Wine Bottle Stoppers

Your stoppers are first class. You inspired me to make several but I didn't use food grade o-rings. They are just a friction fit with each o-ring a little larger to fit different size bottle necks. Here is a pic, don't mean to hi-jack a thread.

bedwards

I like these too! This is not a hi-jack, this is what this forum is all about! I've seen them with a little taper also.

Nice work on the stoppers.

Where do you get food grade o-rings?

Ebay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FDA-SILICON...038?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2ea7a5b73e

Same seller has them in many sizes and colors! Not sure that food grade is absolutely necessary, as long as they are clean, right?
 
Those look really neat!

But, I am having trouble understanding the preference for left-hand threads.

It seems to me that regular right-hand threads would give the desired, and I quote, "righty-tighty, lefty-loosy" behavior, while left-hand threads would seem backwards.
 
"Because you are pulling the o-ring squeezer up or into the body, the left hand threads make the handle turn for the user righty tighty lefty loosey."

Think of a normal C-clamp. Looking from the top, you twist clockwise to tighten it up... right hand threads.

With the stopper, the compression of the o-ring squeezes the o-ring out, tightening or sealing the bottle. Opposite of a C-clamp.

If you use right hand threads on these stoppers, they will get tighter in the bottle when you turn them counter clockwise. Unnatural IMO.

When you twist open a twist top bottle of wine, you twist to the left or counter clockwise. To seal a twist top bottle, you twist to the right or clockwise.

I had to think about this a bunch before I made the first one. I could be wrong...

Make one with right hand threads and let us know how you like it!

Ever go bowling? The great equalizer in bowling for right handers is the 10 pin. Without the ten pin, it would be a much easier game. For lefties, it is the 7 pin...

Best regards :^) Dave
 
I thought I had it based on the C-Clamp description, but then I looked at the drawing again.

The drawings shows the handle passing through the body, and threading into the "squeezer". This means that a right-hand thread will act as "righty-tighty" to draw the squeezer up and tighten it, while a left-hand thread would be backwards.

If the stopper was actually set up as a C-clamp, with the squeezer attached to the end of the threaded handle shaft, and the handle threaded thru the body, then I agree that left-hand threads would work correctly.

What am I missing?
 
I Loctite the squeezer to the threads on the end of the handle. That way it can not come apart. You could press or pin the squeezer on the end of the handle.

The threads in use are through the body. On the drawing, there are lines down from the hole in the body to the call out for the threads but inadvertently no arrowheads. The lines were intended to describe and dimension the hole through the body. I'm sorry I did not make that clear.

I'm glad you asked for clarification and you have given me food for thought. As I said before, there are a bazillion ways to make these things!
 
Ah-that makes more sense.

I was also wondering (the way I THOUGHT it worked) how you stopped leakage around the threads in the squeezer.
 
There's still time to make some of these....

Merry Christmas!
 
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