Which Solder to use

You can create a small well to melt or hold molten solder to dip the conductors into

I used to replace hundreds of forklift battery cables. I’d take copper end lugs, fill them with solder, heat the lug with a propane torch until the solder melts, then slowly plunge the cable into the lug. Heat again until the solder flows into the cable Within seconds the solder connections were solid.
It works great up to 1/0 cable in my experience
 
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A soldering iron is the best way to join electrical wires. If you must use a propane torch, heat the wires by short passes through the flame so as niot to overheat and oxidize them, It doesn't take much to heat to the melting point of solder. The central portion of the flame is the reducing flame, The outer cone is an oxidizing flame. You want to heat with the central portion. If at all possible, leave an inch of excess wire and heat that and let the heat wick into your joint. When the joint is hot enough, as indicated by the solder melting , the solder will flow into your joint.

Lastly, use a good brand electrical solder and rosin flux. There are a lot of junk solders out there, made from reclaimed solder and having contaminates which will prevent proper flow. They will make even an expert look like an amateur. Wires need to be absolutely brighr. Small amounts of oxide left on the surface will leave little islands where solder doesn't bond and can lead t a bad joint. For badly oxidized wires, I prefer chemical removal of the oxide..
 
Soldering heavy gauge wires is never a good idea, and joining wires of different heavy gauges is worse. It's a great way to start a fire.

A better method would be attaching terminals and using a bolt or terminal block to join them.
 
EricB said:
Soldering heavy gauge wires is never a good idea, and joining wires of different heavy gauges is worse. It's a great way to start a fire.

A better method would be attaching terminals and using a bolt or terminal block to join them.
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It is just not possible in this case. But I do agree.
 
I still have the Weller soldering gun I bought in high-school. One side of the phenolic case has a chunk broken out of it and the light hasn't worked in decades. It still gets used at least once a week. It probably cost me a day's wages, something like $10. Money well spent.

They still make it.

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!0 gage wire is for 30 amp circuits, 12 gage is for 20 amp circuits. I knew one guy that wired his own house. But the inspector made him do it over again because he combined 12 and 14 gage on the same circuits. A definite code no-no. And I definitely would not solder. What is this circuit for?
 
On a soldering iron, the temperature of the tip of the iron is very important. That's one reason I am not fond of the gun type
irons. It's helpful to wipe off the iron and tin it just before using it. My preference for something like number 12 electrical
copper would be a 300 watt Hexacon but any decent iron with at least 100 watts would do the job. I like 60-40 leaded fluxed
solder for electrical stuff as it flows nicely but I have some new lead free electrical solder that works too, although I'm a little
leery of using it at times. One of my favorite irons is the Ungar pencil tip iron for smaller electrical work using it with a Variac
to control the temperature. I solder antenna wires for ham radio antennas using a propane torch with an added copper tip
made to attach on the end of the torch. I use it in places where there is no electric power in the vicinity and it works just fine.
This gets you away from the oxidation problems when using a propane torch. Heavy wires are best fluxed and tinned individually
before joining them. Clean wires, flux, good solder, and proper heating conditions are all necessary simultaneously for effective work.
 
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