnet that is mounted on the chuck.
This is the magnet with power supplied and positioned for pickup


(red light on and blinks for each pulse and


Display mounted with green on / off switch Other switch switches sensors (If you need more for different machines)


Measuring 136 RPM - Display holds pretty steady - within 4 RPM
:thumbzup:


Now to install yours on your favorite rotating machine!
:high5: