What are factors for what "class" of lathe to buy?

rabler said:
The short answer is if you get the cheaper lathe, you will always wonder if the more expensive lathe would have made the work easier.
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Maybe... if the 1228 exceeds my expectation... I maybe glad I didn't need to go to the "next level" but conversely I would be wishing I spend the extra.

This is likely not good reasoning, but one reason to go with the 1228 and then subsequently all the periphery is that I don't need to sweat and pay for "high end" chucks and extras. I'll likely be looking at places like ar warner for HSS indexable cutters and shars for other stuff. After talking to PM, I was asking about their ultra precision, 3 jaw adjustable chuck... it makes no sense to put that on a 1228 and what comes with the 1228 it is a great option... and for more more accuracy, I'd be better off learning how to dial in a 4 jaw. Most of what I see doing is starting and finishing a part without removing and re-chucking it.
 
matthewsx said:
I would consider 12x36 a good size for hobby work unless you will be turning rifle barrels.

There is a reason why the Taiwan built machines command a higher price.

If you can afford it you won’t regret going bigger/better. Don’t overlook used options either.

John
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Yea, I think the 12x28 to 12x36 is a sweet spot and just bigger than anything I'll ever need... I've never run out or even come close of bed length on my 6x18... granted, I'm just getting going.

To give an idea, most of my turning will be for bushings, custom threaded fasteners, small custom stuff, spacers, shorter length telescopic tubing, etc...

I'll never say I want less quality if I already have it... but I may also never say "I need more quality" if what the 1228 meets and exceeds my needs/wants.

I casually look on the used (FB and CL)... but in the last several months, pretty much nothing in my area for what I want. I'm not into a restoration project or something old enough it's to hard to get parts for. That why PM is pretty much my go to and who I'll buy from... local enough to drive there and there responses and support from sales and tech have been great so far.
 
I think I've used the 40" 1340 bed only a handful of times. Where it's most helpful is being able to push the tailstock out of the way without having to remove it from the bed.
 
Since you are considering the 1236T I'd suggest removing the 1228 from consideration. The 1236 is only $600 more than the 1228 and you get a more substantial lathe. If space were an issue the 1228 might be a good choice, but obviously space isn't a major issue or you wouldn't be thinking about the 1236T.
Is the 1236T worth another $2000? I don't know, maybe, maybe not. I doubt you would regret getting the 1236T, but $2000 could also buy a lot of tooling and upgrades.

Don't just look at the specs of the two lathes, also look at what comes with them, often you can find tangible features that the extra money buys. In this case that isn't obvious, and in fact the actual price difference is greater since the 1236 comes standard with features that cost extra on the 1236T.

1236 includes a steel stand, and is available with a cast iron stand for an extra $439, the 1236T does not come with a stand and the optional steel stand adds $800, cast iron stand is not available. 1236 can be upgraded from 1-1/2hp to 2HP for $400, this is not an option on the 1236T. 1236 comes with more tooling, two chucks a 6" 3 jaw and 8" 4 jaw, vs just a 6" 3 jaw on the 1236T. For an additional $400 you can order the 1236 with the Preferred package (1236 PEP) which adds a foot brake, BXA tool post set, coolant system, light and carriage stop. This option is not available for the 1236T.

1236T does have a slightly larger spindle bore 1-9/16" vs 1-1/2" (1/16th difference).


If I were considering both of these lathes (and I'm not) I'm starting to talk myself into the Chinese 1236 over the 1236T which actually surprises me a bit.


I will also note the 1228 also comes with less standard features / tooling (6" 3 jaw, vs 6" 3 jaw, 8" 4 jaw and 10" face plate) than the 1236 which helps close the $600 gap between the 1228 and 1236. The stand for the 1228 alone (not included in price) adds almost $500, steel stand is standard on the 1236.
 
parshal said:
I think I've used the 40" 1340 bed only a handful of times. Where it's most helpful is being able to push the tailstock out of the way without having to remove it from the bed.
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Tangentially related to bed length is the larger thru bore size... that's been a real limitation I have on the Atlas 618... the bore size is like 1/2" so 1.5" would be very much welcomed.

A few things I've learned from the Atlas 618 (would have never known "felt it" unless I tried it first hand)
  • QCTP is requirement, don't care what size. The small OXA on my 618 makes live easy switching between tools... which means I actually do it. The AXA size for the 1228/1236 would be great as I'll likely just use 1/2" tooling.

  • Absence of a QCGB is now a requirement for next lathe (I changed the gears once, it has stayed put because it's pain, even though I want to change feed rate from .0024" to .0039" per revolution.

  • 99.9% of what I even remotely think I want to turn will fit length wise on a 6x18 lathe

  • 1/2" thru bore hole in spindle is quite the bummer. 1.5" from a PM lathe much better. I end up wasting more stock, rather than just feeding more thru for each repetitive parts... 75% of what I plan to turn is roughly 1" diameter. Before this Atlas 618 adventure, that spec was just a number on paper.

  • DRO a requirement... I cobbled together the iGaging DRO read outs (just a way to digitize my travel distance) and it was a world more fun and get faster results without stopping and measuring so much.

  • Deeper cuts when possible... when I get spindle speed up to 1500 RPM on the Atlas 618 I can take a decent DOC on aluminum, but I know more is possible... obviously, on some smaller 1/2" sized diameter aluminum, wouldn't matter if I had 500 HP motor, you are still limited to the stock deflecting.. it's not like more is even usable after a certain point. (I have a 550 watt BLDC, variable speed on my Atlas 618) so at least RPM changes are easy with a potentiometer.

  • Accuracy of it meets my needs. The smoothness of ways, saddle, etc are all fine in my book. Larger handles will be welcome though. I purchased a well cared for Atlas 618, it's very tight and no play in any movement.

  • Longer tail stock quill travel. Realistically, it's only 1.5" usable... drilling holes just 2-3" inches deep means stop, reset and lock down tail stock. I did buy this thing from edge technology to mount a chuck on your QCTP... but you have to dial that in every time you use it.

  • Most of all... a lathe was last on my ever care to have tool... now it's not!!
    • Similar experience to a band saw... never wanted to waste the workshop space. Got a small bench top model never realized how useful and much I'd use it. I couldn't care less if I had a large floor model band saw, what I got is perfect... hence, my dilemma between PM-1228 vs PM-1236 Taiwan version.
My Atlas 618 is so close but so far all at the same time.
 
Considering what you've told us about yourself and your work, the difference between the two lathes (both sold by Matt) you will not encounter the difference the extra money buys. Buy the one made in China, Matt's specifications produce fine lathes, regardless of location of production. (If you were deciding between Matt's T version and some other product, be it Grizley or a Busy Bee product, I'd suggest PM's Tiwanese version)
 
Aaron_W said:
Since you are considering the 1236T I'd suggest removing the 1228 from consideration. The 1236 is only $600 more than the 1228 and you get a more substantial lathe. If space were an issue the 1228 might be a good choice, but obviously space isn't a major issue or you wouldn't be thinking about the 1236T.
Is the 1236T worth another $2000? I don't know, maybe, maybe not. I doubt you would regret getting the 1236T, but $2000 could also buy a lot of tooling and upgrades.

Don't just look at the specs of the two lathes, also look at what comes with them, often you can find tangible features that the extra money buys. In this case that isn't obvious, and in fact the actual price difference is greater since the 1236 comes standard with features that cost extra on the 1236T.

1236 includes a steel stand, and is available with a cast iron stand for an extra $439, the 1236T does not come with a stand and the optional steel stand adds $800, cast iron stand is not available. 1236 can be upgraded from 1-1/2hp to 2HP for $400, this is not an option on the 1236T. 1236 comes with more tooling, two chucks a 6" 3 jaw and 8" 4 jaw, vs just a 6" 3 jaw on the 1236T. For an additional $400 you can order the 1236 with the Preferred package (1236 PEP) which adds a foot brake, BXA tool post set, coolant system, light and carriage stop. This option is not available for the 1236T.

1236T does have a slightly larger spindle bore 1-9/16" vs 1-1/2" (1/16th difference).


If I were considering both of these lathes (and I'm not) I'm starting to talk myself into the Chinese 1236 over the 1236T which actually surprises me a bit.


I will also note the 1228 also comes with less standard features / tooling (6" 3 jaw, vs 6" 3 jaw, 8" 4 jaw and 10" face plate) than the 1236 which helps close the $600 gap between the 1228 and 1236. The stand for the 1228 alone (not included in price) adds almost $500, steel stand is standard on the 1236.
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All good analysis. Ruled out PM-1236, maybe for no good reason.

  • Bench top is requirement for me and also on my own stand which will be a 60" to 72" by 24" deep rolling tool chest with all the drawers and stuff for all my tooling.... just too convenience for an OCD organizer person. Tool chest is around $800, modified with stabilizing caster and such. I figured the 1236 had to be on their stand given it has a brake and I assume integral to the style stand it sits on. Can't say this is rational for most, but for my space something on wheels that "can" move is a must.

  • Ideally, the overall length of the 1228 is preferred, but I'm willing to go to the 1236/1236T if need be.

  • Agree on all the other "stuff", extras and accessories you get with the 1236 over the 1228. When you add the PEP(DRO) it's now $6000 to start.

  • 4 jaw (nice to have, but I'm ok pushing that off for a long time), have yet to want/need it yet, same with face plate. I guess I see those easier to add on when needed later... though if you already have it, more likely to use it.

  • The nicer style steady rest on the 1236 and 1236T would be a nice upgrade.

  • AXA to BXA, I guess I don't really care to pay more for one over the other... not sure what I'm getting... I'm satisfied with my OXA one now.

  • 1236T doe have micrometer carriage stop.. but it extra :(. That is not an option for 1228, it just has a stop... unless make my own.

I feel as though if I spend more than the 1228 w/DRO package my focus will be on overall fit/finish/mechanics quality (in a package, bench top size) for my needs than just more "stuff" that comes with it. I may be skewed in my thinking, but that why I'm trying to decide if the considerable jump from 1228 to 1236T is worth it for me.... hence, I'm not comparing the two per say, just decided what "level/quality" I'm willing to accept and pay for.

Starting with the right base/foundation is my key decision. Accessories are secondary.
 
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T Bredehoft said:
Considering what you've told us about yourself and your work, the difference between the two lathes (both sold by Matt) you will not encounter the difference the extra money buys. Buy the one made in China, Matt's specifications produce fine lathes, regardless of location of production. (If you were deciding between Matt's T version and some other product, be it Grizley or a Busy Bee product, I'd suggest PM's Tiwanese version)
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Thanks for the input! That's the key "you will not encounter the difference the extra money buys"... and it saves me from having to buy higher end of everything else to match the quality of the lathe when I don't need it or will see the difference. It's not like I think or gather the 1228 is a slouch/inaccurate in anyway. Ultimately I don't care where they are made, I care that they are made to a certain quality level and the design is good. I'm trusting "PM specifications for manufacturing" for the 1228 or any lathe does have real world influence behind it... as it is seemingly a model sold to others for resale of potentially lesser quality control.

One thing I am sold on is getting what ever I get from PM. Local'ish to me and great support... that goes a LOOOONG way in my book for this type of purchase.
 
T Bredehoft said:
Considering what you've told us about yourself and your work, the difference between the two lathes (both sold by Matt) you will not encounter the difference the extra money buys. Buy the one made in China, Matt's specifications produce fine lathes, regardless of location of production. (If you were deciding between Matt's T version and some other product, be it Grizley or a Busy Bee product, I'd suggest PM's Tiwanese version)
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Do you have experience with either the PM-1228VF-LB or the PM-1236T?
 
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