Welding or Brazing recommendations

LOL.

It's too small a job for a large welding shop so I'd be surprised if they'd be interested in doing it for much less, if at all, especially if they're busy. I reached out to a couple of local people that seemed to be either a one-person show or a smallish shop. We'll see.

If too expensive I'll just buy a tig welder and get enough practice to be comfortable with it and do it myself. There is always a grinder available and this will be painted!


If it is going to be painted, you have the option of (1) putting down a sound weld irregardless of it’s appearance, (2) grind down if needed, (3) auto body filler or JB Weld, & (4) sand to perfection.
 
TIG is certainly preferred and would likely be easiest. For something like this that is non structural and mostly hidden, brazing is really not so bad. You have to get all the oxide off the surface just before brazing- it grows back in hours. The flux is important. For something, this small, propane would likely work. I've had pretty good luck with Alum brazing- its all in the surface prep- scratched and clean. As far as holding it together, I might suggest, pushing on those outside pieces with a sharp probe mounted to a base- something like an old surface gage scriber arm. What you want is to hold things without adding a lot of thermal mass. Post your results either way. One concern with brazing is being in a high vibration environment. Brazed joints can be brittle. There is a great process that was used in electronic packaging in the past (most things are just CNC hogged out of slab these days) called dip brazing. Its an alternative and usually cheaper process to CNC or die cast etc. It looks a bit like die cast when done well. Good luck.
 
@MyLilMule Thanks for the great idea! I’m not on Facebook much but my wife is and she made a post on a local community group with little success so far.

I got quotes from the other welders I had reached out to ranging from $80-100. Essentially that’s their “minimum” for small jobs, which I understand.

So, I placed an order for a Primeweld 225X, and will do this myself. I figured I can pay someone else to do it (much) better, but where’s the fun in that! I’ll practice enough so that I’m comfortable and will then attempt it. As has been mentioned before, I also have a grinder and cans of paint…

I’ll post an update, but it’ll likely be a while!
 
Others will also tell you that welding aluminum is NOT as easy as welding carbon steel. At all. I'd also suggest you go to Weld Metals Online and get some aluminum coupons - use code MYLILMULE for 10% off :) I get a few stacks from time to time just to stay in practice.
 
Others will also tell you that welding aluminum is NOT as easy as welding carbon steel. At all. I'd also suggest you go to Weld Metals Online and get some aluminum coupons - use code MYLILMULE for 10% off :) I get a few stacks from time to time just to stay in practice.
Didn’t know about this site. I just looked quickly and their kits seems great!

Thanks for the suggestion.
 
I would also select TIG for this since it is a visible part, but poo-poo on everyone for poo-pooing the MIG option. MIG is best for structural applications and production, but it's not that bad to use. It's by far the easiest way to get a strong weld on thicker sheet or bar. This license plate frame only needs a few short welds. Since the OP has no other way of welding alloy, and considering he could hook up an import spool gun to one of his existing welders, I'd say that is a viable option to: 1.) finish the job, 2.) acquire a new tool/capability.

Remember, a 200 amp welder is a 1/4" maximum capacity machine on aluminum- watch your duty cycle.
 
I would also select TIG for this since it is a visible part, but poo-poo on everyone for poo-pooing the MIG option. MIG is best for structural applications and production, but it's not that bad to use. It's by far the easiest way to get a strong weld on thicker sheet or bar. This license plate frame only needs a few short welds. Since the OP has no other way of welding alloy, and considering he could hook up an import spool gun to one of his existing welders, I'd say that is a viable option to: 1.) finish the job, 2.) acquire a new tool/capability.

Remember, a 200 amp welder is a 1/4" maximum capacity machine on aluminum- watch your duty cycle.
I'm amazed at guys who buy machines and don't know what duty cycle is.
 
I'm amazed at guys who buy machines and don't know what duty cycle is.
No kidding, you can tell by the machines they buy. This $300 welder does 300 amps! Probably true, for thirty seconds out of every thirty minutes. Capacity is a cheap spec to claim, duty cycle is not. Full duty will add a whole digit to the price of any welding setup.
 
No kidding, you can tell by the machines they buy. This $300 welder does 300 amps! Probably true, for thirty seconds out of every thirty minutes. Capacity is a cheap spec to claim, duty cycle is not. Full duty will add a whole digit to the price of any welding setup.
A friend comes to me for advice on a mig machine he was ready to pull the trigger on. It was 4/5 hundred and he said it could weld up to a 1/2". I replied that he needs to add another 2.500 hundred (all in) for the right welder he didn't think so, still touted what the machine was capable of. Nuff said.
 
A friend comes to me for advice on a mig machine he was ready to pull the trigger on. It was 4/5 hundred and he said it could weld up to a 1/2". I replied that he needs to add another 2.500 hundred (all in) for the right welder he didn't think so, still touted what the machine was capable of. Nuff said.
Hard to warn some folks. It's just not in their experience base to have a machine die on them in mid-weld. If you are welding bigger stuff, you need a decent machine. Otherwise you are waiting for the machine to recover every 5 or 10 minutes. In the end, that cheap welder costs less, because it does less.

You want duty factor, you will simply have to pay more. Simply can't BS duty factor, you either pay for it, or you won't have it.
 
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