Tips For Turning A36 Hot Rolled Steel

[chips&more]

Thanks for the info. The parts I am making will end up as drill jigs to insert into a bushing and give a reproducible line up for drilling for a locking dowel pin through the shoulder. I will be heat treating to add some durability so my question (since I don't have time right now to research).... are the 2L14, 1215, 1144, and the 1018, 1020, 1040/45 grades heat treatable?

For what you have listed. They can all be case hardened. But only the 1144 and 1040/45 can be heat treated. To make the bushings, I would try the 1144.

And on another note. I did try many years ago to heat treat low carbon steel like 1018 with I think a salt/soapy water solution. I heard about it and tried it for the fun of it and it did work. For what I do in my shop though, it was not a viable plan, just a trick to remember (huh that sounds easy enough!). It’s probably all over the internet now.

 

[Doubleeboy]

Welded with what process and filler?

It was stick, 6011

 

[Wreck™Wreck]

For decades I heard this about 12L14 and repeated it cause I had heard it. Then a 75 year old, life long machinist called BS when he heard me repeat it. Drug me over to his shop welded up 2 pieces of 12L14 flat stock, took them over to the press, 50T and the weld started to give about the same time as material. Its not allowed for certain jobs that need to be welded, but it can certainly be welded even by a hack like me.

cheers
michael

Agree, should have said that is doesn't weld well, have done it often in the past.

 

[mrjbinok]

with different sections of the same piece behaving differently (some hard, some soft; some machining easily while most is gummy).

I have notice this on the pieces that I have turned. I have however been able to get a decent finish with emery cloth on the last .001 or so.

I have turned a bit of it, as I wanted something I didn't mind using up for the first while on my first lathe. I hate using good material for practice, even though it means imperfect practice, but I just keep in mind that I'm practicing using the controls of the lathe, turning to a certain diameter, etc., not practicing getting ideal finish.

I guess I can't say that this is my first lathe since I've had a little HF lathe for several years and have cobbled many little pieces out of it. This lathe is the first lathe in front of me....... that I have really started to try to understand what I was doing though.

And then there were a couple things where what I was doing worked well enough that I wanted to make it look good. I found that a vertical sheer bit (HSS ground very differently from other types; search on here and YouTube for plenty of examples, including how to grind it) cleans it up rather well. But you're only going to take off up to ~0.001" at a time with that tool, and it is impractical to use it right up to a shoulder. But it is a useful option to keep in mind.

I really do appreciate all the good info given here. I asked for tips and suggestions and I got a whole lot more that I can file away for future reference. I had come up with my own version of the "vertical sheer" that you suggested.... It worked somewhat, but I think I was trying to push it a bit too hard and the cutting edge didn't last long. I didn't know what it was called, but decided to try the tool shape to see what it would do. I'll do some research now and see if I can fine tune it for other projects.

 

[intjonmiller]

Either the geometry was wrong, you were cutting too deep, you were feeding too fast, or you were using it on the mill scale. Those usually hold an edge very well. As my father always told me while teaching me to shoot free-throws, "Never end on a miss." It's a very cool and useful bit geometry, so don't let your experience with it become a lasting impression.

 

[mrjbinok]

I think I was trying to push too fast and too deep. I did come across this video on youtube where the guy is using the VS for exactly what I am trying to do with the Hot Rolled stock. I picked up my QCTP this morning from my brother (he has the mill to make the TeeNut to fit) so I plan to do the VS first... using the new tool post. I think I am close on the geometry, but I'll touch it up a bit before I start so that I know I have a good cutting edge.

 

[Wreck™Wreck]

I think I was trying to push too fast and too deep. I did come across this video on youtube where the guy is using the VS for exactly what I am trying to do with the Hot Rolled stock. I picked up my QCTP this morning from my brother (he has the mill to make the TeeNut to fit) so I plan to do the VS first... using the new tool post. I think I am close on the geometry, but I'll touch it up a bit before I start so that I know I have a good cutting edge.

What is the "VS"?

 

[Tony Wells]

Thinking he is talking about that vertical shear tool people go on about. Never used one myself.

 

[mrjbinok]

Yes my reference to VS is for the "Vertical Sheer". Sometimes I look for abbreviations 'cause I'm lazy when it comes to typing! I guess that is a carry over from years of computer programming. Sorry for the confusion.

 

[sanddan]

For decades I heard this about 12L14 and repeated it cause I had heard it. Then a 75 year old, life long machinist called BS when he heard me repeat it. Drug me over to his shop welded up 2 pieces of 12L14 flat stock, took them over to the press, 50T and the weld started to give about the same time as material. Its not allowed for certain jobs that need to be welded, but it can certainly be welded even by a hack like me.

cheers
michael

Not a good idea to weld something that has lead in it. The smoke coming off the weld could be somewhat toxic. I'd use other materials if I was going to weld them.