Work bench tops

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Tamper84

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I am getting ready to put together my workbench. For my base I am using old kitchen cabinets I got for free. But the top I don't know what I am going to do with it. I have thought of using a kitchen counter top. Usually a hardware store in town sells seconds for 2 bucks a foot. Then I have thought of buying 2x4s turning them on edge and running all thread thru them and making (kinda) butcher block top.

What did you guys use? Any other ideas? And no, no welding on this one, I am planning on building a welding table shortly.

Thanks,
Chris
 
I used a solid core wood door blank. Plenty sturdy very heavy. Put a few coats of spar varnish on it and it's nearly impregnable to oils and cutting fluids unless left on there for a few days (my lathe is mounted to it) Got mine from an outlet store for $30. 2x4's will have a lot of curf to them so unless you have a planer to even the surface you'll spend a long time sanding. I was going to go with a prefab formica countertop but those are usually bonded to some sort of chip or particle board. If it gets wet or oil gets in it it will swell and cause bubbles.
 
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Now that sounds like an idea. I just have to find a solid wood door :thinking:

thank you,
Chris
 
I have some 12ga. angle & channel in 60" lenghts if you need some for a frame.
 
A concrete filled steel security door is also and excelent workbench and very stable over time. You can do minor heating and bending while keeping the easy clean wipe and go surface. I lot of local scrap yards have them laying around and the openings for the window and knobs make great cable guides and a place to put a grate for cutting or burning. I'm cheap as they come and I seem to remember those doors were 15 bucks a piece since they were a custom size and had no jambs included.

Bob
 
I will second the choice of the solid wood door. I have made a couple of workbenches using them, not to mention that they look great. I used polyurethane floor varnish on them, usually 3 or 4 coats, and they were tough as nails. The doorknob hole works great for passing some cords through if needed, too, especially when the bench is up against a wall.
 
The first work surface I put together for my shop was made of about ¾ inch steel plate setting on a frame of what I believe is mobile home frame materials (scrap yard sourced). It serves as a welding table and heavy duty work surface. It is on wheels so it can be moved around as needed. A heavy motor or transmission can be placed on it and cause no damage to the table top surface. A wipe with solvent/oil and it’s ready to go again.

I am also interested in what answers you get as I have also purchased some cabinet bottoms and have been thinking of what to put on top of them when installed. I have been told that metal is not good if you ever plan to do any electrical work and that soft woods like normal 2x4’s are too soft. Other than those two choices I am still open.

Benny
The Orphanage Never Closes
 
Hi Chris, let me pass along some thoughts based on a number of benches that I have built over the years. Here is a photo of my current shop layout and you can see the bench top which like you is built on top of oak kitchen cabinets. I built this top six years ago.

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This top is constructed of two layers of 3/4" MDF (medium density fiber board), these layer are glued and screwed together as follows. The standard sheet size is a little over 48 x 96 inches, I rip the sheet so that I end up with two pieces that are each a little over 24 x 96 inches. I then line these sheets up and clamp each end with a large clamp. Next I lay out a grid spaced 8" apart starting 1" in from an edge. Then using a screw set bit I drill each location to accept an 1 1/4" sheet rock screw making sure that the counter sink goes just deep enough to place the screw head even or slightly below the surface. After the entire sheet is drilled and counter sunk I separate the sheets and remove any debris from drilling and paint one side (or both, your choice) with cabinet glue. Put the sheets back together and align the holes then put a screw into a location at each end to ensure alignment of the entire array. Make sure this is supported on a flat surface because when you are done it will be a very rigid piece and heavy. Insert and run down all of the screws and let it cure over night. I have a straight edge that I use to trim the edges if there is any waviness or unevenness. After placing the top in place I then band the edge with strip of hemlock, I usually buy a 1 x 4 inch piece and rip it down the middle. I glue and screw this to the edges of the top and then using a plane or router round off the out edge.

Next and one of the most important parts of the process is to put on ten coats of gloss polyurethane either water or oil based. After the third coat do a light sanding to remove any specs that may have formed on the surface. Do not sand the last coat. The reason this is important is the MDF absorbs this finish and results in hard but very durable coating. About every three years or so I lightly sand the top and recoat it with one or two coats of polyurethane which results in a like new finish.

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I have used this same technique to build a bench for my lathe with excellent results. Notice however that the lathe is on blocks, casters and machine benches do not work well together in my opinion. I have not used a solid door but the operative work is "solid". I have done the butcher block approach but unless you have some serious wood working equipment that will allow you to obtain a smooth flat surface you may be disappointed. I was unhappy with my results. I have built more than a few for family and friends using the laminated MDF approach with consistently good results. I hope this sparks some innovative ideas for your project.

Jim

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I like the looks of your benches, Jim. When you put the strip of hemlock along the edge do you keep the top flush with the bench top, or do you leave it raised a bit to keep little bits and pieces from going off the edge?
 
Wow thanks for all of the replies guys!! I like both ideas of using a solid wood door or the mdf. I have a basic wood working tools. So the butcher block idea is out lol. Dumb question here. But this is what you are talkin about correct? http://www.lowes.com/pd_37461-99899-M31LW1249097_4294857952_4294937087_ It's about 35 bucks a sheet. Hmmm viable option, and I like the looks of your bench. I may have to try that out.

Thank you all,
Chris
 
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