I did at one point loosen the framing and tried to shim between the framing and bench to no avail. I was getting the same sketchy reading as before. Which may be due to the lack of bracing underneath the lathe and bench. So I aborted that altogether and bolted it back to the framing. Figured I would think on it some and revisit it at a later date. Well I’m feeling that I should go ahead and tackle it in the next couple weeks while I have a little time so I figured I would seek some knowledge from you guys
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Twist in my bed
- Thread starter Pevehouse
- Start date
- Joined
- Jan 2, 2019
- Messages
- 6,587
If you keep everything bolted up tight it won’t be able to change from where it’s at. To be clear, I’m talking about the bolts from the top of the stand to the lathe bed itself, not the ones from the bottom of the stands to the extra framing.
I can’t really tell what the “framing” is besides the pieces that are bolted to the base. Is there anything the lathe bed is bolted to beside the base? My lathe came with a similar base but I no longer use it since I found the storage in it almost worthless.
Having those pieces at the base could provide additional stability and help prevent the machine tipping over. If you’re concerned that they are causing a problem by all means remove them but I doubt they’re causing the issue you’re concerned with.
The stand is two bases held together by the thick steel plate bolted to either side and there’s almost no way raising it from the ends like that could put enough strain on the center plate to deform it if that’s what you’re worried about. I had mine suspended similarly at one time and it didn’t change the dimensions on the stand or put any extra stress on the lathe bed itself. I also didn’t have any leveling foot pockets besides the ones at the end like yours.
The lathe bed itself is plenty substantial, it’s a bench top machine rather than a larger one with an integrated cast iron base. There’s not meant to be any “support” in the middle of the bed, it sits on the feet at either end. It’ll work the same regardless of whether it’s on the stock stand or a solid bench.
Apologies if I don’t understand what your exact issue is but I’d definitely recommend doing the two collar test. That’s the best way to assess how the machine actually performs.
“Level” really only matters on a lathe to remove taper that can happen when turning long pieces, the lathe can be on any angle as long as the ways are parallel to each other and at right angles to to the headstock and tailstock.
I do have to admit I’ve personally never turned anything long enough for it to matter on my machine which is similar to yours. We have a lot of folks on here with more experience than I do on setting up machines but ultimately what matters is does your setup make parts an accurate as you need.
If you’re new, this may be a case of overthinking the situation. Lots of folks run into the trap of thinking everything needs to be perfect before starting to make stuff. I definitely wouldn’t get into trying to align the headstock before you have a lot more experience measuring and are sure there’s a good reason to do so, too easy to make it worse rather than better.
Highly recommend making some chips soon, it’s definitely way too clean right now
John
Last edited:
- Joined
- Jan 2, 2019
- Messages
- 6,587
Here’s my lathe, you can see my stand evolution in this thread.
www.hobby-machinist.com
John
Samson (Tida) TD-5AA lathe
Just picked this up today. And.... So I can check it against what Mr. Fang found in 1981 :grin: John
www.hobby-machinist.com
John
loosen the bolts which secure the bed to the base. I think it's a common issue. Loosen them and let it sit a couple of days. Then level and tighten them up. You may have to re-level after a couple of months. Start at the beginning all over again by loosening the bolts which attach the bed to the base. I had the same issue on my old Clausing.
Lathe bolted to stand, stand sitting on the floor.
If lathe is solidly bolted to the stand, leave that alone for now.
The bed is like rubber. It will move, but it takes time.
There is not enough weight to see rapid bending, but it should move with time.
Work only one end.
Start with headstock. If the cabinet has 4 feet, make sure it is level both ways.
Apply sidepressure to make sure it is solid and in plane.
Headstock done for now.
Place level on front way, parallel to bed and make that way level, you headstock should stay level.
Check front to back at tailstock and try to keep them level front to back while adjusting tailstock end to be level along the front.
At some point the lathe may not respond o a leveling foot may come off the ground.
Stop at this point.
Gravity will do its work pull it down.
Repeat tailstock alignment.
Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
If lathe is solidly bolted to the stand, leave that alone for now.
The bed is like rubber. It will move, but it takes time.
There is not enough weight to see rapid bending, but it should move with time.
Work only one end.
Start with headstock. If the cabinet has 4 feet, make sure it is level both ways.
Apply sidepressure to make sure it is solid and in plane.
Headstock done for now.
Place level on front way, parallel to bed and make that way level, you headstock should stay level.
Check front to back at tailstock and try to keep them level front to back while adjusting tailstock end to be level along the front.
At some point the lathe may not respond o a leveling foot may come off the ground.
Stop at this point.
Gravity will do its work pull it down.
Repeat tailstock alignment.
Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
lol, I know it’s too clean. I do think I got stuck trying to get everything perfect. I just felt like I should at least be able to get it leveled and that’s where I ran into problems. No matter what I do, when I level one end, it throws the other end off. Just acting like it’s too ridged. I will take your advice and do the two collar test before I attempt any more changes. Thank youIf you keep everything bolted up tight it won’t be able to change from where it’s at. To be clear, I’m talking about the bolts from the top of the stand to the lathe bed itself, not the ones from the bottom of the stands to the extra framing.
I can’t really tell what the “framing” is besides the pieces that are bolted to the base. Is there anything the lathe bed is bolted to beside the base? My lathe came with a similar base but I no longer use it since I found the storage in it almost worthless.
Having those pieces at the base could provide additional stability and help prevent the machine tipping over. If you’re concerned that they are causing a problem by all means remove them but I doubt they’re causing the issue you’re concerned with.
The stand is two bases held together by the thick steel plate bolted to either side and there’s almost no way raising it from the ends like that could put enough strain on the center plate to deform it if that’s what you’re worried about. I had mine suspended similarly at one time and it didn’t change the dimensions on the stand or put any extra stress on the lathe bed itself. I also didn’t have any leveling foot pockets besides the ones at the end like yours.
The lathe bed itself is plenty substantial, it’s a bench top machine rather than a larger one with an integrated cast iron base. There’s not meant to be any “support” in the middle of the bed, it sits on the feet at either end. It’ll work the same regardless of whether it’s on the stock stand or a solid bench.
Apologies if I don’t understand what your exact issue is but I’d definitely recommend doing the two collar test. That’s the best way to assess how the machine actually performs.
“Level” really only matters on a lathe to remove taper that can happen when turning long pieces, the lathe can be on any angle as long as the ways are parallel to each other and at right angles to to the headstock and tailstock.
I do have to admit I’ve personally never turned anything long enough for it to matter on my machine which is similar to yours. We have a lot of folks on here with more experience than I do on setting up machines but ultimately what matters is does your setup make parts an accurate as you need.
If you’re new, this may be a case of overthinking the situation. Lots of folks run into the trap of thinking everything needs to be perfect before starting to make stuff. I definitely wouldn’t get into trying to align the headstock before you have a lot more experience measuring and are sure there’s a good reason to do so, too easy to make it worse rather than better.
Highly recommend making some chips soon, it’s definitely way too clean right now
John
Lathe Leveling and 2 collar test.pdf
drive.google.com
That is a PDF of an old Southbend manual that goes over how to do the two collar test, scroll down for the precision alignment section. It's specific to them, but your lathe likely has similar mounting points.
Keep in mind that "level" as in "perpendicular to gravity" is not required. It's a nice place to start if you can, but mostly for round objects rolling around. For example, the navy mounts them in ships. Those are probably never level to gravity, but they are straight and that does matter. That is what the two collar test measures.
And remember that machinist levels are stupid sensitive. You can chase the bubble around forever if you would like.
That makes sense. I will give that a shot
Will do. That’s one thing I have not tried. Thank you
- Joined
- Dec 18, 2022
- Messages
- 1,868
His machine is the same size as mine, its 1100 to 1200 pounds on the floor, its not a bench top machine.If you keep everything bolted up tight it won’t be able to change from where it’s at. To be clear, I’m talking about the bolts from the top of the stand to the lathe bed itself, not the ones from the bottom of the stands to the extra framing.
I can’t really tell what the “framing” is besides the pieces that are bolted to the base. Is there anything the lathe bed is bolted to beside the base? My lathe came with a similar base but I no longer use it since I found the storage in it almost worthless.
Having those pieces at the base could provide additional stability and help prevent the machine tipping over. If you’re concerned that they are causing a problem by all means remove them but I doubt they’re causing the issue you’re concerned with.
The stand is two bases held together by the thick steel plate bolted to either side and there’s almost no way raising it from the ends like that could put enough strain on the center plate to deform it if that’s what you’re worried about. I had mine suspended similarly at one time and it didn’t change the dimensions on the stand or put any extra stress on the lathe bed itself. I also didn’t have any leveling foot pockets besides the ones at the end like yours.
The lathe bed itself is plenty substantial, it’s a bench top machine rather than a larger one with an integrated cast iron base. There’s not meant to be any “support” in the middle of the bed, it sits on the feet at either end. It’ll work the same regardless of whether it’s on the stock stand or a solid bench.
Apologies if I don’t understand what your exact issue is but I’d definitely recommend doing the two collar test. That’s the best way to assess how the machine actually performs.
“Level” really only matters on a lathe to remove taper that can happen when turning long pieces, the lathe can be on any angle as long as the ways are parallel to each other and at right angles to to the headstock and tailstock.
I do have to admit I’ve personally never turned anything long enough for it to matter on my machine which is similar to yours. We have a lot of folks on here with more experience than I do on setting up machines but ultimately what matters is does your setup make parts an accurate as you need.
If you’re new, this may be a case of overthinking the situation. Lots of folks run into the trap of thinking everything needs to be perfect before starting to make stuff. I definitely wouldn’t get into trying to align the headstock before you have a lot more experience measuring and are sure there’s a good reason to do so, too easy to make it worse rather than better.
Highly recommend making some chips soon, it’s definitely way too clean right now
John