Tim's 3D Printer Project

Thanks for all the pointers on setting up my printer and the calibration stuff.

I installed the light switch extension today. I call it a success even though it's not perfect. The one thing I overlooked in my design was the beveled corners on the outside of the original box. Other than that, and the corner lifting on the print, it works great.

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@WobblyHand There are some general shrinkage parameters based on different materials which will get you in the ballpark. Picking a filament type and brand and then doing some test prints, such as small cubes, and then measuring them would be a viable route. There are most likely are some test prints available on www.thingiverse.com that will be of great help to you.
As you well know, the tolerances of these printers are very different than machining a part. What level of precision are you looking for when you say "slightly off?"

I downloaded and printed out a 20mm cube from thingiverse yesterday. Both the X and Y measure 20mm the Z measure 20.27mm. A little off on the Z but not too bad for what I'm printing anyway.
 
Hey Tim (@Just for fun ). That box extension is exactly the sort of projects that the 3D printer comes in handy for.
When the idiot (me) installed the electrical box for our Schluter in-floor heat I mounted it at the same height as a light switch. The screen was very hard to read straight on at that height so I made an angled extension. Works great.
 

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My 3-D printer operates continuously in the shop and produces excellent printing quality. It's currently in its low 40s and running flawlessly without additional heat. In all but the coldest months, it can be used without heating the shop because it has an enclosure. I need to turn on the electric heaters in my shop in December and January when the outside temperature falls below freezing to get good results.
 
In the shop, my 3-D printer runs continuously and produces prints of excellent quality. I occasionally use print solutions when I encounter printing issues. It currently runs perfectly without additional heat and is in the low 40s. It is enclosed and can be used without heating the shop during all but the coldest months. To achieve satisfactory results, I must activate the electric heaters in my shop in December and January when the outside temperature drops below freezing.
 
I've got my printer in an enclosure now. I still need to use a little heater to warm it up enough to get it to start. Once it is warm enough to start it stays warm enough to turn out good prints.

Just doing a test fit. I was going to cut down the bottom board, but I think I will keep just like it is.

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Doing a test print without the bottom board. And one photo with the shop lights turned off.

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And finely one the bottom board, I'm still not sure if I'm done. I may move the PSU to the outside.

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And for kicks and grins I used my Flame Boss smoker control to monitor the inside temperature of the enclosure. You can see that the Pit temperature is 77°, I think the shop was around 50°.

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What type of an enclosure is that Tim?
Looks pretty cool.
 
It's a design I got off of the Prusa web site.

I got the pre-cut plexiglass from Amazon.

The table I got from Ikea.



 
It really has nothing to do with my printer, but I had my first failed print today, actually about four failed prints and a plugged nozzle before I got it working, using PETG. There are four parts to the project I printed two of them yesterday with no problems. Started the second set of prints and they failed like four times in a row. I used some hair spray (not what was recommended because the store didn't have that brand) it didn't help, finely tried the glue stick and it worked great.


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