your thoughts on using MT2 ER32 collet chuck in the tailstock.

Ken from ontario said:
The albrecht chuck that I use in my lathe is old and the jaws are probably too worn out , maybe that's why I find it a PITA to use in tailstock, if I need to use a drill bit anything over 1/4" , I usually go with the keyed chuck so I can crank the key in 2 spot, the ER 32 collets should clamp much better and as mentioned above more accurately than the conventional chuck .
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why not just order a rebuild kit for the jaws.
 
The keyed chuck do the job better than expected .
I would like to know more about the pros and cons of using ER chucks.
 
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Some MT ER holders come with a tang, but in most cases they are usually low quality from what I have seen. A number of us have purchased better quality MT ER holders and added a thread in tang. some examples are in this post. My tang is permanently fastened so there is no issues with reversing the chuck.
https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/er40-shank-for-lathe-mt3.58791/#post-484555

On dies and taps there are a number of different options. I have machined die holders and tap holding chucks in various sizes that slide on a shaft, one that fits into a chuck for smaller work and another that uses a MT insert that has a sliding shaft. The holder spins on the shaft, it can be locked or hand tensioned. Most of the VFD system I build have a jog joystick, a number of individuals use this to power tap in/out.

One issue that happens infrequently but is dangerous is MT pullout from the tailstock. When sequentially enlarging a hole or sometimes with squaring up a hole/shoulder with an end mill the drill will dig into the material and want to pullout of the tailstock. It will auto feed forward, W/O a tang it will pull forward and spin, with a tang it will pull out but continue to feed.
 
MKSJ, I was wondering whether it is advisable to get one with a tang or with M10 drawbar thread,either one comes with a problem of how to attach them to the tailstock,the lathe I have is a small mini lathe with a small tailstock,an MT2 shaft with a tang sticks out about 3/4" but if the tang prevents slippage , maybe I can cut a "U" in the tail end TS to grip the tang.
I have no idea how to secure an MT shank with M10/M12 drawbar thread to the tailstock yet but was worried if if I just slip it in the quill like I do with other MTshank tools , the extreme forces generated during drilling would cause it to slip.
 
MT2 slippage is a problem, at least for me. I have already scored the tailstock taper once. My tailstock will not accept a tang. I am not sure how to combat this except to make sure the taper is clean and well seated. It still can slip with larger drills as noted above.
Robert
 
You machine a tang with a thread on it, the tang length can be a bit shorter if you have limited travel. I locked my tang in using some blue loctite, but if you want permanent you could use a high strength type. Otherwise just lock the tang in a vise and tighten the arbor onto it, usually there are some flats on the ER collet end, or just do it by hand. Some vendors sell screw in tangs, but very easy to make one out of round stock. I used round stock, turned my thread on one end and then put it in a square collet block and machines the flats. If you have flat rectangular stock you could mill the tang width and height, hold it in a 4J independent chuck and turn the thread for the tang, then cut the tang to length. My tang is just flats with no radius where it screws into the ER shank. Take a look at the link provided above for different approaches.
http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Chucks/Drill-Chuck-Arbors/Screw-In-Tangs
 
mksj said:
You machine a tang with a thread on it, the tang length can be a bit shorter if you have limited travel.
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The problem is how to firmly secure an MT shank with a tang (or without) in the tailstock so it doesn't slip.
 
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rwm said:
"maybe I can cut a "U" in the tail end TS to grip the tang"-I did not think that was possible. How would you go about that? I wish my tailstock would accept a tang.
Robert
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I don't know yet,that was me thinking out loud,I haven't looked at what's possible and what's not but maybe if we put our heads together we could come up with some kind of modification that works, for example I'm thinking maybe to use a drawbar for tailstock? wonder how that would work, just thinking out loud again.
 
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If you read that other thread I posted, several people made the point that the tang was not supposed to be used to stop rotation! A lot of info in that thread. I think I have been making a mistake by step drilling for larger holes. You need the forward pressure on the TS to prevent slippage.
Robert
 
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