Will this VFD work with a Bridgeport?

Defender92

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Being stupid I hit the PayPal button thinking it would give me a quick shipping quote. But instead I purchased this VFD. I didn’t get a chance to fully research it.

Will this VFD work with a Bridgeport 2J 2 hp?

If so i probably won’t attempt to cancel the order.

NES1-015SB: Variable Torque Hitachi 2 HP, 1.5 kW, VFD

EDIT:
I did cancel the order. But I’m still wondering if this is a good VFD for the 2J 2 hp. And is the seller good?

I’m wanting to stay away from the Chinese VFDs and get something quality. If anyone has any suggestions.
 
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Being stupid I hit the PayPal button thinking it would give me a quick shipping quote. But instead I purchased this VFD. I didn’t get a chance to fully research it.

Will this VFD work with a Bridgeport 2J 2 hp?

If so i probably won’t attempt to cancel the order.

NES1-015SB: Variable Torque Hitachi 2 HP, 1.5 kW, VFD

EDIT:
I did cancel the order. But I’m still wondering if this is a good VFD for the 2J 2 hp. And is the seller good?

I’m wanting to stay away from the Chinese VFDs and get something quality. If anyone has any suggestions.
I am in the process of hooking up my compressor to a VFD to convert single to 3 phase, a Sparky Engineer I know told me to go one larger VFD than the power I thought I would need so need a 5.5Kw and bought a 7.5Kw that bout a good as I can give.... Good luck.
 
I am in the process of hooking up my compressor to a VFD to convert single to 3 phase, a Sparky Engineer I know told me to go one larger VFD than the power I thought I would need so need a 5.5Kw and bought a 7.5Kw that bout a good as I can give.... Good luck.
Interesting. I was under the assumption the motor needed to be in the rated range of the VFD. Like a 5 hp VFD wouldn’t work with a 2 hp motor.
 
Interesting. I was under the assumption the motor needed to be in the rated range of the VFD. Like a 5 hp VFD wouldn’t work with a 2 hp motor.
The breakers will be the final deciding factor; but, my understanding is you would rather be big than small....
 
The breakers will be the final deciding factor; but, my understanding is you would rather be big than small....
Ok that’s good news. I’m not 100% this Bridgeport will work. If I get a VFD for a 2 hp then it sounds like it will work with a 1 or 1.5 hp motor if I ultimately get a different mill.
 
You do not need to oversize the VFD if the rated output amps is above the motor specifications and given any derating factors for the particular application. Manual mill is not a high load application, so you are fine with a 2 Hp single phase input VFD that outputs amps are higher than your motor. Breaker technically should be at least 125% of the VFD rated input current, this accounts for the ability to drive the motor at higher current for shorter periods of time, the manuals will provide guidance. You can get by with a 20A 230VAC breaker for 2 Hp, but the WJ200 specifies 30A circuit. I will go one size bigger on the VFD if the cost difference is nominal and I am at close to the maximum operating current of the VFD. Exception is the Chinese's generic VFD's, almost always it is recommended to go up a size or two. Running compressors they have a high failure rate, at least what people have reported. The Automation Direct GS21-22P0 is less expensive, in stock and they tend to be an easy install with good support, otherwise the Hitachi WJ200-015SF are regularly used/recommended.

GS21-22P0

WJ200-015SF
 
You do not need to oversize the VFD if the rated output amps is above the motor specifications and given any derating factors for the particular application. Manual mill is not a high load application, so you are fine with a 2 Hp single phase input VFD that outputs amps are higher than your motor. Breaker technically should be at least 125% of the VFD rated input current, this accounts for the ability to drive the motor at higher current for shorter periods of time, the manuals will provide guidance. You can get by with a 20A 230VAC breaker for 2 Hp, but the WJ200 specifies 30A circuit. I will go one size bigger on the VFD if the cost difference is nominal and I am at close to the maximum operating current of the VFD. Exception is the Chinese's generic VFD's, almost always it is recommended to go up a size or two. Running compressors they have a high failure rate, at least what people have reported. The Automation Direct GS21-22P0 is less expensive, in stock and they tend to be an easy install with good support, otherwise the Hitachi WJ200-015SF are regularly used/recommended.

GS21-22P0

WJ200-015SF
Thank you! This is what I was looking for. Out of curiosity, if I get a VFD rated for my 2 hp Bridgeport could I use the same VFD on a 1 hp motor? I want to buy this VFD now but I don’t know if the Bridgeport I bought is worth keeping.

I like the two options you suggested. I’m leaning towards the Hitachi because it’s made in Japan. Seems the Automation Direct is from Taiwan.
 
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You can set the VFD for a Hp/amp rating less than the rated output, so a 2 Hp could be used for say a 0.5, 1.0 or 1.5 Hp motor. My understanding is that there is a point that if you dial down a VFD too low that the accuracy of the feedback in sensorless vector becomes less accurate, but probably would be OK in a straight V/Hz output that does not use feedback to adjust the VFD output dynamically. On older motors, the insulation can be a bit more susceptible to break down from the VFD PWM output, so I recommend keeping the carrier frequency at no higher than 6kHz (which will cause some whine) and the overload at around 120-130% vs. the default 150%. Keep the VFD speed range in the 30-75Hz range, you loose Hp and mechanical advantage below 60 Hz. If you have a Reeves drive, use that for most of the speed changes as opposed to the VFD.
 
You can set the VFD for a Hp/amp rating less than the rated output, so a 2 Hp could be used for say a 0.5, 1.0 or 1.5 Hp motor. My understanding is that there is a point that if you dial down a VFD too low that the accuracy of the feedback in sensorless vector becomes less accurate, but probably would be OK in a straight V/Hz output that does not use feedback to adjust the VFD output dynamically. On older motors, the insulation can be a bit more susceptible to break down from the VFD PWM output, so I recommend keeping the carrier frequency at no higher than 6kHz (which will cause some whine) and the overload at around 120-130% vs. the default 150%. Keep the VFD speed range in the 30-75Hz range, you loose Hp and mechanical advantage below 60 Hz. If you have a Reeves drive, use that for most of the speed changes as opposed to the VFD.
Thank you
 
You can set the VFD for a Hp/amp rating less than the rated output, so a 2 Hp could be used for say a 0.5, 1.0 or 1.5 Hp motor. My understanding is that there is a point that if you dial down a VFD too low that the accuracy of the feedback in sensorless vector becomes less accurate, but probably would be OK in a straight V/Hz output that does not use feedback to adjust the VFD output dynamically. On older motors, the insulation can be a bit more susceptible to break down from the VFD PWM output, so I recommend keeping the carrier frequency at no higher than 6kHz (which will cause some whine) and the overload at around 120-130% vs. the default 150%. Keep the VFD speed range in the 30-75Hz range, you loose Hp and mechanical advantage below 60 Hz. If you have a Reeves drive, use that for most of the speed changes as opposed to the VFD.
Amperage load...... Amps x Volts = watts, be aware, when you are converting from a single phase to 3 phase, in the conversion there are some interesting things going on. there is some math involved with determining the proper breaker size to feed the VFD and I would advise you look into that if you haven't. If you are not careful you can produce some pretty ugly feed back which is why I was told to bump it up. Additionally make certain your VFD has the proper filters to avoid electronic noise which can be damaging. Don't wanna burn up the neighbors beta max nor your house. Do not be afraid, just be diligent, we all like to throw **** against the wall to see what sticks but this isn't one of those things, as I noted (was a hint) I consulted an electrical engineer.
 
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