Work bench tops

Hi Terry, I usually make them flush. Things do roll off from time to time but not often enough to want a lip. For what I do a smooth flat surface works well.

Jim
 
JimSchroeder said:
Hi Terry, I usually make them flush. Things do roll off from time to time but not often enough to want a lip. For what I do a smooth flat surface works well.

Jim
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Thanks Jim! I assumed you were making them flush, and that is the way they appear in your photos, but a very small lip of 1/16" would be nearly invisible and would be just enough to keep those little things that are hard to find from going over the edge. Not that flush is bad, I am just thinking out loud for the benefit of others. I've also got a new workbench project coming up and might just try your method, thus my reason for giving this some deeper thought.

Tamper84 said:
Wow thanks for all of the replies guys!! I like both ideas of using a solid wood door or the mdf. I have a basic wood working tools. So the butcher block idea is out lol. Dumb question here. But this is what you are talkin about correct? http://www.lowes.com/pd_37461-99899-M31LW1249097_4294857952_4294937087_ It's about 35 bucks a sheet. Hmmm viable option, and I like the looks of your bench. I may have to try that out.

Thank you all,
Chris
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Chris,

Yup, that's the stuff. I've used it for various projects over the years, just never used it for a workbench top before, but that may soon change.

I have also used premade countertop sections, basically MDF with Formica attached on it, like someone else mentioned. But as also mentioned, if any liquid gets under the laminate, it will bubble and there is no really decent way to fix it. On the other hand, if a fellow did accidentally gouge an MDF top, the hole could be filled with a mix of sawdust and epoxy, then varnish over it after it has had the chance to set for a while. A solid core door works well, but it is difficult to repair the surface without it standing out like a sore thumb.

Long story short, I am seeing an MDF project in my future.
 
i use the 3/4" mdf as the base then glue and screw either a sheet of 5/8" or 3/4" plywood as the top. the plywood handles spills better than the mdf, also offers a little more structural strength i have found. I have also screwed a thin piece of sheet metal over a section as a welding section to the bench. I have a pretty small shop and have to make every inch count.
 
terrywerm said:
Thanks Jim! I assumed you were making them flush, and that is the way they appear in your photos, but a very small lip of 1/16" would be nearly invisible and would be just enough to keep those little things that are hard to find from going over the edge.
Click to expand...

One major drawback with a lip on a workbench is that the lip makes it quite a bit more difficult to clamp various things to the surface of the work bench. In the first picture the cabinet base prevents doing much clamping, but the white base with shelves should work well.

All that's to say that I recommend a significant overhang on your workbench top if possible.

Harry
 
I made a butcher block bench top, using 2 X 4's cut in halves, glued and nailed together. It has held up well over the years, but using 2 x 4's full width would be best. I never bothered to finish it and it does not look great, but is fine for garage use. It seems I'm the kind of guy that's finds a beautifully finished board something to defile. I beat the hell out of everything I touch and see no beneift in a beautiful workbench. They are something to use, not look at.

As they say, it takes all kinds.

Bill
 
I have several steel top tables and a couple with plywood. One of my favorite is a 2 x 4 frame with maple flooring as a top. Sturdy, durable and nice to work on.

Steve t
 
I'll second canerodscom's (Harry's) point about lips on benches. I've had several occasions to use pre-built kitchen counter tops (Formaica-topped) with slightly raised lip "bumps" in front and formed back ledges. Such a pain in the behind! Not only can't you use clamps, but nothing that sits across the lip is ever level! They're great for keeping spilled water from dripping on the kitchen floor, but that's about it.

Yes, the countertops are cheap (especially customer returns or odd colors), but in this case, you really do get what you pay for!

- hman
(John Herrmann)
 
For my benches in my garage I used 2x6s layed flat and spaced out to make them 24" wide, then used 3/4" ply wood on top of that bolted down with carriage bolts to the 2x6s and bench frame underneath. This is very solid and makes the tops easily replaceable if they get messed up.
 
All my benches are 1x2" steel tube stock frames, welded together, painted nicely and a 3/4" plywood top. I go to the local discount/dollar-amma stores and buy linoleum scraps as a top liner. Rolls of 4' by 10-20' usually cost 20-30 bucks. When that linoleum starts looking bad, I just replace a section. I have several steel plates and small anvils when I need to pound on something. That goes a long way to preserve the linoleum.


Ray.
 
Wow Jim...that is an impressive (and CLEAN!!!) workbench/room! Will you come over and remodel mine??? Yours is truly inspirational!
 
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