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Tig Welder

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markba633csi

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#61
As RJ said, you could conceivably cut and rejoin the windings to get the full power of the transformer- here is a markup of your schematic showing the basic idea. Splitting the winding and putting the two halves in parallel. Forgive my sloppy picture editing attempt lol. Imagine that the two windings are the same number of turns (which they probably are already) so you just have to find the point on the winding where the fan connects and make the cut, then reconnect using solder and big copper lugs. Need a big soldering iron or torch, that wire is fat.
Mark S.
 

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zackdillon

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#64
Hello!
I have reciently acquired the same 460v econotig that's discussed in this thread.
I'm going to follow these footsteps and re-wire for the 230v my garage has.
Before I do I'd like to know how your rewired econotig performs.
Did the rewire drastically reduce it's duty cycle?
Any pitfalls I should watch for?
I've used a tig once in highschool and probably won't know if my econotig is functioning correctly (at first).
Can't wait to burn some holes!
 

sk1nner

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#65
Unfortunately I haven't had much shop time to mess with the tig. I don't see why it would alter the duty cycle any. The few times I have used it, it did seem to work well. I would recommend upgrading the power cord for the welder (something I still need to do). It seems to be a regular 220v welder after the changes are made. Good luck, be careful to not mis-wire the transformer!
 

markba633csi

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#66
Zack: sk1nner has done this on his machine and says it works well- check page 2 of this thread it's like my markup drawing above. There are two 230v coils in series in the 460 volt unit, you just separate the windings at the fan connection point and connect them in parallel and in phase. Need about a 60 amp service to feed it. Use care.
Mark S.
 

zackdillon

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#67
Great!
Thanks guys!
I wired a 50 amp plug for my arc welder last summer. It (unfortunately) didn't occur to me i would ever need more than 50a.
I ran a 200a service into my garage so I'll run a bigger line if need be.
Think I'll try it on the 50. Worse case is I trip the breaker..... rite?
The drawings are very helpful, thanks!
I need to pick up Argon, tungston and rod tomorrow, then I get to learn how to use this tool. Definitely MY idea of a good time!
 

FOMOGO

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#68
I would think that for 90% of what you will ever do 50 amp should be just fine. I have a 220v single phase, 300 amp out machine that calls for 100 amps in and works just fine on a 50 amp circuit for most jobs. It will be getting the full 100 amps in the new shop. Mike
 

zackdillon

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#69
Sucess!
It seems to operate correctly.

The unit didn't come with a foot operated remote, it came with a hand operated dial and on/off remote box.
20170317_225026.jpg
After using this setup for a few minutes it became obvious to me the wisdom of having a foot switch.
I think I'll make a foot operated on/off switch that'll plug into this box.
I remember my dad's "55" chevy dumptruck had a foot operated starter switch. Or maybe use that same style switch that older cars had for hi/low beams.
Anyone have ideas?
Thanks.
 

brino

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#70
I remember my dad's "55" chevy dumptruck had a foot operated starter switch. Or maybe use that same style switch that older cars had for hi/low beams. Anyone have ideas?
Hi Zack,

The two examples you mention are just simple switches with contacts.
The TIG pedal requires a variable resistor (aka potentiometer, "pot", rheostat) to vary a small voltage to the machines control port that then varies the welder output current.

My Everlast TIG pedal uses a rack that has an arc that mates with a small spur gear on the pot's shaft. Something like that should be build-able.

Good luck, and please let us know what you come up with!

-brino
 

Rustrp

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#71
Unfortunately no. It says 460 single phase 33 amps
When the machine was ordered the option of selecting the input power source was 220 0r 440. The circuit breaker amperage rating to operate the machine at 100% duty is 33 amps or 60 amps if your source was 220. Your option would be a buck/boost transformer. The 33 amp input is required for the stick (SMAW) process or the TIG process if you were welding heavy aluminum. You could get by with a transformer with lower amperage ratings if you TIG only.

PS. I just saw the date on this thread so using the machine as TIG only with the diagram shown by MozamPete works for you. How is the maching working?
 
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zackdillon

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#72
So far its working great. Im learning how to tig, but now I can run a bead without too much fuss.
The machine seems to do fine with 50a 230v. I bet it'll give me trouble when I try thick aluminium...... one way to find out rite?

Bruno, my plan is to wire a on/off foot switch and use the remote I have for amperage control. Not ideal, I know but we'll see.
It's frusterating (at first) fliping the switch when I'm ready to draw an ark with gloves on torch in one hand, filler rod in the other AND shake my head to drop my helmet into place without accidentally touching my electrode to the work piece. Lol! About the third time I had to clean and re-sharpen my tungsten I was beginning to get irritated.
I could go buy a foot pedal, but thats no fun! My thought is to "move the on-off switch in the remote to the floor using an automotive starter or similar switch where i can toggle it with my foot, while keeping the control dial on the bench.
A helmet with auto darkening is in my near future too.
THANKS! For all the help!
 

zackdillon

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#73
When the machine was ordered the option of selecting the input power source was 220 0r 440. The circuit breaker amperage rating to operate the machine at 100% duty is 33 amps or 60 amps if your source was 220. Your option would be a buck/boost transformer. The 33 amp input is required for the stick (SMAW) process or the TIG process if you were welding heavy aluminum. You could get by with a transformer with lower amperage ratings if you TIG only.

PS. I just saw the date on this thread so using the machine as TIG only with the diagram shown by MozamPete works for you. How is the maching working?
Interestingly, This machine came from Miller wired for 460v single phase. 33amp.
 

British Steel

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#74
Zackdillon wrote:

Bruno, my plan is to wire a on/off foot switch and use the remote I have for amperage control. Not ideal, I know but we'll see.
It's frusterating (at first) fliping the switch when I'm ready to draw an ark with gloves on torch in one hand, filler rod in the other AND shake my head to drop my helmet into place without accidentally touching my electrode to the work piece. Lol! About the third time I had to clean and re-sharpen my tungsten I was beginning to get irritated.
I could go buy a foot pedal, but thats no fun!
_________

Keep an eye open for a broken guitarist's wah-wah or volume pedal, strip out the board and there's a nice rack and pinion waiting for you to swap out the potentiometer - you can also fit a microswitch to turn the arc on when you rock it forward pretty easily!
______________
A helmet with auto darkening is in my near future too.
THANKS! For all the help
______________
Best and fastest improvement I ever made to my welding, even a cheap auto is worth having! (Mine was intercepted before it went into the plastics bin at my local recycling centre, cracks patched with "bumper repair" plastic filler - you don't get cheaper than that :) )

Dave H. (the other one)
 

Rustrp

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#75
I bet it'll give me trouble when I try thick aluminium...... one way to find out rite?
Take the load off the machine and just preheat any aluminum over .125". Just use a propane torch or a neutral oxy/acety flame.

I'm not sure what you mean by wiring in a foot pedal for remote amperage control. The machine is wired for a foot pedal and $300 for a new pedal would be money well spent to improve your welding , but I think you could get something for half that or less if you check out ebay.
 
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