The ACRA has landed

That's awesome, Mike, I'm really happy for you. If I had the funds, I'd have to think about what I'd buy without my wife Divorcing me!!! Lol
 
I'm hoping Tom has inventory, given the tensions in Taiwan, but like you said, Hong Kong is still up, and running.
 
I have looked at the alignment pin to try and remove it, but it must be behind the quill collar. Looks like it needs a spanner.
I used ancient technology and have it on the ground now too.
 
I have looked at the alignment pin to try and remove it, but it must be behind the quill collar. Looks like it needs a spanner.
I used ancient technology and have it on the ground now too.

I think many of us would like to see just how you did that? Many a hobby machinist hesitate in going big because of the perceived lack of means to move large equipment.

Got any pics of the journey from pallet to floor?


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I was too stressed to take pictures, but when we sawzalled the pallet to shorten it I was lucky enough to have a small lip of the base hanging out over what was left of the pallet. I had a 1" x 5" x 4' steel bar that I was able to take pressure off of the heave front with a floor jack, and the back of the ram has a real thick pad that I put a 4 x 4 post straight up on another floor jack. I levitated it in place, thoroughly checked for any balance issues, and security of the placements for lifting. As I slid the pallet out I cribbed the corners with stacks of wood planks. Then the old tire spoons came out with a fulcrum, and rubber pad, then took enough weight off of the front, then the back pulling a plank out from each corner till it got on the ground. It was in place, but crooked, so I walked it with the spoons till it was strait. It was very nerve racking, but it was controlled, and never felt like it was going to go over. They built pyramids, Easter Island statues, and Stonehenge with this technology, and it worked. Not saying this is for everybody, and I'm open for criticism, so if I was wrong, it will be noted for searchers.
 
It was very nerve racking, but it was controlled, and never felt like it was going to go over. They built pyramids, Easter Island statues, and Stonehenge with this technology, and it worked. Not saying this is for everybody, and I'm open for criticism, so if I was wrong, it will be noted for searchers.
Well, hopefully you are open to praise! Nice job! I expected an ancient approach and we got one!
 
I was too stressed to take pictures, but when we sawzalled the pallet to shorten it I was lucky enough to have a small lip of the base hanging out over what was left of the pallet. I had a 1" x 5" x 4' steel bar that I was able to take pressure off of the heave front with a floor jack, and the back of the ram has a real thick pad that I put a 4 x 4 post straight up on another floor jack. I levitated it in place, thoroughly checked for any balance issues, and security of the placements for lifting. As I slid the pallet out I cribbed the corners with stacks of wood planks. Then the old tire spoons came out with a fulcrum, and rubber pad, then took enough weight off of the front, then the back pulling a plank out from each corner till it got on the ground. It was in place, but crooked, so I walked it with the spoons till it was strait. It was very nerve racking, but it was controlled, and never felt like it was going to go over. They built pyramids, Easter Island statues, and Stonehenge with this technology, and it worked. Not saying this is for everybody, and I'm open for criticism, so if I was wrong, it will be noted for searchers.
As long as the machine made it to the floor without being damaged is OK in my book. I can't wait to see what you make on your Acra.
 
If I recall the bottom ring of the quill unthreads manually, I did not need a spanner. There is a set screw and behind that is the guide pin which unscrews. I recommend removing it, as mine almost sheared off. I had an issue that on some of my arbors they were not threaded deep enough so the draw bar would bottom out and then twist the arbor against the guide pin. If the pin shears off it can make a mess internally. When ejecting arbors the quill must be fully up and locked, sometimes I put it in back gear to prevent it from spinning. When you release the back gear back to hi, always manually turn the spindle until you hear the shift lever snap completely up. There are two crown gears that need to mesh together for high gear.

Arbors should be clean on the outside, free of oil but I do put a few drops on threads, usually recommend removing the arbor at the end day because of thermal changes can make it more difficult to eject.
 
On most import Bridgeport clones the spindle nose cap has left hand threads
 

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