- Joined
- Dec 3, 2013
- Messages
- 1,844
I have had my 1440GT for 3-1/2 years so if you have any specific question feel free to ask.
My lathe started with a single phase motor and worked perfectly fine. I later changed it to a 3 phase mostly for the soft start, forward & reverse jog and electronic breaking. The variable speed is nice to have although I find I hardly use it. It will be more expensive to to change later if you feel it is necessary. I will also add there are a few 1440GT owners who had factory 3 phase motors that didn't play nice with VFD's and ended up swapping out the factory 3 phase motor for a aftermarket 3 phase motor.
I strongly disagree a DRO has less value on a lathe. I cut my teeth machining before DRO's were common. I have zero interest in going back to counting turns, marking dials with grease pens and setting up dial indicators. I went with magnetic scales as they are less sensitive to contamination if you use flood oil or coolant. Glass scales can work fine but may need a little extra protection.
I build 1-2 PRS rifles a year plus a few silhouette rifles. I go back and forth between chambering though the head vs using the steady rest. Both methods can produce match grade results. I wouldn't hesitate to do a 50 BMG on a steady if I didn't have enough spindle bore.
I would consider a 4-jaw chuck with two piece jaws. That allows for the use of soft jaws if the need arises for those unusual parts that seem to show up from time to time.
I know several guys who only use 4-jaw chucks. I primarily use a set-tru type 3-jaw chuck except when chambering. A time saver when a part has to go in and out of the chuck several times.
The taper attachment only does up to 10" at a time. I feel it is just as easy to offset the tailstock for doing contour work. Most barrels can be had pre-contoured from the barrel maker. If I were going to do a lot of full length contouring I would get a hydraulic tracing system.
Other gunsmith relates lathe tools:
Additional wedge tool holders
Single point threading tools
Parting tool
Grooving tools
Bolt fixture ( can also be used for short pistol barrels)
High quality digital caliper
High quality 1" & 2" micrometers
1" travel Dial indicators
0-15-0 test indicator
0-4-0 test indicator(s) (Standard, long reach and back plunger)
Mag base indicator holder(s) (I prefer Noga holders)
Adjustable indicator stem (for tail stock alignment)
Depth micrometer 0"-6"
Reamer holder
High quality chuck for the tail stock (keyed and keyless)
An assortment of HSS tool blanks
6" or 8" bench grinder
Caliber specific indicator rods
My lathe started with a single phase motor and worked perfectly fine. I later changed it to a 3 phase mostly for the soft start, forward & reverse jog and electronic breaking. The variable speed is nice to have although I find I hardly use it. It will be more expensive to to change later if you feel it is necessary. I will also add there are a few 1440GT owners who had factory 3 phase motors that didn't play nice with VFD's and ended up swapping out the factory 3 phase motor for a aftermarket 3 phase motor.
I strongly disagree a DRO has less value on a lathe. I cut my teeth machining before DRO's were common. I have zero interest in going back to counting turns, marking dials with grease pens and setting up dial indicators. I went with magnetic scales as they are less sensitive to contamination if you use flood oil or coolant. Glass scales can work fine but may need a little extra protection.
I build 1-2 PRS rifles a year plus a few silhouette rifles. I go back and forth between chambering though the head vs using the steady rest. Both methods can produce match grade results. I wouldn't hesitate to do a 50 BMG on a steady if I didn't have enough spindle bore.
I would consider a 4-jaw chuck with two piece jaws. That allows for the use of soft jaws if the need arises for those unusual parts that seem to show up from time to time.
I know several guys who only use 4-jaw chucks. I primarily use a set-tru type 3-jaw chuck except when chambering. A time saver when a part has to go in and out of the chuck several times.
The taper attachment only does up to 10" at a time. I feel it is just as easy to offset the tailstock for doing contour work. Most barrels can be had pre-contoured from the barrel maker. If I were going to do a lot of full length contouring I would get a hydraulic tracing system.
Other gunsmith relates lathe tools:
Additional wedge tool holders
Single point threading tools
Parting tool
Grooving tools
Bolt fixture ( can also be used for short pistol barrels)
High quality digital caliper
High quality 1" & 2" micrometers
1" travel Dial indicators
0-15-0 test indicator
0-4-0 test indicator(s) (Standard, long reach and back plunger)
Mag base indicator holder(s) (I prefer Noga holders)
Adjustable indicator stem (for tail stock alignment)
Depth micrometer 0"-6"
Reamer holder
High quality chuck for the tail stock (keyed and keyless)
An assortment of HSS tool blanks
6" or 8" bench grinder
Caliber specific indicator rods
