I had an old mitsubishi lancer ('89?) that refused to rev very high when cold, almost like it choked up, until I set the valve gaps properly. Then it was just fine. Something else to think about.
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1982 Lada Niva
- Thread starter GoceKU
- Start date
I'm suspecting the ignition advance, the carburetor has mechanical secondary barrel, and anything over 1/3 throttle secondary starts to open, and first thing i checked is that full throttle opens both butterflies in the carburetor fully. As for the mixture right here at 11,5 to 12,2 is the happiest any more propane it starts to get lazy and crackles more thru the exhaust off the throttle. As for the choke, i've connected the preheater and turned the air cleaner to suck hot air so i'm not getting that problem anymore. Is there a way to check is the distributor advancing and what to expect in degrees?
yup. that was what I was about to say 
Or refit the car with a 1 litre 3 cylinder turbo from a Ford Fiesta
Or refit the car with a 1 litre 3 cylinder turbo from a Ford Fiesta
Matt, I've adjusted the valves with a dial indicator and i'm pretty sure they are set right, it idles nicely and has factory compression, you can see how i made the tool and set the valves on this thread : https://www.hobby-machinist.com/thr...did-you-make-in-your-shop-today.67833/page-39Or refit the car with a 1 litre 3 cylinder turbo from a Ford Fiesta
As for swapping in 1.0 ecoboost YYJA Or YYJB no chance, i rather swap in diesel or a V6 something bigger than a coke bottle, i do like boost but there's nothing like the immediate torque of a large engine.
good point, thought it was worth suggesting just in case. Ignition advance seems like a likely culprit. I wonder if it would be worth checking the fuel pump - can carbs be fuel starved at higher revs? Can't be a vacuum issue or you'd have a terrible idle.
Just kidding about the ecoboost, harking back to a conversation about engine swaps we all had a while ago
Just kidding about the ecoboost, harking back to a conversation about engine swaps we all had a while ago
I think at the higher rpm range the air intake is cooling the combustion chamber to below the point where the fuel can be properly consumed because of the amount of lpg needed to produce energy equivalent to gasoline. Which in a way points to how well the fuel is being atomized or not as i suspect may be the case in this situation which is causing the problem you are having.
It seems you haven't followed my trip with this vehicle, i do have two separate fuel systems on it, standard petrol using the stock carburetor, fuel pump, gas tank, then i have an additional high pressure Propane tank in the boot, copper line to the engine bay, evaporator, mixer and couple of safety items and valves. I also have a Air/fuel gauge and vacuum gauge i'm sure i have enough fuel. Don't mind the 17.8 OF that picture was taken when tuning the carburetor i've set it right now.
Today i connected a timing light and it seems the ignition advance only moves 2-3 degrees, barely moves when changing the RPM's. This was enough for me to jump in my car and go buy an entire new contactless ignition system, it wasn't cheap but is OEM and i also bought an extra hall effect sensor for the distributor, i have spare coils, and ignition modules i'll keep them in the little Niva just in case. Tomorrow I'll stop by the parts store and buy new HT leads, and new spark plugs, that way i'll have all new parts. The new distributor has mechanical and vacuum advance, so i need to run a vacuum line for it. More to come.
Today i finally found the time to get the rest of parts for the ignition on the little niva. I bought two sets of HT leads, and three sets of spark plugs, i also went thru my spares, found me a bosch electronic ignition coil, and a spare ignition module, the plan is to install two coils, two modules, in case i have a problem i can just switch them.
