1984 Crown Lathe (Honden) - Wiring Help Please

[PancakeCritter]

I just reposted- check post #18 again

Yes, I removed all wiring to the coils. I kind of thought the same, but my Fluke read 77.7 on both coils, not even a marginal difference between the two. Maybe they're bad?

 

[markba633csi]

It does seem too close to be believable- let me cogitate on this for a bit and get back to you- what model Fluke is it?
Looks like you have some repairs to do on the gearbox lever and the steady rest- the machine had a rough ride it looks like
-M

 

[PancakeCritter]

It does seem too close to be believable- let me cogitate on this for a bit and get back to you- what model Fluke is it?
Looks like you have some repairs to do on the gearbox lever and the steady rest- the machine had a rough ride it looks like
-M

Fluke 117.

Yeah it does appear so, but I basically stole it from an estate sale LOL. I don't have much to lose, but I plan to restore a lot of it over time.

 

[PancakeCritter]

It does seem too close to be believable- let me cogitate on this for a bit and get back to you- what model Fluke is it?
Looks like you have some repairs to do on the gearbox lever and the steady rest- the machine had a rough ride it looks like
-M

While I was in there, I also checked the contactor configuration. It’s 4NO 1NC. The middle terminal is NC and powers the respective coil, depending on the fed/reverse switch.

While looking for an adequate 100/110V transformer, I’m beginning to wonder if I shouldn’t just update the contactors with a 24V coil and matching transformer. Thoughts? Is a solid state contactor an option too?


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[macardoso]

While I was in there, I also checked the contactor configuration. It’s 4NO 1NC. The middle terminal is NC and powers the respective coil, depending on the fed/reverse switch.

While looking for an adequate 100/110V transformer, I’m beginning to wonder if I shouldn’t just update the contactors with a 24V coil and matching transformer. Thoughts? Is a solid state contactor an option too?


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I'd just go for a 120VAC coil. No XFMR or power supply required. Contactors are cheap.

Solid state are available but you never see them used for motor starting.

 

[PancakeCritter]

If that’s the case, the current coil is 110VAC. Seems like 120V should be fine, no? Less than 10% over design rating.


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[macardoso]

If that’s the case, the current coil is 110VAC. Seems like 120V should be fine, no? Less than 10% over design rating.


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I would think that would be OK. Coils might run a bit warm with shorter life, but you can do it.

 

[PancakeCritter]

I would think that would be OK. Coils might run a bit warm with shorter life, but you can do it.

That's my thought. And new coils would cost about what I paid for it, so if they fail its a forced upgrade.

 

[markba633csi]

I didn't look at the picture closely enough and didn't realize the coils are rated 100-110 volts
It should be safe to run them straight off 120 volts and don't need to use a transformer as long as the machine itself is well grounded
My eyesight is getting worse in my old age LOL

Yes you could convert the system over to 24 volts with a transformer but you would have to change out all the indicator light bulbs too- kind of a lot of work you probably would rather avoid

I still am scratching my head at the ohms reading you got- it's a mystery. Those two flying yellow wires would connect to the R and S power input terminals I think

 

[PancakeCritter]

I didn't look at the picture closely enough and didn't realize the coils are rated 100-110 volts
It should be safe to run them straight off 120 volts and don't need to use a transformer as long as the machine itself is well grounded
My eyesight is getting worse in my old age LOL

Yes you could convert the system over to 24 volts with a transformer but you would have to change out all the indicator light bulbs too- kind of a lot of work you probably would rather avoid

I still am scratching my head at the ohms reading you got- it's a mystery. Those two flying yellow wires would connect to the R and S power input terminals I think

Correct, the two flying yellows are S and R wires.

My plan to is first verify that S is hot and R is neutral.

The yellow S hot will power the #1 terminal into the emergency shut-off.

The blue wire is returning from the power status light, as a neutral correct?

#2 terminal is both coils tied together. So I think I need to connect the R flyer neutral here.

The top of #3 should remain empty, with the bottom red wires traveling hot from emergency stop to reverse switch.

#4 is hot to FWD coil and #5 is hot to Reverse coil, assuming the jolt button is designed to turn the spindle forward.

Disclaimer: The wiring in the image below is obviously incorrect.