1984 Crown Lathe (Honden) - Wiring Help Please

Someone has been messing around in there haven't they? Has the stop button been bypassed? I see (I think) three wires on #22 and none on #14
-M
 
markba633csi said:
Someone has been messing around in there haven't they? Has the stop button been bypassed? I see (I think) three wires on #22 and none on #14
-M
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Part of it was me lol. That picture of the stop button is deceiving, only red and yellow are actually on #22.
 
markba633csi said:
Hey! Cool news! You'll have fun with that
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Thanks. Its definitely quite the event when the contactors latch. They flutter a little, not sure if a transformer would clean that up. A VFD would be a dream...maybe some day. One of these days I'll pickup a current clamp....or an oscilloscope. I'm curious how high the in-rush current actually is.

Time to start thinking about a path to 240V...other than a shortcut using my super long outdoor welding extension cord lol.
 
Probably the high current surge from the motor is tweaking the AC waveform into a pretzel momentarily. As long as it eventually latches.
That will most likely vanish when you convert to 240 V since the current will be halved
Remember when you do convert you need to connect one of the (formerly flying) yellow leads to neutral instead of power so that the control box is still powered by 120 volts.
-M
 
markba633csi said:
Probably the high current surge from the motor is tweaking the AC waveform into a pretzel momentarily. As long as it eventually latches.
That will most likely vanish when you convert to 240 V since the current will be halved
Remember when you do convert you need to connect one of the (formerly flying) yellow leads to neutral instead of power so that the control box is still powered by 120 volts.
-M
Click to expand...
I won't forget.

So it turns out the fwd/off/reverse selector isn't working, so the e-stop is currently more of an on/off. I do think that cleaning up the coil voltage waveform would help, but like you said, 240V should make an improvement as well.

I would test it using my 240V welding extension,....but rewiring the box for 240, and the motor windings as well, is more effort than I want for a quick experiment.
 
So the latching function isn't actually working it sounds like? Yeah you have more troubleshooting to do. You really want the e-stop to function as it should
At least you know it runs though
 
markba633csi said:
So the latching function isn't actually working it sounds like? Yeah you have more troubleshooting to do. You really want the e-stop to function as it should
Click to expand...
yeah...I plan to inspect/remove the reversing circuit. At least I could clean up some light aluminum stock if I needed to.
 
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