Total beginner needs help selecting PM lathe

I can't help you with the choice of machine, but make sure you are also budgeting for tooling, not just the machine. It is not unusual to spend as much or more than the cost of the machine on the stuff to use with the machine.

It would not be at all hard to spend $1000 just on quality basic measuring tools.
 
I have put the extra/required tools into the costs - $10,322.93 for the 1440 GT; $7,683.91 for the 1440 BV; $6,783.91 for the 1440 GS - end mills, etc., are on the tooling list for classes this summer, and the measuring tools are rolled into there too. I also am asking for start-up funds to handle forgotten/unrealized needs.
 
It is a tough decision to make, all the lathes are very good choices. I also see that the 1440GS is back in stock. There are some fairly extensive discussions on these lathe models in previous threads/postings which shed some light on the pros/cons. As parshal and GL pointed out the PM-1340GT should also be on the short list. I owned a 1340GT for about 6 years and sold it to a full time gunsmith, and have made many VFD systems for it and the 1440GT with the primary use was for gunsmiths. Both will easily turn accuracy to better than 0.001". I personally prefer Taiwanese made machines as opposed to mainland China at this price level because their quality and QC is better, very noticeable in the fit/finish. It is not all the bells and whistles, accessories that come with the machine but how well it works and the user's enjoyment of the machine. I feel the symbiosis is a bit better working with the 1340/1440GT models. You pay a premium of about 20-25% buying a Taiwanese machine, but you need to consider things like chucks that come with the machine and other components.

It does at the end of the day come down to the budget. Please be aware that the 2" spindle size is unique to the QMT lathes, I am not aware of any other manufactures lathes in the sub 10K range that offer this. I am also not aware of the standard D1-4 spindle of 1.59" being a limitation for gunsmiths unless you plan on doing very large caliber rifles. The 1340GT has a very short headstock, the 1440Gt is not much longer, which makes them both more attractive for shorter barrels. The 1340GT has a universal gearbox, but is an older open style Norton type so a bit more messy. One of my main concerns when purchasing the 1340GT was not having a foot brake, adding a VFD will give you 1-2 second braking times. My current lathe has a foot brake, but I only use it for locking the spindle for things like manual tapping. Under standard use or E-Stop I use the VFD braking which can be set to either 1 or 3 second braking. Threading, I use a proximity stop and 1 second braking, I thread at 250-450 RPM.

The 1440 BV and GS have gotten good reviews, but there have been a few QC issues. If the primary use is for gunsmithing, I probably would recommend the 3 phase 1340GT or 1440GT with a VFD. I have outlined a basic VFD install for either of these models, the VFD adds a lot of benefits in my experience in numerous installations that I have been involved with. A 3 phase motor will also give you a much better surface finish. I would estimate that of the gunsmiths buying these lathes 3/4 purchase the 1340GT and 1/4 get the 1440GT. Most add a VFD as opposed to RPC. A basic VFD install will run around $600 were you buy the components and do the install. QMT can provide some guidance documents. I have also posted some information, but I can also send you some additional information if you decide to go that route.

I think you will surprised at the end of the day how much goes into tooling/add ons for the lathe. It is easy to have 3-5K in chucks, tooling and measurement tools for the lathe, not including specialty tools for gunsmithing. Some of the measurement tooling you could pick up used either through local sales or eBay, but you need to know what you are looking for and be careful of a lot of fake measurement tools like Mitutoyo calipers. On chucks, I would suggest upgrading to the Chandox 3J Set-Tru scroll (6 or 8" sold by QMT), the Taiwanese 8" 4J independent direct mount (sold by QMT), and either a Bison/TMX 5C chcuck with collet set (sold by QMT and other vendors) or something like the Shar's ER-40 set-tru chuck and back plate for the particular lathe. You do need some form of collet holding system for small work under 1" and holding threaded rod, etc. Get a decent QCTP like the Aloris (sold by QMT) or the Dorian, tool holders buy 10-12 inexpensive ones from the vendor of you choice and save some $. You can quickly spend a lot more money when you get into boring bars, knurlers, and specialty tooling. QMT sells many items not listed on their website, best to ask if you are interested in something, or ask here and others can give their recommendations.

I would get a DRO, glass scales work fine, they all work well and are accurate. I have used the Easson DRO's on my last two lathes. You need a 1 micron slim line scale on the cross slide, this is typically the default for QMT but not other companies. The installation is not so difficult on a lathe, a good learning exercise to do your own installs but may need a mill for some of the brackets. It is important to know how to read and understand the dials and backlash on you machine and how this effects how much material is removed, the DRO helps minimize reading and counting errors. Screw up one barrel and that is the cost of the DRO. These are just tools to help you.

So back to the budget, I think you are a bit light on the numbers of what you think it is going to cost tooled up. A 1340GT tooled up as outlined with a VFD, you will probablly be in the 9-10K range.
 
I agree with everything Mark says. I have the 1340GT with VFD controls Mark designed and it's a terrific small lathe. The DRO is invaluable, as are quality chucks. And I have personally witnessed the surface finish issues Mark referenced on single-phase motor lathes in this class. A 3-phase motor with simple VFD setup powered by 220VAC single phase is definitely the way to go IMO. A Taiwan-made lathe is likely to give you better out-of-the-box performance and better accuracy and surface finishes longer term.

I got the impression that you think you're going to buy a machine and start selling product within a month. Maybe that's in the realm of possibility if you are already experienced on a lathe and know the in's and out's of tooling. If that isn't the case, I would recommend you ignore "what's in stock" and buy the lathe that best fits your needs. There is a learning curve here no matter which machine you buy.

The tooling, particularly if you go head first into the carbide insert deep end of the swimming pool, can be daunting and expensive unless you know what you don't need as much as what you do. I would recommend you think in terms of the lathe itself being 60 percent of what you need to spend, with the other 40 percent being chucks, tooling, QCTP, DRO, etc.
 
MKSJ & DAVIDPBEST - thanks for your feedback/input. Some narrowing thoughts from my side

The 2" spindle IS important due to .50 caliber barrels on dangerous game rifles, or even at some point .50 BMG work. This is why I had shyed away from the 1340GT.

Given the numerous incidents of support for the Taiwanese made lathes (from prior threads and this one) it seems like the 1440GT is what I simply need to pony up for.

I hear everyone warning me about not underestimating the add-on tooling, which leads me to think maybe I am missing something. Therefore, here is what I think I will get - then you gurus tell me if I am football bat, or headed in the right direction:

1440 GT SLP 1PH - $8,499
Wedge Tool Post Set - $180
2 Axis DRO - $500
DRO Install - $300
Carriage Stop - $100
Precision 4 Jaw - $400
1/8 - 5/8 Ultra Precision keyless chuck - $130
Master Turning/Boring set - $175
Heavy Duty Live Center - $40

Total - $10,322.93 + shipping & lift ramp

1. Are these the best choices for the money?

2. Are they mediocre and I could do better buying each one from MSC?

3. What critical to have items are not included?

4. Would it be foolish to NOT buy the taper attachment?


I do realize that I won't be turning product out the day I take delivery of the machine, but don't want to spend the first three months re-building/repairing/modifying the machine due to sub-par fitment and/or the mandatory modification of the machine with a VFD before I can begin using it - I think, if I am hearing you guys right, that the step up to the 1440GT should remove most of this?

Am I understanding this issue correctly? The machine will run fine by the standard gears, but the accepted practice or norm now is to modify it with a VFD. The VFD makes a single phase motor run like a 3 phase, smoothing out the revolution of the lathe to generate better finished work? Or am I supposed to get a 3 phase motor on the lathe and install the VFD so that the single phase power I have will be stepped to the 3 phase and get the better work quality? Sorry for being a bit dense here, but this topic is clear as mud to me.

Thanks, guys for the Big Chief tablet and nickel pencil - level of explaining things to me!
 
$800 for a DRO is steep, they are ~$200 on ebay if you can install them yourself. That said, a DRO on a lathe seems much less valuable than on a mill (in my experience).

For a carriage stop, that is another thing I find myself not using at all. Instead I bought one of these (plus some inexpensive indicators): https://allindustrial.com/edge-technology-51-000-lathe-carriage-indicator-holder/

If you're going to shop for higher quality things, I suspect your budget would need to near double.

The idea with a VFD is to buy a 3 phase motor, then use the VFD to convert 1-to-3 phase (and get all the additional advantages of a 3phase motor).
 
I know most of these guys are 3 phase fans, but I have a PM1440GT as does a friend of mine. We are not gunsmiths but the single phase motor that they sell works fine for us. So its not a must to swap it out. It probably is a better and smother running motor than the single phase option. After all three phase is what industry runs. So your call.

I have the taper attachment and it works good. I have used it twice. Its one of those things that you mostly don't use until one day there is a job for it. I got it while you can get still get one.

As far as the DRO I like their DRO, but I installed it myself and it is an easy install to save $300.

Also if you don't use a credit card and send him a check you can save a few bucks.

I hope this helps some.
 
Last edited:
Currently I have a 1340GT, which is fine for a hobbyist but on the light side( I bolted on beefed up legs to the stand adding 600 pounds to the weight and bolted the QCTP directly to the cross slide and removed the compound).Added VFD, DRO.Still vibrates at 600 to 750 RPM.
If I was using a lathe for any type of business use I would get the PM-1440TL. a different world in terms of heaviness, rigidity with a 10 1/4" bed width.,2.5" bore and low range of 36rpm. But....it costs more.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Z2V
The 1440GT is a good compromise between the 1340GT and 1440TL at 3X the price. The general use of a VFD is so you can generate the 3 staggered power legs to run a 3 phase motor from single phase power. Some information is posted here on the 1440GT basic VFD conversion:

Going with a 3 phase motor (as opposed to single phase) smooths the motor pulse which can show up as chatter marks in the surface finish, the degree to which this is an issue can vary significantly based on multiple factors. Even within the same model of lathe some people may have a problem while others may not.

There is a lot more tooling that goes with the lathe, also the general holder sets you will find are are quite lacking. You have not accounted for chucks and a number of other items that you will learn about over time.
 
Back
Top