Trying to turn stainless steel taper.

[benmychree]

Turning between centers is always less rigid than chucking, and possibly the balls make it even less rigid.

 

[benmychree]

I sometimes back up a chattering cut with a lead hammer, trying different angularity and location behind the part or at an angle behind and above the part, looking for a sweet spot that will cancel the vibration/chatter. It may be that turning such a part length and small diameter is not possible or practical, especially between centers.

 

[FTlatheworks]

I sometimes back up a chattering cut with a lead hammer, trying different angularity and location behind the part or at an angle behind and above the part, looking for a sweet spot that will cancel the vibration/chatter. It may be that turning such a part length and small diameter is not possible or practical, especially between centers.

Is there another way to do it, or are you telling me it’s not possible?

 

[benmychree]

If it were possible to construct a follow rest that could retract at the same rate as the taper, it might be able to be done, but that would not be an easy task. Long skinny tapers, like taper pins are produced on Swiss type automatic screw machines, where the stock is fed out of the collet while it is rotating and the tool is retracting radially while remaining stationary axially.

 

[FTlatheworks]

If it were possible to construct a follow rest that could retract at the same rate as the taper, it might be able to be done, but that would not be an easy task. Long skinny tapers, like taper pins are produced on Swiss type automatic screw machines, where the stock is fed out of the collet while it is rotating and the tool is retracting radially while remaining stationary axially.

Let me start by saying I have done it before. With cheap materials and very little prior experience. I’m just trying to make it easier. Should my tool be turned to the same angle as my tailstock taper attachment is tapering the stock?

 

[benmychree]

With the very small angle that you are using, I doubt that it would make much difference, the main thing is that it should be sharp with little or no nose radius and minimal side or front clearance that would tend to make the tool dig in, the tool should be about 90 degrees to the finishes cut angle.

 

[FTlatheworks]

With the very small angle that you are using, I doubt that it would make much difference, the main thing is that it should be sharp with little or no nose radius and minimal side or front clearance that would tend to make the tool dig in, the tool should be about 90 degrees to the finishes cut angle.

Alright, Thank you!

 

[Richcan22]

I’ve been cutting 316 and 304. Been challenging but I would have to check what insert I bought. When I bought my tool holder the rep sent me the tool insert. But I’m going to rebuild my tail stock spindle with stainless MT3 I have broken more cut off inserts than my regular turning tool. Plus you need to go slower speed. And make sure machine is rigid tighten up any slack in machine. I tried tapping and had to order special tap all my other taps won’t work. Bought one tap that was supposed to work but didn’t had to do the research and found one that cut like butter.

 

[FTlatheworks]

I’ve been cutting 316 and 304. Been challenging but I would have to check what insert I bought. When I bought my tool holder the rep sent me the tool insert. But I’m going to rebuild my tail stock spindle with stainless MT3 I have broken more cut off inserts than my regular turning tool. Plus you need to go slower speed. And make sure machine is rigid tighten up any slack in machine. I tried tapping and had to order special tap all my other taps won’t work. Bought one tap that was supposed to work but didn’t had to do the research and found one that cut like butter.

I can turn, thread, tap, and bite just fine. It just will not run smooth cutting a taper. It has to be something about the way in using my tailstock taper attachment, or something in my process. I have successfully turned taper 304 and 303 spindles recently. Lately, all of them have been running like crap.

 

[FTlatheworks]

I’ve been cutting 316 and 304. Been challenging but I would have to check what insert I bought. When I bought my tool holder the rep sent me the tool insert. But I’m going to rebuild my tail stock spindle with stainless MT3 I have broken more cut off inserts than my regular turning tool. Plus you need to go slower speed. And make sure machine is rigid tighten up any slack in machine. I tried tapping and had to order special tap all my other taps won’t work. Bought one tap that was supposed to work but didn’t had to do the research and found one that cut like butter.

Good looking parts you made. Good job!