What are factors for what "class" of lathe to buy?

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skcncx

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What are some factors for making a decision between two "classes/quality levels" of a lathe?

Mostly in regards to accuracy and quality of end result given the experience of a novice operator. I'm of the mindset that "accuracy" and "better" are relative terms...a Ferrari is not always better than a Honda Accord... they both have their roles so, it depends.

I'm not asking which lathe to buy... but I am deciding between the PM-1228 and the PM-1236T (Taiwan version). Those two are equivalent (though not equal) in features (for my usage) for but the extra quality (as PM advertises) of the more refined PM-1236T is a hard to quantify for me. Will I really need or even be able to use the extra quality? If so, the extra $3500 is worth it (based on options I selected)... but if not... well, I don't want to needlessly spend the extra $.

Context... I'm coming from an Atlas 618 and it's been very fun and great to get started. Satisfied with quality of finish (T-15 HSS inserts for aluminum) and accuracy, or at least the accuracy according to my measuring skills :). However, I want to take deeper cuts, have a quick change gear box, separate threading/power feed and a proper DRO setup. Bench top on a sturdy rolling workbench is absolute requirement. Mostly turning/boring on 2" or less diameter in aluminum and the occasional steel. I likely don't need the accuracy for gun smithing where I assume hyper tight tolerance are necessary. This is all hobby... but I do want a quality product. 99% of the time I'll just use and accept the accuracy of a 3 jaw scroll chuck... maybe an adjustable version.

There's no doubt you get what you pay for and paying extra just for better fit and finish is worth something... I think I'm just trying to convince myself the 1228 is all I need and will ever need and I won't regret some of the reported quirkiness and potential quality issues some have reported here... I'm sure, there's far more satisfied users with a few "lemon issues" for all the 1228's sold. Obviously if both were the same price, or even if the cost diff was only $500... I'd just go with the 1236T. On the other hand, there are many user of the 1228 that would get far better results (given their experience, and I hope to get there) than if I have the 1236T.

If it matters at all... I will be picking one of these up from PM's location, not having it shipped... which could mean, I can ensure and head off any shipping issues.
 
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Atlas 618 was my first lathe. I used it to make ferrules for bamboo fly rods. I wanted a bigger lathe so bought a South Bend 10K (light ten) with a 48" bed. I chambered rifles between centers. I learned a bit on that machine being that it was bigger than the Atlas but I only had it for a year or two before I went to the 1340GT. What I'm saying is that you will probably get something bigger in the future despite what you think now. If so, get the less expensive one knowing you'll be going bigger. If you swear you won't go bigger get the T.
 
Factors ...
Rigidity - the dimensions of a lathe say nothing about how sturdily it is built. Weight may provide some insight.
Quality of assembly - do things fit well or sloppy? Good bearings for minimal spindle runout. The ability of a lathe to produce good work depends a lot on how well the various ways/slides, etc, fit together. Are they machines to good, accurate tolerance so they fit together well, or were rough machined parts slapped together.
Testing - is the machine well tested before being shipped out. This tends to be more of a factor between different resellers (i.e., PM vs Grizzly) than different models by the same vendor.
Features - Gear ranges for threading, change gears vs qcgb, spindle speed ranges.
 
parshal said:
Atlas 618 was my first lathe. I used it to make ferrules for bamboo fly rods. I wanted a bigger lathe so bought a South Bend 10K (light ten) with a 48" bed. I chambered rifles between centers. I learned a bit on that machine being that it was bigger than the Atlas but I only had it for a year or two before I went to the 1340GT. What I'm saying is that you will probably get something bigger in the future despite what you think now. If so, get the less expensive one knowing you'll be going bigger. If you swear you won't go bigger get the T.
Click to expand...
True... if I have a high suspicion I'll want "bigger" in the future, it does make sense to "get by" with the less expensive for now. But I've already felt the cost of tooling and all the periphery setup... so this is likely the last lathe I'll buy and invest in and be happy with. A few hours of turning time a week... unless I turn it into making profit... then the decision becomes easier. The cost from 1236T to the 1340T is only $500 so that would likely be on my radar if I "level up" on what class of machine I buy.
 
rabler said:
Factors ...
Rigidity - the dimensions of a lathe say nothing about how sturdily it is built. Weight may provide some insight.
Quality of assembly - do things fit well or sloppy? Good bearings for minimal spindle runout. The ability of a lathe to produce good work depends a lot on how well the various ways/slides, etc, fit together. Are they machines to good, accurate tolerance so they fit together well, or were rough machined parts slapped together.
Testing - is the machine well tested before being shipped out. This tends to be more of a factor between different resellers (i.e., PM vs Grizzly) than different models by the same vendor.
Features - Gear ranges for threading, change gears vs qcgb, spindle speed ranges.
Click to expand...
Agreed on all those... for both lathes I'm considering, they are equivalent in all the features I want, size, both have QCGB and enough speed range, 10-1800 RPM. The quality of assembly is what seems to be a gamble on the PM-1228, larger margin of getting the "good one" or the "off cut" one. The 1236T or any of the Taiwan ones from PM, according to them are in a higher fit and finish class... better attention to detail and bearings all around... hence the more $$. On the other than, seeming the 1228 has been very popular and lots of satisfied users (likely the position I'm in). If I couldn't swing the $ of the 1236T... it's would be easy... it's always a best bang for the buck, not just less $ initial price.

Picking up locally, (I'll have to check) is if I can operate it the movement on all axis and a quick run through to ensure it's not a lemon, may be the ticket on my purchase.
 
What @skcncx just said.

I just swapped a Craftsman 12x36 for a Sebastian 16" swing H-model. Much larger and more capable machine, but practically none of the old tooling transferred. 1.5"x8tpi, MT3 spindle to 2.125"x8tpi, MT4.5. MT2 tail stock, to MT3. AXA QCTP got swapped out for a CXA, and all the toolholders with it. I would look at the idea of "upgrading later" with a very jaundiced eye, unless you're going to accept upgrading it all.
 
Winegrower said:
Right on, the money comes and goes, but a lathe is forever.
Click to expand...

All true... to a point!! If money was no object, I'd go back 3 years and double the size of my shop, or make 2, one dedicated for woodworking and the other for metal, fab and welding. Sometimes constraints are a good thing.
 
I would consider 12x36 a good size for hobby work unless you will be turning rifle barrels.

There is a reason why the Taiwan built machines command a higher price.

If you can afford it you won’t regret going bigger/better. Don’t overlook used options either.

John
 
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