1st,& 2nd knurl

[darkzero]

I just realized you can order direct from their site! Thanks
But can you tell me what pitch knurl this is:
View attachment 313717
That is stunning.
Robert

Thanks. That was a finer pitch than I normally use. I'll check the exact pitch when I get home.

These are forming knurls too right?

Yes, eveything I have been posting were form knurls. Haven't played with my cut knurlers yet.

 

[mmcmdl]

Accu-traks here for me also . I have the beveled and straight sets depending on what needs to be done .

 

[mmcmdl]

Practice material, bolt shoulders from the die?

38 3/8-16 x 2 inch grade 8 SHCSs hold this together . Die is 17-4ph stainless heat treated to 48RC . We run it 4 hrs a week and then strip it down , bake it out , polish it out and re-assemble . Go thru alot of bolts ! This is one of our smaller dies .

 

[rwm]

Will- What do you normally use?
R

 

[darkzero]

Will- What do you normally use?
R

The one above that you asked about I used 40 TPI, 5/8". That's a pretty fine knurl IMO so I don't use 40 TPI on anything larger than 5/8" dia.

I use 21 TPI more often on diameters between 5/8" - 1". Most of the other examples I posted the past few days or so were 21 TPI. To be specific, 30° angle & 90° tooth angle. Same for the single diagonal knurls I do.

 

[rwm]

Cool. I'm going to buy some better wheels. I also need to rebuild my chinese knurler so the arms are straight! Or build one from scratch. Of course it may be cheaper and easier to contract the work out to Will!

 

[Aukai]

I cannot seem to get the resolution for the pictures like Will does, but here are tries 3&4 with power feed. Talk about a circus, but here's how it went. As advertised the 6061 is more forgiving, and will be a serviceable knurl. I do need to work more on my chamfering, on the 6061 I put a quarter of the wheel on the shoulder, tightened, and hand rolled until I was happy with the pattern, put lots of oil engaged the power feed, then turned the lathe on, and let it run. Disengaged, and turned it off at the end of the run. This step did not work well on the steel piece. On the steel piece disengaging before turning off the lathe left a visible stripe showing at the end. I think killing the RPM first may stop that, I'll see next time. I did the same start up procedure after taking a skim cut off of the steel bar, in another thread Mikey says that it may take away some of the surface hardness from shaping the bar. So carriage is engaged, start the lathe on the steel bar, and the clutch starts popping, stopped the process in place, then backed off the piece. tightened up the clutch, reengaged the wheels at about the same tightness(it shows different), then started it up, and let it run. At the end is where I think I'll change the order, and see if it makes a difference. I disengaged travel, then killed power, kill the power, disengage, back it off is what I'll try next. Sorry this gets a little redundant, I'm not quite as eloquent as our teachers are. Hope it might be helpful to someone, still a long way to go.....
The top piece is the steel, the bottom is 6061

 

[mikey]

Getting better, Mike. Instead of stopping the lathe, why not let it run and feed back out?

On the steel piece, it looks like the pattern is well formed at the beginning and then gets less and less formed as you go down the rod. I wonder if your feed rate is too fast?

 

[Aukai]

I may have to slow it down, that is where the clutch was popping, and it ran longer there. Are you saying to stop, and reverse rotation?

 

[mikey]

No, just disengage power feed and crank it back out manually.