12" Atlas Reverse Tumbler Gear Stud

paul s said:
Brass shim stock wrapped around the bushing will keep the bushing centered, and drilling the hole with the bushing installed, I could lightly drill a depression in the bushing so that the setscrew wouldn't have to be tightened down much. A little blue loctite on the setscrew, and done.

Or just shim stock and loctite - is the bushing oilite? If so, I suppose that rules out gluing it in.
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Well, its your machine. But I have never had any luck with shim stock that was too thin to itself stand up to being pressed into a bore. What usually happens is that the shim stock will go just a little ways into the bore that you are pressing it into and then it stops going in with the bushing (or shaft or whatever) and just balls up around the outside of the hole. Whereas lightly knurling the OD brings its OD up enough to be a tight fit in the bore without any shim.

As to whether or not the three bushings (one in the gear and two in the pulley) are Oilite or not I don't know for certain. They don't really have to be as there is supposed to be a gap between the two bushings in the pulley into which oil from the oil hole can exit. And from there, it can run fore and aft along the spindle. The gap acts as a reservoir for a while.
 
Finally getting back to this - I ended up using 0.001" brass shim stock in four places around the bore of the gear to keep things centered and take up some gap. Held it all together with Permatex sleeve retaining compound. It's not coming apart again, at least not without some intention.

Now I'm putting the headstock back together, and I would like the lathe to start it's new life with a fresh spindle belt.
The original is marked "S7-126". I measured it two ways: by making a mark and rolling it - 31.5"; by a string around it's OD - 32". An online search wasn't definitive - some sources say 32" (4L320), some say 31" (4L310). Opinions? Or is the tensioner range enough to cover either?
 
As best I've been able to determine, it should be a 4L310. S7-126 says that it was first used on the Shaper, which came out a little before the 101.07403. The 101.07383 spindle belt is shown as L4-126. My guess is that one of them is 31" and the other 32". You could just buy one from Clausing to see. :cool:
 
wa5cab said:
As best I've been able to determine, it should be a 4L310. S7-126 says that it was first used on the Shaper, which came out a little before the 101.07403. The 101.07383 spindle belt is shown as L4-126. My guess is that one of them is 31" and the other 32". You could just buy one from Clausing to see. :cool:
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Yep - but I'd need to take out a 2nd mortgage
RobertB said:
An A29.5 or 4L315 would give you the 31.5" that you measured. These guys (never dealt with them) https://www.vbeltguys.com/products/s7126-atlas-press-oem-equivalent-conventional-v-belt say 32" and vintage machinery says 31" http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/Atlas-V-Belt-P-N-to-Length-Cross-Reference.ashx
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Yep - lots of conflicting information out there.

I think I'll roll the dice and go with a 32" - thanks all!

In the meantime, I've been disassembling the tailstock and can't remove the quill because the quill lock is bound up. I've got the lock handle and bolt removed, but the two lock sleeves are stuck and I can't get them out of the casting. I'm guessing one needs to come out the top, the other out the bottom. I may try to tap and thread the ID on the top one and use a slide hammer or just drill it out and make a new one. Is this another case of the swelling Zamak?
 
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paul s said:
In the meantime, I've been disassembling the tailstock and can't remove the quill because the quill lock is bound up. I've got the lock handle and bolt removed, but the two lock sleeves are stuck and I can't get them out of the casting. I'm guessing one needs to come out the top, the other out the bottom. I may try to tap and thread the ID on the top one and use a slide hammer or just drill it out and make a new one. Is this another case of the swelling Zamak?
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Could be swelling, but also corrosion or over aggressive tightening are possible. You can remove the crank, key, endcap and feed screw. Soak with penetrant and then with a brass punch gently tap the quill fore and aft and see if that will break them loose. Tapping the top one as you suggest could work. You could also remove the anti-rotation bolt and try and twist the quill. Heating the whole assemble a bit may also help. With the quill out both parts will come out of the top.
 
Well, I've got the handwheel off, but the endcap is not moving. I've tried wrapping thick leather around it and using pliers, and I've tried a rounded piece of metal in the radial slots, no go. I'll attach a picture, you've no doubt seen it before; is there a special tool that engages the radiused slots? The piece of metal that I used was a somewhat sloppy fit, wondering if I need to turn something exact on the lathe? By the way, if you're wondering, I was able to turn the feed screw with a magnetic tool through the big end of the quill, to get it out of the way. I could, of course, tap on the end of the screw and try to force the quill out, but I'm not sure that's in the best interest of the feed screw threads. And after soaking in WD40, the quill lock is still stuck.

For a machine that's relatively unworn and not rusty in the least, it's just fighting me every step of the way.PB112752.JPG
 
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Try some heat around the endcap. Wrap some fine (like 400 grit) sand paper around the endcap, grit against the cap and grip it with some channel locks. With some heat they usually break loose pretty easy. Get something better than WD-40 for penetrating oil, like Seafoam or Kroil.
 
I Kroiled it, didn't make a difference. Here's what I used - turned it on my South Bend, a "coin" 1.125" dia. 0.125" thick. The thickness was a perfect fit in the slots, I think the diameter could have been a little larger. Still took a fair amount of force with a large adjustable wrench. When I got it out, there were metal filings in the threads.

I was able to tap the quill out with a brass drift, still can't get the lock out. I've tapped the ID of the upper lock to 5/16-24 (it fit well enough without drilling). I can lift the entire tailstock by the tap, so I'm not optimistic as to the lock coming out peacefully, but I'll get a 5/16-24 fastener and try the slide hammer.PB112759.JPG
 
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