What are factors for what "class" of lathe to buy?

The 1236T comes with a 2 hp motor in the 3 phase version instead of 1.5 hp with single phase.

A vector drive VFD is able to operate the motor at full torque at very low speeds, but I’m not sure the motor that comes with the lathe is up to running as low as a true inverter rated motor could do. The motor is custom and no information is readily available on it. I have been using mine for a year and a half without any issues, so I don’t feel there is a need to change the motor unless you are pushing it beyond normal operation. I haven’t oversped my motor yet like Mark recommends, and I don’t even have a speed pot installed. I set my vfd up differently than most and use it more as a soft starter than to vary the speed, so changing gears is necessary. I also used the coolant switch to change to a fast braking for threading, as well as reducing the speed to 50%, this way I get the low speed and high speed ranges at the flip of a switch. I do mostly metric threading, so I need to stop the spindle and reverse for each pass. I will probably add a speed pot at some point so I can fine tune the speeds to better match the machining conditions, and also try the expanded operating range of the motor that Mark suggested above, but so far it has not been a priority. I want a tachometer installed before I do that so I know what speed I am running at. I did not add a braking resistor and my Teco CV7300 vfd can stop the 4 jaw chuck from 500 rpm in a half second, so for my uses, a braking resistor is not needed. If you wanted to brake quickly from full speed, then a braking resistor would likely be needed.

You will want a VFD with single phase input and 230v for your rated motor power. You can use a three phase input VFD, but then you will need to upsize the VFD power at least 1.7x if used on single phase since a 2hp three phase input vfd will not be able to handle the current from a single phase source and give you 2hp output.

You will need to modify the controls a bit, the spindle drive lever needs to go through a relay that prevents the vfd from starting if you get a power failure and leave the lever in a drive position. Basically, you will remove all the existing relays and rewire through the VFD. It’s not difficult to do, just takes a bit of time and some control relays. There are plenty of people here who have done this and can help with questions. There are VFDs with internal programming capabilities and you can do relays through programming instead of physical relays, but you would need to dig through the manuals to make sure it has sufficient inputs to do that.
 
A vector drive VFD is able to operate the motor at full torque at very low speeds
sorta true, sorta not. Due to heating and lack of cooling, it is common to consider to derate the torque on a VFD controlled motor by a third at half speed. You derate the torque even more a lower speeds. due to excessive current and additional heating.

I haven’t oversped my motor yet like Mark recommends

I have run all my 3PH motors to 150% (90 Hz) without any problems at all. I do not own a VFD rated motor.
 
I found this thread while looking for recent input on the PM 1228 lathe as I'm trying to decide between it, the 1130 and 1022, balanced on the "Buy the biggest you can afford" vs. I don't necessarily have a need for the biggest barring the unknown future. I have the PM728 and realized after the fact as a first time machine purchaser/owner that one should start with the lathe first and a project I was working on bore that out, although small. My purpose for chiming in is that I checked Grizzly, despite wanting to keep things uniform and they created an additional twist with this new machine I do not recall seeing mentioned in this thread, it looks pretty good by comparison and opening the site in a different browser might be able to get the 5% off coupon I saw to come back up to sweeten the deal. I'm out over the weight unfortunately;

 
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I found this thread while looking for recent input on the PM 1228 lathe as I'm trying to decide between it, the 1130 and 1022, balanced on the "Buy the biggest you can afford" vs. I don't necessarily have a need for the biggest barring the unknown future. I have the PM728 and realized after the fact as a first time machine purchaser/owner that one should start with the lathe first and a project I was working on bore that out, although small. My purpose for chiming in is that I checked Grizzly, despite wanting to keep things uniform and they created an additional twist with this new machine I do not recall seeing mentioned in this thread, it looks pretty good by comparison and opening the site in a different browser might be able to get the 5% off coupon I saw to come back up to sweeten the deal. I'm out over the weight unfortunately;

I think I would opt for this one instead of the Grizzly.


It just looks like a better built machine. Metal hand wheels, auto feed not built into the lead screw, etc.
 
I found this thread while looking for recent input on the PM 1228 lathe as I'm trying to decide between it, the 1130 and 1022, balanced on the "Buy the biggest you can afford" vs. I don't necessarily have a need for the biggest barring the unknown future. I have the PM728 and realized after the fact as a first time machine purchaser/owner that one should start with the lathe first and a project I was working on bore that out, although small. My purpose for chiming in is that I checked Grizzly, despite wanting to keep things uniform and they created an additional twist with this new machine I do not recall seeing mentioned in this thread, it looks pretty good by comparison and opening the site in a different browser might be able to get the 5% off coupon I saw to come back up to sweeten the deal. I'm out over the weight unfortunately;

If you are comparing the PM-1228 to that grizzly.. keep in mind the PM-1228 is very unique in that size since it has a pretty good QCGB for different threads (15 in total, abeit all imperial and even TPI's) with no manual gear changes. So switching from 15 TPI threading options to just a turning/power feed option requires no gear changes. That may be somewhat true for the grizzy, but just looking at the front panel it seems you have just 3 speeds to choose from so like the 1130 it seems the 3 speed change is really more for fine tuning your power feed rate, not for switching between threading TPI feeding.

To me.. a decent (while not all TPIs and metrics) QCGB is HUGE... but it's all pref. Comparing to the 1130, 1022, then you are back to changing gears if you switch between turning and threading. Early in my machining and lathe experience... I'll be landing on the PM-1236T version with 40 different pitches from a QCGB and in typical fashion for me... when I don't have a feature, I want it and when I have it, I don't use it or find out I really didn't need it. :)
 
I think I would opt for this one instead of the Grizzly.

If you are comparing the PM-1228 to that grizzly.. keep in mind the PM-1228 is very unique in that size since it has a pretty good QCGB for different threads (15 in total, abeit all imperial and even TPI's) with no manual gear changes.

I mentioned the Grizzly because it's a new product on their site that someone here might be interested in. I'm pretty set on another PM product and still moving left and right on the options, but feeling I'm going to side with the 1228.
 
You can put short things on a long lathe, but you have less options with long things on a short lathe :grin:
 
I have been happy with my PM728 mill and am waiting on a 1228 but the PM lead times are a factor.
 
I mentioned the Grizzly because it's a new product on their site that someone here might be interested in. I'm pretty set on another PM product and still moving left and right on the options, but feeling I'm going to side with the 1228.
Yea, I've looked at grizzly options, they have a lot of options, almost too many (PM as well though). Few, but likely important factors separate them... hard to tell for the uninitiated... like myself. I wish it was as simple as a "good", "better", "best" decision and cost increasing accordingly.

To me, PM wins (so far) because of their response and support. I'm sure there are a few people who may disagree, but so far, they have been quick to answer all my questions.

The 1228 from PM looks great. I watched Frank Hoose's 8 part review/overview of it and even reached out to him directly. He loves it as many others do as well. In my opinion, the ONLY feature that is a bummer is the easy ability to change power feed direction going from left to right. That requires a wrench and quick changes in the gear box panel. That only struct me odd because it has a decent QCGB which none of the smaller 10 or 11x sized machines do, but they do have feed direction knobs.
 
What are some factors for making a decision between two "classes/quality levels" of a lathe?

Mostly in regards to accuracy and quality of end result given the experience of a novice operator. I'm of the mindset that "accuracy" and "better" are relative terms...a Ferrari is not always better than a Honda Accord... they both have their roles so, it depends.

I'm not asking which lathe to buy... but I am deciding between the PM-1228 and the PM-1236T (Taiwan version). Those two are equivalent (though not equal) in features (for my usage) for but the extra quality (as PM advertises) of the more refined PM-1236T is a hard to quantify for me. Will I really need or even be able to use the extra quality? If so, the extra $3500 is worth it (based on options I selected)... but if not... well, I don't want to needlessly spend the extra $.

Context... I'm coming from an Atlas 618 and it's been very fun and great to get started. Satisfied with quality of finish (T-15 HSS inserts for aluminum) and accuracy, or at least the accuracy according to my measuring skills :). However, I want to take deeper cuts, have a quick change gear box, separate threading/power feed and a proper DRO setup. Bench top on a sturdy rolling workbench is absolute requirement. Mostly turning/boring on 2" or less diameter in aluminum and the occasional steel. I likely don't need the accuracy for gun smithing where I assume hyper tight tolerance are necessary. This is all hobby... but I do want a quality product. 99% of the time I'll just use and accept the accuracy of a 3 jaw scroll chuck... maybe an adjustable version.

There's no doubt you get what you pay for and paying extra just for better fit and finish is worth something... I think I'm just trying to convince myself the 1228 is all I need and will ever need and I won't regret some of the reported quirkiness and potential quality issues some have reported here... I'm sure, there's far more satisfied users with a few "lemon issues" for all the 1228's sold. Obviously if both were the same price, or even if the cost diff was only $500... I'd just go with the 1236T. On the other hand, there are many user of the 1228 that would get far better results (given their experience, and I hope to get there) than if I have the 1236T.

If it matters at all... I will be picking one of these up from PM's location, not having it shipped... which could mean, I can ensure and head off any shipping issues.

I used to have a PM1228 lathe when I was back in the states. It's a great little lathe especially if space/stairs/apartment is an issue. Good little lathe that I've successfully used for gunsmithing and it really punches well above its weight.

HOWEVER...

A PM1228 lathe is a bench top lathe, make no mistake about it. As long as you have that expectation then you'll be happy with it. Which means you won't be able to make heavy cuts like Abom does on his videos, and your choice of inserts will need to be mostly finishing cuts to get a good finish.

From what I can see a PM1236 lathe is a completely different lathe. It's gear head, so that means unlike a 1228 you can take heavier cuts by slowing your speed down in exchange for higher torque. Whereas a 1228 uses a BLDC motor that may have torque issues at lower speed and all that (though I never really found it to be a problem).

So if you need a lathe with punch get the 1236.

I have a victor lathe now, but unfortunately can't do gunsmithing anymore because it's not legal in my country (Taiwan).
 
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