11" 1957-2 Refurb

Very helpful Mike B. Thank you.

I tried holding the collar with a pair of channel locks. Collar twisted on the shaft. So I removed the setscrew and checked, there is not a flat on the leadscrew for the setscrew to seat to. I'll try tightening the setscrew down a little tighter. I don't mind a few burrs on the collar, it will be easy and cheap to replace. Don't want to take any chances with the leadscrew though.

Thank You,
Ron
 
THANKS I TOO HAVE AN 11" LOGAN . ITS BEEN USED BY ME OFF AND ON FOR OVER THIRTY YEARS AND ITS BEEN A GREAT LATHE FOR ME. ID LIKE TO GET ANOTHER LATHE IN THE 14" OR 15" RANGE. BUT WITH ME I MAY NOT EVER BE ABLE TO AFFORD ONE. BEING DISABLED AND WHEELCHAIR BOUND . MY ONLY INCOME BARELY COVERS LIVING EXSPENSIVES. SO IM ENJOYING THE MACHINIST SITE AND YOUTUBE.
THE REBUILD YOUVE DONE IS REALLY GREAT LOOKING . BETTER THEN NEW I THINK.. IF YOUR GOING TO SELL THE TURRET COULD YOU LET ME KNOW I MAY BE INTERESTED. THANKS AND BE SAFE , NO FUN BEING HURT. GREAT LOOKING LATHE YUPP
 
COULD YOU SEND ME THE DIMENSIONS OF THE PART OF THE LEVER CLOSER THAT HAS THE SLOTS CUT ON THE LARGER DIAMETER PART THAT GOES ON THE BACK OF THE LATHE TUBE. I HAVE A LEVER ONE BUT AM MISSING THAT PART .IN THE MIDDLE OF YOUR PICTURE OF THE CLOSER TAKEN APART. IF YOUR NOT GONA USE IT ID LIKE TO BUY IT IF ITS NOT TO MUCH. THANKS AGAIN.
 
Mike, can you tell us anything about the link belts? I am considering them for my lathe. I don't use it often enough and am thinking that the link belts may be a good option considering how long between running my belts may set. I put them on my table saw years ago and they are still doing the job. Just wondering what your thoughts are. As well as where you got them.

I wouldn't be surprised if the belts on my Logan now are original equipment. I know that I have owned it for at least 20 years. Bought it from the high school I went to after they closed the machine shop.
 
I first used a link belt after restoring my Logan 200 Lathe. I was noticing a pulse when running the lathe and traced the cause to the splice on the belt from the motor to countershaft. That's when I first used a link belt and it seemed to run quieter and eliminated the pulsing. As you can see in my pictures, I used all link belts on my 1957 Logan Lathe. It allows me to make the belts any length I want and keeps me from having to remove the spindle to change belts if and when needed. So far, they have been working well for me.

I purchased the link belt for My Logan 200 Lathe from Harbor Freight. I purchased the belts for my 1957 Logan Lathe from a local hardware store.
 
Thank you again for the helpful information Mike. I'm leaning towards link belts myself. I kinda thought that they are a little noisier than V-belts, but not enough to outweigh the benefit of the missing bump/bump/bump when first started after setting for some time.

Cheers,
Ron
 
Ron, you're probably right on the noise. I really didn't run my 1957 much with the v-belts before I rebuilt the headstock and changed everything over to linked belts. It just runs very quiet but perhaps it would be quieter with a v-belt. I'll never know.

One thing I left out on my last post is I didn't have any issues regarding matching the two spindle belts. I just made them up with the same number of links and they were the same size.
 
Dmp2275 said:
After full disassembly, next came cleanup in the parts washer and refurbishing any rough areas + paint. This included replacing all the sealed bearings in the drive unit, new gearbox bushings, new gearbox keyed shaft, clean/re-grease spindle bearings, new felts, new rubbers for the cabinet, etc.

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Can you tell me where you bought the rubber bushings?

How did you size the brass bushings? I'm trying to decide if I should replace mine now. They aren't "that" bad, but as long as I'm doing the job I figure I might do them. But I don't want to open a Can-O-Worms that I will regret.
 
Wow, I missed a bunch of replies here... I don't think I was getting the email notifications!

Just to comment on some of the past posts, the extra parts for the collet closer went to the scrap yard (nobody seemed to want them on eBay), the turret was sold for peanuts, and I use an impact gun to remove the lead screw nut as it'll whip the nut off without marring the shaft.. not really any need to even hold it.

Regarding the rubber bushings for the motor mounts, I didn't have to replace those but I saw new ones on eBay. I believe there was a gentleman reproducing them. I had to replace all the small rubber parts like the door bumpers and headstock cover bumpers and I also got those off eBay.

The bushings I picked up from McMaster and I didn't actually have to size any of them. They were just about perfect fit width and diameter wise for the shaft which I also got from McMaster. Hope that helps!
 
Dmp2275 said:
......Also note the 3/4hp peerless motor which is 120/220v capable and reversible....

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THANK YOU!!! Thank you for posting these detailed photos in your build thread. (You did an impeccable job by the way) I was given a Peerless 1/2hp and couldn't find the proper wiring diagram for 120v "LOW VOLTS". I wired it in the "HIGH VOLTS" configuration and put 120v to it and it worked so I knew that I had the wrong "LOW VOLTS" diagram. You saved me some money and a bunch of time by not having to run 240v in my garage.
 
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