2013 POTD Thread Archive

[Mike94531]

Made up some parts for a Got-Trikes tubing bender. I've had the plans for a few years or more, finally decided to build one. Luckily most all the raw stock was free from a machine shop that was taking excess to the recyclers and let me grab a few hundred pounds of assorted pieces since I helped them move to a new location. I've had to make adjustments for not having 100% correct sizes.

The parts you see with all the holes are supposed to be 5/8" thick, all I had was 3/4" thick. Not a deal breaker at all. The plans call for only one corner to have a .50" radius, I added on to each corner, thought it would look a little better.

One of the pictures shows me using a Rotabroach cutter in an ER collect, seemed work fine and beats paying $75 for an adapter. The cutter was free, I friend found 2 of them on the local BART train and had no use for them. Not sure if a mechanic for BART dropped them or a passenger or ?

 

[churchjw]

This weekend I made my second slotted screw using a cutoff blade mounted in the tool post and running the cross slide like a shaper. Man does that work great. This time I locked the saddle and used the compound rest set at 29 degrees to move the tool into the work for each pass. This worked much better that moving the saddle to move the tool into the work and seamed to be more stable over all so a much cleaner cut.



Also cast the base for my vintage fan project. I got it on the lathe and cleaned up. I will post the entire project when I get the fan finished.



The hardest part of the fan project so far has been painting. I just don't paint well.

Jeff

 

[Farmer Dodds]

Hope to see pics of the finished tubing bender all together. Looks good so far. A little heavier will make sure it does not bend before the pipe.

Stan

 

[cascao]

I had added an 2" dial to my tailstock

 

[Maxx]

Made a new swing arm for the chaffer on the combine, old one was hacked by a previous owner......
New is $60 and not in stock locally (as if I'd spend the $60). :rofl:
I did buy the rubber bushings though.

Cut 2 holes:



Enlarged holes for an interference fit for some pipe I cut to size:





Pressed, cleaned and ready for welding and paint after supper, old one on top obviously:



You gotta love the work of a hack, probably a quick fix to keep running but never fixed it right after the harvest ended.

 

[blaser.306]

Had a chance to spend some time on this holiday monday making myself a couple of case expander dies for loading cast-boolits ( "M" die ) . More of an excersise in threading and learning how to use the knurling tool that came with my QCTP.
The Material used was 1" CRS , I am fairly happy with the surface finnish as it was before the threading and knurling. All cuts were made with HSS that I think I am finnaly getting a reasonable grasp on grinding. Many thanks to all here that post vid's and info for both of these operations. For newbies and self learners like myself!

 

[markknx]

I think Isee your phone under all them chips

Today, I finally got around to making a mold to make bolt buffers for Ruger 10/22 rifles. Sorry...I didn't take a whole ton of pictures between the facing and the completed product because I'd misplaced my phone. Anyway..here's what I've got.

Facing operation...done with my home made fly cutter which takes a 1/2" HSS tool bit. This thing produces mirror finishes on aluminum. I didn't have to do any other finishing on the work piece.




The finished mold. The cavities are 1/4". The locating dowels (3) were made from 1/4" rod with the end slightly deformed in my vise so they would be tight in the holes...put a little bit of green loctite in there as well. The groove along the top to hold the excess liquid rubber is about a 1/2" deep...cut that with a 9/16" end mill....and then 2 x 1/4-20 bolts, some wing nuts, and washers to hold it closed.








And finally, the first batch of buffers.



Oh...almost forgot...made a muzzle brake (more ornamental than anything) for my buddies SKS rifle. Made it out of alum. since he was painting the whole thing flat black anyway.

 

[outsider347]

cavebob

what type of a power supply did you use for your gear motor?
Where can I get one?
tks

 

[caveBob]

cavebob

what type of a power supply did you use for your gear motor?
Where can I get one?
tks

Hi outsider347,

Maybe someone with good electrical knowledge/experience will chime in on this, mine is very limited. Anyway, this is what I ended up with and prolly a little overkill:

Sola SDP 2-24-100T Power Supply ~$25 + shipping
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sola-SDP-2-24-100T-Power-Supply-Used-Nice-/261237583005

Even though you could use something as simple/cheap as a windshield wiper motor, I really like the brushless motor with the instant reverse feature. You can drive it nice and slow to just kiss the shoulder then reverse it out without crashing. hth, & post a pic when you're done k...

fwiw, if you find another Dunkermotoren, the wiring was easy enough even for me to do:



I asked someone how/where do you hook up the Jog switch and here is the pic they gave:



Sadly, the jog feature doesn't work, but like I said, my electrical knowledge is lacking...

Oh... the other stuff you'll need: 5k potentiometer, on/off switch + 2 SPDT switches (RadioShack?)

 

[Maxx]

Worked on the combine and needed a 1/2" hex bit but couldn't find it in the main tool box so....
Instead of taking time to go to the store or milling one out and not having any 1/2" hex stock I grabbed a 5/16 grade 5 bolt and a few grade 5 nuts.
Tightened all the nuts one at a time on the bolt til the corners were all lined up and welded the end nut to the bolt with the MIG then used a 1/2" socket and breaker bar on one end.
My dad came by while I was working on the chaffer swing arms and I had him hold the breaker bar while I tightened up from the other side.
He noticed my homemade hex bit then embarrassingly told me he used the hex driver bit and forgot to return it but did like my solution to the problem. :lmao: