Will this VFD work with a Bridgeport?

Defender92 said:
I just ordered the Hitachi WJ200-015SF from Drives Warehouse.

All my 240 outlets are 50 amp.
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those can be switched out in the box, a 50 amp is a 4 pole breaker, if you need a 10 to 30 amp those will be 3 wire/pole breakers, your wire may be a bit over sized but the breaker can be switched out and rewired using the wire which is in place and the wall plug can be changed out as well. When I set my machines up the big deal for me was making certain the wire and breakers were properly sized and rated and the plug was the correct outlet to exclude someone from plugging in a lesser voltage or amp rating plug.
 
a 50 amp is a 4 pole breaker, if you need a 10 to 30 amp those will be 3 wire/pole breakers, your wire may be a bit over sized but the breaker can be switched out and rewired using the wire which is in place and the wall plug can be changed out as well.
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Not correct, the majority of 30-50 amp breakers (and 10-30a) out there that are likely 2 pole, I have quite a few of them in my shops. Matter of fact, I am not sure I've ever seen a 50a (or smaller) 240v breaker that wasn't 2 pole.

When I set my machines up the big deal for me was making certain the wire and breakers were properly sized and rated and the plug was the correct outlet to exclude someone from plugging in a lesser voltage or amp rating plug.
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Why would plugging in a "lesser amp rating plug" make any difference? The reason the plugs are different is to prevent someone trying to plug in a higher amperage piece of equipment, not the other way around. I've always been told the breaker is there to protect the wire, not necessarily the equipment...size accordingly (6awg for 50a, 8awg for 40, 10awg for 30, depending on length).
 
If it is 240VAC single phase then it is a single pole, if it is 120VAC it is a single pole, three phase is 3 pole. If it is a GFCI it will have an additional wire for a neutral. Breaker's protect the wire that is connected to it, not the device plugged into the socket, as it can draw anything from a few watts, all the way up to the rated current/time for a particular breaker. Some receptacle will allow a plug with different amperage ratings, but not exceed that of the receptacle rating. The wiring needs to be rated for the amperage of the receptacle, as well as all NEC code requirements required back to the breaker, for the particular device/application. So in some cases where there is a high current start up load say with a motor a higher amperage breaker might be used for the specific wiring, but the current draw is still limited by the receptacle plug rating and the device that is attached to the plug. The VFD manufactures usually provide guidance for the fusing/wiring gauge (type/size) for a particular VFD model, there are many aspects to type of fuse used, they are designed to provide a degree of protection for the VFD. The panel breaker does not protect the VFD.

Receptacle and plug ratings do not necessarily determine that any electrical device with the same or lesser amperage can be used for that particular socket, as it is not only used to transmit power, but also as a means of power disconnect. Example would be that welding equipment may have have higher amperage rating the socket but with shorter duty cycle, where a motor the maximum Hp for say a 50A receptacle is 3 Hp single phase, despite the motor only drawing much less than the receptacle rating. VFD with a plug, I have not seen any specific guidance, other than it needs to be able to support a minimum of the VFD input current x 125%. Wall receptacles are also limited to no more than 80% of their rated current for any extended time, and even with that they may overheat and fail. There are an alarming number of receptacle failures being seen with plug in EV charges, even when limited to their 80% rating when charging continuously at this rating. There is also a big difference in the quality of the plug/receptacle.

If you are using a 50A branch circuit for a VFD that specifies a 30A circuit, then all the wiring up to the VFD input power needs to support the the 50A rating, if you have a VFD in an electrical cabinet with a power disconnect and fusing/breaker, all the wiring to the disconnect switch and fusing/breaker would need to support the 50A rating, after the fusing/breaker the wire then needs to support the rating for the particular fusing/breaker. Guidance's for wiring specifications in an electrical enclosure can differ than what is between the enclosure and the branch circuit panel. There is also the wire ratings for the temperature ratings of wiring terminals.
 
Jason280 said:
Not correct, the majority of 30-50 amp breakers (and 10-30a) out there that are likely 2 pole, I have quite a few of them in my shops. Matter of fact, I am not sure I've ever seen a 50a (or smaller) 240v breaker that wasn't 2 pole.



Why would plugging in a "lesser amp rating plug" make any difference? The reason the plugs are different is to prevent someone trying to plug in a higher amperage piece of equipment, not the other way around. I've always been told the breaker is there to protect the wire, not necessarily the equipment...size accordingly (6awg for 50a, 8awg for 40, 10awg for 30, depending on length).
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Jason,

There is a bit of confusion here so let me try to be clear in my meaning. All 240 in the US has 2 positives, (I think this is what you refer to as 2 poles), the 50 amps have a neutral and a ground both connected to the ground in my box. The 20 and 30 Amp circuits have 2 positives and a single ground. When I refer to poles I am talking about the number of prongs the plug has.

Not certain where you are located nor what you do for a living; but, I have been an industrial designer for 40 years and I have a respect for the engineering and standards which was developed to insure I do not burn my home down. Yes part of the design of the plug is to stop someone from simply plugging the wrong thing i.e. a 110v into a 220v and this alone is serious enough. In many cases a 110v appliance will burn before tripping the breaker because the components in most 110v appliances are light in comparison to 220v appliances so they are more like a fuse. Looking at ugly's will provide the information anyone needs to properly wire these circuits. I use the proper components for electrical work because my home is an investment and it is where I live.
 
If you have 50 Amp outlets you are good to go.

As long as the plug is correct and wired correct, good.

The breaker protects ONLY THE CIRCUIT TO THE OUTLET.

After that, it is on the appliance that connects.

Insure your VFD has a fuse or breaker.

If your outlet is 44 pole, 2 hot, neutral and safety ground, you could add sub-panel to your machine to break our for 120 vac loads all on one cord.


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