Vevor Drill Bit Sharpener Trials - Split Point Adjustment

RickKr

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Leapfrogging from an earlier thread where the Vevor drill bit sharpener came up, "Are Drill Bits Consumables?", I was intrigued and interested enough to get one. I was hoping for a nice complement to my Tormek drill bit sharpening system and interested in the split-pointing feature. I've had it for a couple days and have tried it out a bit. As could be expected, it is a mixed bag. In addition to and perhaps in its own right, I was interested in the possibility of the Vevor being able to produce an adequate relief grind that I could refine using the Tormek. Given that there are MANY general review videos out there, I'm not going to do that. Rather, get right to my areas of interest.

I am a little less than thrilled with the roughness of the grind pattern, but not at all surprised. It is definetely better than the Drill Doctors that I had tried years ago. Given that it is not going to be on the cutting lip, it really is just cosmetic/aesthetic, so...
Vevor Primary Relief Grind 02-18-24 640.JPG

My first attempt at split pointing seemed good, at first. As with the primary relief grind, it was fast and easy. But on closer examination, I could see that the split point wasn't complete, in that it did not reach the chisel point apex, the little shiny sliver to the left of the point.
Vevor Incomplete Split Point 02-18-24 640.JPG

There is a dedicated "port" or jig for doing the split point, that directs the drill point to the top and vertical side of the grinding wheel. Placement of the pins around the perimeter of the port regulate the extent of split point created. I found I liked the smallest setting best. BTW, the graduated dial in the upper left corner sets the depth of the split point, but there is no description of the purpose or use of this function in the user manual, only a pointer in the parts diagram. It matters.
Vevor Split Point Jig Top View 02-18-24 640.JPG

Looking things over, it is clear this port is a moveable insert held in place by set screws.
Vevor Split Point Jig Front View 02-18-24 640.JPG

The insert has a flange that overhangs the left side of the receiving pocket, likely to prevent accumulation of grinding dust, of which there is A LOT. The problem I saw was that, while the set screws allowed repositioning of the insert, there was no good way to control or set the position as this flange covers the slot between the receiving pocket and the insert.
Vevor Split Point Jig Insert 02-18-24 640.JPG

Clearly a relatively fine/sensitive what of locating the insert was going to be needed. I opted to install a set screw on the back wall of the pocket as an adjustable stand-off/spacer. It means removing the insert to make the adjustments, but the alternative seemed to take drilling holes in the insert to access the set screw and I didn't want little hole that would accumulated grinding dust.
Vevor Split Point Jig Set Screw 02-18-24 640.JPG

My first attempt at setting the spit point lateral location was an improvement over how the original and probably would have worked. But I'd gone this far, I wanted to get it right.
Vevor Improved Split Point 02-18-24 640.JPG

Adjustments of the set screw were tiny, on the order of only a few degrees, as in 5-10 deg. Not more shiny sliver.
Vevor Split Point Completed 02-18-24 640.JPG
 

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Nice write up with great pictures ! The course grind would stop me from buying it
 
Saw a youtube video on this somewhere which outlined split-point modifications. IIRC they substituted a different stone for a better finish. I have so many drill bits I haven't really gotten around to worrying much about it. I do occasionally touch some up by hand. Might think about giving the Vevor a try, as I've had good luck with some of their other products. Mike
 
Do you need to adjust the split using your new set screw mod for every size bit you grind, or is it a one and done?

I had a feeling this was a "kit" in spite of the positivity from the jolly chuckleheads on youtube. Hopefully the grinding wheels will settle down and give you a smoother finish after some use.
 
Nice write up with great pictures ! The course grind would stop me from buying it
I agree, which was one of my issues with the DD. It isn't as bad as it appears. Because I can refine the cutting lip with finer grade wheels on my Tormek, I can improve on the working edge finish. I would, however, actually be okay using some straight off this machine.

I think the lighting accentuates the rough appearance and I think using my phone to take the photos isn't that great. The digital camera I have is a point and shoot, so controlling focus is difficult and the exposures it comes up with I think are too dark.

Case in point is this four-facet point done entirely on the Tormek. At least to 600 grit, maybe 1200, but it appears much rougher in the image than in reality.
Four Facet Drill Point 02-19-24 640.JPG
 
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Saw a youtube video on this somewhere which outlined split-point modifications. IIRC they substituted a different stone for a better finish. I have so many drill bits I haven't really gotten around to worrying much about it. I do occasionally touch some up by hand. Might think about giving the Vevor a try, as I've had good luck with some of their other products. Mike
Do you need to adjust the split using your new set screw mod for every size bit you grind, or is it a one and done?

I had a feeling this was a "kit" in spite of the positivity from the jolly chuckleheads on youtube. Hopefully the grinding wheels will settle down and give you a smoother finish after some use.
That is a good point, hopefully it does settle into finer finish as it breaks in. My CBN and Tormek diamond wheels have.

I'd be very interested in trying some finer grinding wheels, but I haven't found any that look like they'd work. It came with a diamond wheel, ostensibly for doing carbide, but it is the same grit, 230, as the CBN wheel. My experience with these on the Tormek is that for similar (nominal) grits, CBN seems to leave a finer finish.

Can't say yet on the split point adjustment for different sized bits, but I suspect not. Smallest I've done so far is 1/4" with a refinement of the cutting lips on the Tormek. Did not split point it. The collet chuck and fixtures seem to hold and align the bits nicely, so there's a good chance this setting will work for smaller bits. IF that were the case, it is a non-starter - way too much fiddling to have to change for different sizes.

Most things from China, particularly at lower price-points like this thing are "kits". This one is fairly decent and as has been pointed out in the reviews, very solid and rigid.
 
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Any advice on using the Tormek fixture? I seem to be able to make it work only by accident / serendipity.

GsT
 
Almost pulled the trigger last week on that Vevor machine…

Looks like it should be okay for the stuff I do…

Thank you for posting your experience with it.
 
Any advice on using the Tormek fixture? I seem to be able to make it work only by accident / serendipity.

GsT
Yes, a few suggestions.

First, if you are not already familiar with it, an excellent resource for all aspects of using Tormeks is the Tormek sponsored Tormek Community Forum. Replete with very experienced and helpful Tormek users. There are tool specific subforums, such as knives, scissors, wood turning, drill bits and others. I've been an active participant since getting my T8 in August 2017. Activity has diminished in recent years, so the value would be in going back to read historic postings. I have also contributed some modifications/improvements so I recommend going back as far as 2017.

Tormek has a basic usage training video, but it really just shows the rudimentary aspects, but it is worth watching.

The best instructional video that I have found is by Alan Holtham. Goes into much more detail and is more about training than selling.
(Edit: corrected link)

It would be helpful to have an idea of where you are running into problems than for me to try to offer much up front. One thing I can say is getting the lip aligment (rotatonally) right is important. It affects where on the lips grinding occurs and how much grinding is needed. Careful and deliberate motion when grinding is important, keeping the clamp/drill in place without lifting or canting, particularly when removing it from the carrier tray. It is easy to accidentally touch the grinding wheel when lifting the clamp, which can really set you back.

Are you working with the standard grinding wheel (SG) or the blackstone wheel (SB)? The SG is not really aggressive enough for HSS drill bits. I tried and was really frustrated with how long it took. The DBS-22 jig essentially relies on creating a four-facet lip geometry that includes pointing the chisel point with the secondary bevel. The secondary bevel takes a lot of grinding which the SG wheel is just not adequate. I wasn't all that happy with the SB wheel either and started chasing several other methods of for heavier metal removal: 1) traditional high speed grinding wheels fitted to the Tormek, 2) low speed bench grinder fitted with the Tormek BGM-100 which provides the "support bar" (USB) in front of the grinder for use of the Tormek jigs, 3) belt grinder, also fitted with the USB and eventually Tormek diamond and after-market CBN wheels.

This is where the Vevor enters the scene... What I just went through above shows the Vevor is very effective at providing the secondary clearance, leaving only the primary relief to be ground by the Tormek, which the SG wheel is likely adequate but definitely the SB would be. As part of my efforts last night, I used the Vevor to do just that on drills that were substantially dull and chipped, but when they just needed a light touch-up, I only used the Tormek to grind the primar relief.

I went on a good bit longer than I anticipated. See if any of this helps and get back.

Rick
 
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