will this qctp fit a 10f?

[wa5cab]

Heh heh. I think that a case could be made that everyone you put a BXA on their 12" either wish they hadn't and admit it, or wish they hadn't but won't admit it.

 

[great white]

I've decided to stay with the lantern tool post for while.

I have to build a stand for the lathe and I want to give it a thourough r&r before I start buying more stuff for it.

 

[fgduncan]

Many have told you to get a QCTP. And rightly so. I had made a home made tool post and holder and instantly realized the benefits. When the money became available, I bought an AXA sized QCTP for my 10F and never looked back. That QCTP changed the lathe from a toy to a tool. It is infinitely superior to the lantern and I still can't understand why anybody would use one except under threat of death. Or perhaps you haven't had a chance to get one yet. I have enjoyed my Atlas for nigh onto 30 years, and have no interest in any other. I'm a hobbyist and don't need anything else.

 

[louosten]

I just got an AXA wedge style tool post for my 10F Atlas. The base of the square tool post is larger than the area above the compound where it sits above the T-Slot. Has it been common practice to mill off a small portion of the compound for a better fit? I may have missed this procedure in a previous post; if so, sorry for the duplication.
Lou O.

 

[great white]

Many have told you to get a QCTP. And rightly so... It is infinitely superior to the lantern and I still can't understand why anybody would use one except under threat of death. Or perhaps you haven't had a chance to get one yet...

One word that overrides everything else: money.

As in: have none.

Later down the road, things will change. Until then, the lantern style rocker mount will have to do.

Even crap tools are better than no tools.....

 

[fgduncan]

I just got an AXA wedge style tool post for my 10F Atlas. The base of the square tool post is larger than the area above the compound where it sits above the T-Slot. Has it been common practice to mill off a small portion of the compound for a better fit? I may have missed this procedure in a previous post; if so, sorry for the duplication.
Lou O.

I milled a relief area on the top of the compound level with the one that was there so that the AXA would fit. Milling or grinding along the bottom edge of the AXA would accomplish the same thing. But you will have to do two edges so you can use both of the tool holder positions.

 

[wa5cab]

You might need to cut three corners. But if the three options, I would favor milling off the hump. Besides, bare compound slides are generally cheaper than decent quality QCTP's. And if you do a decent job of modifying the compound, it won't affect the value should the time ever come that you (or your heirs) need to sell the set.

On the subject of milling the hump, if you have an Atlas Milling Attachment, the compound slide and swivel will mount on it in place of the vise. Just don't make the mistake of trying to use the swivel as a rotary table.

 

[cdhknives]

I took a couple of big files to work the hump back the half inch or so required. As you get close, you have to slow down and draw file to mate up and stop so the new flat meets the existing flat well. It is easier than it sounds if you have a feel for filing and a big fine tooth file you can hold well. I found that I could slide the file lightly on the old flat and feel the ridge, then press down and lightly take metal off the high side only. 15-20 minutes later it looks original...I also took the opportunity to clean up the high spots from nicks and dings in the flat.

File teeth bite into edges really well, but skate over flats very well. Use the feel of this to your advantage on this sort of operation.

 

[louosten]

"milling the hump"...OK, I took your advice. This is how it worked out...

I cut a relief slit at the measured distance with my trusty Dremel (performed by memory, since I didn't have the AXA with me at home) ...



Then I mounted the top of the compound in my drill press (didn't have access to a mill)...



This is obviously not the ideal way to perform milling operations, as most already know. I went slow and took many light cuts...



This continued until I got within a few thousandths of the existing surface...


Then I finished it off with a flat file, carefully matching the adjacent surface...


I had to wait to get back to the shop to test my memory and work. The post was mounted and the AXA slooooowly lowered into position...Eureka, it worked!!!



Thanks for the help & advice!

Lou O.

 

[Rob]

You will find that you will need to mill the hump back further. When threading you will want the compond at 30 degrees but the QCTP set to straight into the work.