Why is there an outline around the part printed?

Points noted @great white . The difference between a skirt and a brim is the skirt doesn't touch the part. If you reduce the distance of the skirt so that it touches the part, now you have a brim. Semantics... :grin:
 
I just purchased the newest Prusa Mk3+ and getting near the end of the build. When reading through their 3D printing basics book, they explained in detail the purpose of each pre-print detail. Skirt, brim, rafts, etc.

According to Prusa, the skirt provides some sort air dam barrier between airflow across the heated bed and the portion of your print that is adhering to the bed. Basically you are creating an area of turbulent airflow inside the skirt area, keeping the temperature immediately around your print more stable.
 
vtcnc said:
I just purchased the newest Prusa Mk3+ and getting near the end of the build. When reading through their 3D printing basics book, they explained in detail the purpose of each pre-print detail. Skirt, brim, rafts, etc.

According to Prusa, the skirt provides some sort air dam barrier between airflow across the heated bed and the portion of your print that is adhering to the bed. Basically you are creating an area of turbulent airflow inside the skirt area, keeping the temperature immediately around your print more stable.
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Maybe I got too excited towards the end of my build and skipped that part by racing ahead ;)

If you figure out PETG printing let me know. Maybe I just got soggy filament from Prusa, but their settings for PETG did not work for my Prusament PETG. It was way too hot. Actually can't remove the remnants of PETG from the satin sheet. Unless I figure out the magic trick, that sheet is ruined. At $40 plus ridiculous shipping, to ruin a sheet without a single good print is disheartening.

On the other hand, I was quite successful with the PLA that came with the printer. Made an enclosure for my electronics and display for my ELS. Used the smooth sheet and that worked well with PLA.
 
I'm not sure why you're having so much trouble with petg. I just dial in a print temp somewhere in the middle of the filament range (printed on the spool) and same with the heated bed (don't recall temp offhand, I think around 80-90c)).

Hit print and it comes out fine. I hardly touch the settings at all in cura. About the only setting I mess with these days is nozzle and bed temps.

Perhaps it's because I usually print in ABS and that's pretty "uncooperative" filament. Maybe my setup for ABS makes PETG easier to print successfully.

I have had a lot of spalling lately on my glass build plates though. PETG seems to grip build plates pretty tenaciously. So I switched to a stainless steel build plate and no more spalling problems. Let it cool, flex the plate and it pops right off.
 
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great white said:
I'm not sure why you're having so much trouble with petg. I just dial in a print temp somewhere in the middle of the filament range (printed on the spool) and same with the heated bed (don't recall temp offhand, I think around 80-90c)).

Hit print and it comes out fine. I hardly touch the settings at all in cura.

I have had a lot of spalling lately on my glass build plates though. PETG seems to grip build plate pretty tenaciously. So I switched to stainless steel build plate and no more spalling problems.
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I don't know why either. I basically did what you wrote, and the results were not as expected.

There's a couple of mitigating factors, I was printing thin walls vertically because my bigger piece had vertical thin walls, and maybe the filament was damp. The PETG has been in a tight bag with silica gel for a while now. I'll try again in a bit.

Unfortunately when I printed a thin structure test cube in vase mode, the 40 x 40mm base sort of fused to the sheet. Can't get rid of all of it. Most of it is gone, but it's maybe 0.25mm higher in the dead middle of the satin sheet. Can I use a metal scraper to get it off? Tried a pla scraper but it didn't take off much.
 
WobblyHand said:
I don't know why either. I basically did what you wrote, and the results were not as expected.

There's a couple of mitigating factors, I was printing thin walls vertically because my bigger piece had vertical thin walls, and maybe the filament was damp. The PETG has been in a tight bag with silica gel for a while now. I'll try again in a bit.

Unfortunately when I printed a thin structure test cube in vase mode, the 40 x 40mm base sort of fused to the sheet. Can't get rid of all of it. Most of it is gone, but it's maybe 0.25mm higher in the dead middle of the satin sheet. Can I use a metal scraper to get it off? Tried a pla scraper but it didn't take off much.
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acetone??
 
From what little I know, the satin sheet has a label on the bag warning against the use of acetone. Probably damages the coating. Also I think PETG is resistant to acetone and most solvents.
 
WobblyHand said:
I don't know why either. I basically did what you wrote, and the results were not as expected.

There's a couple of mitigating factors, I was printing thin walls vertically because my bigger piece had vertical thin walls, and maybe the filament was damp. The PETG has been in a tight bag with silica gel for a while now. I'll try again in a bit.

Unfortunately when I printed a thin structure test cube in vase mode, the 40 x 40mm base sort of fused to the sheet. Can't get rid of all of it. Most of it is gone, but it's maybe 0.25mm higher in the dead middle of the satin sheet. Can I use a metal scraper to get it off? Tried a pla scraper but it didn't take off much.
Click to expand...
Sorry, I'm not familiar with "satin sheet" build plates so can't offer any help there....
 
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