Yamabond sealed motorcycle cases

I made a tool similar to my #8 post. Warmed it up and progressively turned the screws to spread the case. Movement eventually occurred.
Eye dropper applied acetone where observed splitting of the case occurred, let it sit for awhile. Tweeked screws. Don't go stoopid with the force.
It will surrender. Good luck. Yamabond is the sheet.
 
mofosheee said:
Hello Forum
Anybody out there have experience with splitting cases assembled with Yamabond? An inquiring mind would like to hear of your technique
Thanks
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Most always you'll find some lumps, "hollows", or other features that you can get a lever into. I'm sure you know how dangerous it is to use a screwdriver to pry things, but they're usually about the right size. Depending on the nature of the sealant (it's changed over the years), it may be a hardening type, or it may not. Both want slow steady pressure as they start to give, but the hardening type might need some taps (respectfully...) with a soft faced hammer, around the joint to "break" the seal. And then there's dowel pins. Those are by design a "tight sliding fit", and probably "locktited" with gasket maker. So all progress at removel must be kept even. I think most (at one time I think it was almost all...) powersports branded gasket maker were Three Bond rebadges. Back when I was more into that stuff, all my cases went together with Threbond 1211, which is NOT a cross to anything anyone ever used for cases, but it works, matches factory reliability, it's (slightly) more forgiving about a little nick or ding in the sealing face than the factory one, and it can be disassembled easier than the hardening type. I actually think it's out there in at least one powersports package, it's white and kinda thin consistancy....) All of the zero clearance sealers (factory brand or otherwise) do need fairly good surfaces and surgical grade clean parts for good results.
 
I did get the joint separation at the top started by using a .018 in. utility blade and a small hammer. The vise-grip is to hold the blade when working from the bottom and tapping up. With progressive, gentle prying and tapping I got it open 1/8 in at the top, but none at the bottom yet. To open it symmetrically I cannot access either side. I will now go back to working the bottom, though access is very poor and close. I now declare the problem essentially solved, though that is a bit premature. It is just a matter of time.
Thank guys.
Rick


toolkit.jpeg

he1:8 in gap now.jpeg
 
Rick Dawsey said:
I did get the joint separation at the top started by using a .018 in. utility blade and a small hammer. The vise-grip is to hold the blade when working from the bottom and tapping up. With progressive, gentle prying and tapping I got it open 1/8 in at the top, but none at the bottom yet. To open it symmetrically I cannot access either side. I will now go back to working the bottom, though access is very poor and close. I now declare the problem essentially solved, though that is a bit premature. It is just a matter of time.
Thank guys.
Rick


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heView attachment 403723
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Yes, it's surgery. Be gentle. I would use a rawhide or rubber mallet and possibly a plastic wedge. Like a shim for doors found at home despot
 
Ive split about a dozen mc cases over the years both clamshell style and vertical split. The most difficult part is finding a safe location to begin the split. Most all cases use dowels for precise fitment and these dowels sometimes become corroded from dissimilar metals mate. Sometimes cases have a beefy overhang "shelf" that you can hit . I like using oak wood blocks if possible. I also have used a brass punch with the tip wrapped in electrical tape. Ive also used propane heat at the case parting line at the dowel locations to help free up the pressed fit. Have patients , and incramentally separate by working all around the perimeter .
 
Motorcycle mechanic for many years. Yamabond, Hondabond, suzukibond, etc. all the same thing. It is actually made by a japanese gasket maker named Three Bond. The motorcycle stuff is three bond #4. Grey in color.

Plastic hammer, or wood, slight puller pressure, do not pry. Acetone will clean it off better than anything else I found after careful scraping of surfaces.
 
As Navy Chief mentioned, Plastic wedges. It has been many years, but I split a Yamaha case using a steering wheel puller (finger tightened) a rubber mallet, and plastic or wooden wedges. Do not touch the mating surfaces with anything metal. The puller was attached. to the magneto mount.
 
davek181 said:
Motorcycle mechanic for many years. Yamabond, Hondabond, suzukibond, etc. all the same thing. It is actually made by a japanese gasket maker named Three Bond. The motorcycle stuff is three bond #4. Grey in color.

Plastic hammer, or wood, slight puller pressure, do not pry. Acetone will clean it off better than anything else I found after careful scraping of surfaces.
Click to expand...
Which are all basically Three Bond 1184 rebadged by Honda, Yamaha and Suzuki.
 
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