11" 1957-2 Refurb

Very cool, nice progress. Keep the pics coming. I used to believe that turret lathes used for production would be totally worn out. But I have a similar Logan 912 in process, and yes some things are worn, but the bed actually does not show hardly any wear at all. I figure that once in place, the turret and cross slide don't move until re-set for another job, so actually much less sliding on the bed surface than with a conventional lathe. Just my musings, nothing scientific.
 
Looking good on the rebuild. Should be a nice machine when your done. That turret assembly could be very handy if your ever making a run of the same parts. Mike
 
Sorry guys, internet took a crap (satellite + storms = no internet).

Mocked cabinet up, made sure everything was square/level, and bolted it together. Mounted casters (for ease of movement.. lathe rests on leveling feet when in place but casters are rated for 400lbs ea). Picked up some really nice leveling feet from McMaster.
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Next came the drive unit.. All new sealed Koyo bearings. Just to note, the oem bearings on the drive unit had a metal casing which had allowed crud to get into the bearings over the years. I replaced them with a corresponding part number that uses a rubber seal. Hoping for better bearing life (not like it matters much considering this lathe is from around 1961' and bearings lasted this long). Rubber seals will decrease rated speed a bit but doubt it matters much in this instance. I didnt actually calculate speeds of the shafts but im sure they can handle much more than this lathe runs (max spindle speed 1238rpm). Also note the 3/4hp peerless motor which is 120/220v capable and reversible. If this ever bites the dust im probably going to move to a 1.5hp 3 phase motor with VFD as i think this lathe can handle more power.. plus itd be nice to use a 3400rpm motor and double my top end speed to 2460rpm (or more if i push the vfd past 60hz). It would help with using carbides. Im using a similar setup as described on my bridgeport and absolutely love it. Worst part is calculating actual speeds but its managable.

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As noted before, i had to replace one of the gearbox shafts. At the time, i didnt have a mill so i purchased a ground/polished and keyed 5/8" shaft from Mcmaster. I didnt realize it but the OEM Logan shaft does NOT have a standard keyway cut for the shaft size. The key way measured out to 1/8" while the standard keyway size is 3/16". I ended up just using the shaft from Mcmaster and the larger keyway has had no ill effect. Once the gears are fitted, the difference in size is barely noticable considering gear play. I may end up going back and making a shaft from scratch now that i have a mill but i dont think its necessary.
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So here is where i ran into a snag. I began assembling the carriage assembly and knew i wouldnt be happy with a rocker tool post. I bought a phase II QCTP to fit onto the lathe in AXA size. So i went to a buddies house to mill the T-nut. While milling, his mini mill burned up the servo motor and control board (ouch $$). I dont have any other friends with milling machines that im willing to ask for help, so i went and did the next most logical thing.. i bought a bridgeport.

This also came from the Philly area. Made in 62' according to the serial number, it has a mitutoyo dro, an updated servo powerfeed on the x axis, came with a bridgeport vice, has a mitsubishi VFD with braking resistor thatll run up to 5hp, and it came with a good bit of tooling including end mills, tool holders, and some other goodies. This thing, in the 4 months ive had it, has been a god send. Best purchase i ever made (along with the lathe)!! So after i got the mill, i had to reassembly and clean everything (took about a week) and then 30 seconds into milling the T-nut, the top pulley bearings locked up. I had heard the bearings making raquet when i tested the mill so i wasnt surprised but that put me down another week while i waited for parts and rebuilt the bridgeport head. Finally, I used the mill to finish up my T-nut.

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On with the lathe.. It was moved into its final resting spot and leveled up before i did much more assembly. Got it close to level with a 4' framing level and finished up just insuring there was no twist in the bed by using a machinist level on each end of the bed and making sure it registered at the same spot.

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There were a few things i wanted to change on this lathe. I didnt want the production collet closer mounted anymore as i couldnt open the gear cover. Part of the collet closer was a long spindle take up nut so i found an original short one on ebay from a model 1955 (im not comfortable turning threads yet). That allowed me to get the side cover mounted. From here, the lathe was pretty much finished. Then i had to make backing plates for the two chucks i kept from the SB i had parted out.. a 4 jaw buck and a 3 jaw buck set-tru scroll chuck.

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